The Dressing Lab. "Bespoke Line"

Allow me to introduce Dressing Labo's premium range, the "Bespoke Line".

Bespoke represents the epitome and the origin of custom-made, offering that special piece you'd want to don for momentous occasions.

Whether it's clothing or shoes, "Bespoke" reigns supreme in the realm of custom-made. Personally, my initial enticement to enter this world of fashion was due to my admiration for bespoke tailors. Becoming an apprentice to a tailor and undergoing training with little sleep was an arduous journey that was starkly different from what I had imagined. However, the suit that I tailored myself for my wedding - with my mentor drafting the pattern and my sewing it throughout the night to finish it just in time on the morning of the wedding day (laughs) - remains a special piece that I wear on the most precious occasions.

Bespoke, with its sentimental value, is something that I believe we all mutually acknowledge to be undoubtedly exceptional. However, on the other hand, you might think, "I understand it's good, but isn't it too expensive and a bit extravagant for everyday use?" or "I do want clothes that fit me well, but maybe I don't need to go as far as bespoke. Made-to-measure (MTM) is sufficient." or "I'm not familiar with bespoke and it somehow feels intimidating." I reckon these opinions are also genuine concerns for many.

Since we're offering this at Dressing Labo, we wanted to ensure that the quality is distinctively higher than that of the already high-quality made-to-measure (MTM), while also making the Bespoke experience more accessible in terms of price, lead time, and the ambiance of the ordering process. It is with the desire for more people to enjoy and feel the allure of bespoke that we launched Dressing Labo's Bespoke Line.

Features of TDL Bespoke Line

A Definitive House Style, Owing to the Versatility of Bespoke

Being bespoke, we can tailor to any customer request, and in a sense, anything is possible. However, we have intentionally established a House Style. Among the countless variations of bespoke that could be available at a hundred different stores, we believe that choosing our store signifies an interest in our distinctive approach. As such, we commit to delivering the finest finish and will offer a bespoke experience that is thoroughly representative of our brand's style.

Details of TDL Bespoke Line

First, let me explain the essence of our House Style using the jacket and trousers (suit), which form the core of our Bespoke Line.

While our MTM range embodies a lightness, softness, and rounded form that transcends factory-made, the Bespoke Line further elevates these aspects. There are numerous highlights, making it challenging to decide which to present, but I will introduce a few of the main points.

Bespoke Jacket

Smoothly Curved Gorge Line

Bespoke tailoring has enabled us to realize the ideal gorge line (the seam where the collar meets the lapel). This curve is quintessential to bespoke. Our proposition features a gorge line that starts high and takes a sharp, deep curve, parallel to the shoulder line when worn. It embodies a perfect balance of classic styling with a refined contemporary air. The lapels are wide, and the collar is generously sized, contributing to a stately demeanor. The rise from the shoulder to the neck, as the collar seamlessly adheres, showcases the true quality of bespoke tailoring. The beautifully three-dimensional curve of the collar, shaped by ironing, is also exquisite.

Natural and Deliberately Generous Shoulder Line

We have also put great emphasis on the shoulder line. All of Dressing Labo's jackets feature a natural shoulder line with no padding. The Bespoke Line follows this aesthetic, with a construction that could not be achieved in factory-made garments.

We deliberately tailor the shoulder width to be 1cm to 2cm larger than that of factory-made MTM. This creates a relaxed and sophisticated ambiance, reminiscent of the tailoring seen in Naples and Florence, Italy.

It's not just about making the shoulders wider. Typically, if the shoulders are made wider, the armhole tends to move away from the body, resulting in a jacket that is restrictive in movement. However, with the Bespoke Line, you don't have to worry about that. By making the shoulders wider while curving and cutting the armhole closer to the underarm, we achieve a bespoke fitting that features broad shoulders, yet fitted armholes. Personally, I believe the curved seam from the shoulder to the underarm, and the ample range of motion provided by the sleeves, are the highlights unique to bespoke tailoring.

Front Darts Extending Through to the Hem

As a flavor unique to bespoke, we adopted classic front darts that extend all the way through to the hem. Front darts are seams located around the waist of the jacket, playing a role in shaping the front. Typically, including in our MTM, these front darts would end above the waist pockets, but a distinguishing feature of ours is that they deliberately extend through to the hem. This design, commonly seen in classic two-piece jackets, helps in fitting around the hips. Beyond that, it evokes an ambiance reminiscent of timeless Italian tailoring, which I find particularly alluring.

You can choose to have pocket flaps or not, but going without flaps is in keeping with the classic style. Buttonholes, stitches, and bar tacks - all are hand-sewn. The warmth and presence that comes with this handwork cannot be replicated by machine. For this particular suit, I requested that the stitching be accentuated, so you can see the prominence of each stitch, and feel the texture when you touch it. Of course, you can opt to have the stitching more subtle or even more emphasized. Being able to tailor these details to your personal preference is one of the delights of the Bespoke Line.

A Slightly Relaxed Front Cut

While the front of the jacket typically falls straight, if it's too structured, it can tend to give off a stiff and heavy impression. In Dressing Lab's Bespoke Line, we opt for a front cut with deep curves that gently opens up by extending the front panels, lending the jacket a slightly more relaxed and less formal demeanor.

With a generous and soft shoulder line, three-dimensional draping from the chest to the waist, and a slightly relaxed front cut, the synergy of these elements culminates in a bespoke jacket that exudes quality while maintaining a sophisticated ease.

Bespoke Trousers

When you think of bespoke trousers, high waists and deep pleats might come to mind, often associated with a classic taste. However, our bespoke trousers at Dressing Lab are crafted with a balance, incorporating bespoke-specific details without going overboard. They have a rise that is neither too low nor too high, a moderate amount of pleats, a curved waistband that fits snugly around the hips, and a perfect hip fit that is lifted yet without any constriction. At first glance, the trousers may seem understated, but once worn, we believe you will be moved by the quintessential bespoke fit.

The aforementioned design constitutes our house style, but being bespoke, we are more than happy to accommodate any specific requests, including high-back trousers, Gurkha pants, or even cargo pants. If you haven't found trousers with a design you love in ready-to-wear or MTM options, we highly encourage you to consider our bespoke trousers.

For this particular order, I opted for double pleats (outward-facing), a button fly instead of a zipper, and eliminated belt loops in favor of side adjusters. However, these elements can be customized to your preference. The bespoke trousers are incredibly soft and lightweight. Moreover, through meticulous ironwork, they are tailored to have an S-curve that follows the shape of the leg, which not only ensures a comfortable fit but also a visually stunning finish. Personally, I am keen on gradually adding more bespoke trousers to my wardrobe over time.

Reasons to Recommend the Bespoke Line

I believe you have grasped the quality of our bespoke offerings, but there may still be points of concern when considering placing an order. I will address these points in a Q&A format.

Q Isn't bespoke tailoring expensive?

A It is not inexpensive by any means. However, as mentioned earlier, Dressing Lab's bespoke line is intentionally priced quite reasonably relative to the quality offered, allowing customers to enjoy bespoke tailoring more casually. Bespoke tailoring is labor-intensive and requires skilled craftsmen, which means that in order to sustain their livelihood, the pricing has to be considerably high. Dressing Lab's bespoke line benefits from the tailoring expertise of Mr. Kojima, the ace tailor at our workshop, and is fully backed by the tailor shop, ensuring the quality of a fully handmade piece with pricing closer to factory orders, and stable delivery times. This allows our customers to experience high-quality bespoke tailoring more accessibly and casually.

Q Is bespoke tailoring a luxury?

A Considering the lifespan of the garments, it is not a luxury at all. This holds true for MTM (Made to Measure) as well. At our store, we aim to offer fabrics and fittings that are optimal for the customer's wear situations, ensuring longevity in usage.
Furthermore, bespoke tailoring allows for more time to be invested in ironwork compared to MTM, making it possible to include a greater amount of seam allowance (extra fabric along the seam) which is challenging to achieve with MTM. This allows for ample adjustments in the event of significant changes in body shape or preferences.
Consequently, you can cherish and wear the garments for 10, 20 years or even more. When you order bespoke tailoring, we make fabric and fitting recommendations with a long-term view in mind, so please be assured. We believe that you will feel deeply satisfied every time you wear the garment, thinking, "I'm so glad I ordered this outfit through bespoke tailoring back then!" even several years after the order.

Q I am satisfied with the comfort of MTM, isn't it unnecessary to go for bespoke?

A This is, honestly, a challenging point to explain. In terms of comfort, bespoke tailoring incorporates numerous refinements such as hand-sewn details, front shoulder shaping in jackets, and the S-curve in trousers - all of which are characteristics of handmade garments, making them more comfortable than MTM. However, our MTM line has a very high level of quality and customer satisfaction, and being factory-made with an aim to match the quality of bespoke, MTM is so well-crafted that it is difficult to recommend bespoke solely based on the difference in comfort. It is best to understand that bespoke and MTM offer different kinds of excellence.
To make an analogy with Italian cuisine, normally one might be quite content with a salad, pasta, and a glass of wine, but occasionally, there is a desire to indulge in a full course meal, savoring everything from the appetizer to pasta, the main course, and dessert over a leisurely period of time. I believe bespoke tailoring is akin to this full course meal. We take our time, engaging in detailed conversations with the customer, involving both the tailor and myself, to understand and materialize the customer's wishes. During the two fittings, these wishes are given shape and refined further. Though it is a time-consuming and intricate process, I can assure you that this time will be filled with joy and a rich, fulfilling experience. These pleasant memories will be recalled each time you put on the garment. There aren't many garments that offer such richness. Just as having a full course meal every day might become tiresome, it's not necessary to always opt for bespoke. However, even if it's just once a year, we would be honored to craft that perfect piece of clothing for you through our bespoke service.
Additionally, the "finish and ambiance" of the garment differs between MTM and bespoke. MTM, being factory-made, is characterized by an extremely sharp and clean finish. In contrast, bespoke features meticulous stitching unique to Japanese craftsmen, with extensive use of hand-sewing in elements such as stitches, buttonholes, lapel joins, and so on. The tension of the stitches in hand-sewing is adjusted by the artisan, allowing more give compared to machine stitching. This results in a finish that is rich in character and warmth. The sharpness of MTM versus the flavorful and soft finish of bespoke highlights the different kinds of appeal each offers.
Incidentally, according to the craftsmen, they find it very enjoyable to change the thread of the stitches to match the fabric ordered. For my order, I chose a relatively fine fabric called Green Hills by Drapers, so the stitches are delicate with a fine thread. However, if the fabric is slightly thicker, they use a thicker thread for the stitches so it doesn't get overshadowed by the fabric. This aspect adds to the enjoyment of bespoke tailoring.

Q I'm told with bespoke I can customize as I like, but I'm troubled because I have no specific image in mind.

A This concern is also common with MTM (Made to Measure). When asked, "What do you have in mind?", it is great if you have a clear image or can articulate your preferences, but sometimes the image is vague or it is difficult to put into words.

But, rest assured. At Dressing Lab, we have samples of suits, jackets, and coats tailored in our house style from our bespoke line, which you can look at to get an idea. Based on these samples, you can tell us if you want certain aspects to be a certain way. Furthermore, Mr. Kojima, the craftsman, and I will work closely with you to identify your preferences, and thoughtfully propose a style that is perfect for you to wear for 10 to 20 years or even longer. Whether you have a precise idea of what you want, or you have a vague image and just want to experience bespoke tailoring, please come in with the confidence that you are in good hands.

Q Is bespoke only for suits? Since it's fully custom, can anything be made?

A While bespoke tailoring allows for a wide range of customizations compared to MTM (Made to Measure), the adage "what one likes, one will do well" holds true. Craftsmen tend to excel in creating items they are passionate about, resulting in a finish that exceeds expectations. Our bespoke line at Dressing Lab primarily includes the following items:

Suits
Jackets
Trousers
Vests
Various coats (Chesterfield, Stand Collar, Raglan, Duffle, Pea Coat)

Our craftsman, Mr. Kojima, is not only exceptional in tailoring suits and jackets but has a background of passionately creating duffle coats and pea coats as a hobby, drawing on his love and knowledge of vintage clothing. When discussing bespoke options with him, he enthusiastically mentions with a beaming smile, "I excel at making coats!" Therefore, when you request a custom coat, you can expect an outstanding finish. Duffle coats and pea coats, in particular, are items worth opting for in bespoke as they are challenging to offer in MTM. These coats, while adhering to classic detailing, incorporate tailored techniques throughout and could almost be referred to as "Dress Duffles". They are not only great for everyday wear but also pair perfectly with suit styles.

Q Can I place a bespoke order at any time?

A At Dressing Lab, we hold bespoke order events with craftsman Mr. Kojima about once every 2-3 months. After placing an order, you will have a fitting session for the basted garment during the next ordering event. During the subsequent event, there will be a fitting session for the semi-finished garment, after which the piece will be finalized. We will announce the schedule for the ordering events on our website and Facebook, but if you have a specific preference, we can also notify you preferentially as soon as the dates are set. Please feel free to consult us about this.
While craftsman Mr. Kojima will handle the fittings for the basted and semi-finished garments, I, Hayashi, am available to take care of the initial consultation and measurements. It would be our pleasure if you could make an appointment through the reservation form on our website.

How do you find the bespoke line at Dressing Lab? Without meaning to toot our own horn, we take pride in offering bespoke orders that strike an excellent balance in quality, delivery time, and price. Whether you're thinking, "I want to casually order a bespoke suit with a soft Italian ambiance," or "I want to experience a bespoke suit but don't know where to place an order," or even "I want to custom-order a casual coat, but can't find a place that offers this service," please feel free to consult with Dressing Lab for any of your desires.

In our store, we consistently display bespoke garments tailored by Mr. Kojima, including pieces I have ordered myself. Whether you want to try on a bespoke jacket or hear more about our bespoke services, you are always welcome to visit us. We eagerly await your appointments and inquiries.