The Dressing Lab. "Bespoke Line"

I would like to introduce The Dressing Lab.'s premium range, the "Bespoke Line."

Bespoke is both the origin and the highest form of custom-made clothing. It is for a truly special piece that you will want to wear on important occasions.

Whether we are talking about clothing or shoes, bespoke can be considered the highest form of custom-made work. For me personally, one of the reasons I was first drawn into the world of menswear was my admiration for bespoke tailors. I became an apprentice to a tailor, and the training, often with very little sleep, was far more demanding than I had imagined. Even so, the suit I made for my own wedding remains very special to me. My mentor drafted the pattern, and I stayed up through the night sewing it so that it would just be finished by the morning of the wedding day. It is still a piece I wear on truly important occasions.

Bespoke has that kind of emotional value, and I think many people would agree that it is something very special. At the same time, you may also feel, "I understand that bespoke is wonderful, but is it too expensive or too extravagant for everyday use?" or "I want clothes that fit me well, but perhaps made-to-measure is enough for me," or even "I am not familiar with bespoke, so it feels a little intimidating." I think these are very natural and honest concerns.

Because we are offering bespoke at The Dressing Lab., we wanted it to be clearly different from our already high-quality made-to-measure line, while also making the bespoke experience more approachable in terms of price, lead time, and the atmosphere of the ordering process. With the hope that more customers can enjoy and experience the appeal of bespoke, we launched The Dressing Lab.'s Bespoke Line.

Features of TDL Bespoke Line

A Clear House Style, Made Possible by the Freedom of Bespoke

Because it is bespoke, we can respond to many different requests, and in one sense, many things are possible. However, we have intentionally created our own house style. Among the many possible forms of bespoke tailoring, I believe that choosing The Dressing Lab. means that you are interested in our particular taste and approach. For that reason, we aim to offer the best possible finish while giving you a bespoke experience that clearly expresses our style.

Details of TDL Bespoke Line

First, let me explain the essence of our house style through the jacket and trousers, which form the core of our Bespoke Line.

Our made-to-measure range already offers a light, soft, and rounded form that goes beyond the usual image of factory-made clothing. The Bespoke Line takes these qualities even further. There are many highlights, so it is difficult to choose only a few, but I would like to introduce some of the main points.

Bespoke Jacket

Smoothly Curved Gorge Line

With bespoke tailoring, we are able to create the ideal gorge line, which is the seam where the collar meets the lapel. This curve is one of the beautiful qualities of bespoke. Our proposed style features a gorge line that starts high and curves deeply and sharply, running in harmony with the shoulder line when worn. It creates a good balance between classic elegance and a refined, contemporary feel. The lapels are wide, and the collar is generously sized, giving the jacket a dignified appearance. The way the collar rises from the shoulder and sits naturally around the neck also shows the true quality of bespoke tailoring. The three-dimensional curve of the collar, shaped carefully through ironwork, is one of the details I especially like.

Natural and Deliberately Generous Shoulder Line

We also place great importance on the shoulder line. All of The Dressing Lab.'s jackets feature a natural shoulder line without padding. The Bespoke Line follows this same aesthetic, but with a construction that cannot easily be achieved in factory-made garments.

We intentionally make the shoulder width about 1 cm to 2 cm wider than our factory-made made-to-measure jackets. This creates a relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere, reminiscent of tailoring seen in Naples and Florence.

However, it is not simply a matter of making the shoulders wider. In general, if the shoulders are made wider, the armholes can move away from the body, making the jacket harder to move in. With the Bespoke Line, this is not a concern. By giving the shoulders a little more width while curving and cutting the armholes closer to the underarm, we can create a bespoke fit with generous shoulders and well-fitted armholes. Personally, I feel that the curved line from the shoulder to the underarm, together with the ease of movement in the sleeves, is one of the highlights that only bespoke can offer.

Front Darts Extending Through to the Hem

As a detail unique to bespoke, we have adopted classic front darts that extend all the way down to the hem. Front darts are seams around the waist area of the jacket, and they help shape the front body. Usually, including in our made-to-measure line, these darts stop above the waist pockets. In our Bespoke Line, however, they intentionally continue to the hem. This detail is often seen in classic two-piece jackets and helps the jacket fit beautifully around the hips. More than that, it gives the jacket a feeling reminiscent of timeless Italian tailoring, which I find very attractive.

You can choose whether or not to have pocket flaps, but leaving the pockets without flaps suits this classic style very well. Buttonholes, stitching, and bar tacks are all sewn by hand. The warmth and presence created by this handwork cannot be reproduced by machine. For this particular suit, I asked for the stitching to be slightly more visible, so you can see each stitch clearly and feel the texture when you touch it. Of course, the stitching can also be made more subtle or more pronounced according to your preference. Being able to adjust these details to your own taste is one of the pleasures of the Bespoke Line.

A Slightly Relaxed Front Cut

The front edge of a jacket often falls rather straight, but if it is too strict, the jacket can look stiff and heavy. In The Dressing Lab.'s Bespoke Line, we use a front cut with a deep, gentle curve by extending the front panels. This gives the jacket a slightly more relaxed and less formal expression.

Together with the generous and soft shoulder line, the three-dimensional drape from the chest to the waist, and the slightly relaxed front cut, these elements create a bespoke jacket with both quality and ease.

Bespoke Trousers

When you think of bespoke trousers, high waists and deep pleats may come to mind, often with a very classic impression. However, our bespoke trousers at The Dressing Lab. are designed with balance in mind, incorporating bespoke-specific details without making them feel excessive. They have a rise that is neither too low nor too high, a moderate amount of pleats, a curved waistband that fits neatly around the hips, and a hip fit that feels lifted without being tight. At first glance, they may look understated, but once you wear them, I believe you will feel the true comfort and beauty of bespoke trousers.

The design described above is our house style, but because it is bespoke, we can also accommodate specific requests such as high-back trousers, Gurkha trousers, or even cargo trousers. If you have not been able to find trousers you truly like in ready-to-wear or made-to-measure options, I highly recommend considering bespoke trousers.

For this particular order, I chose double pleats facing outward, a button fly instead of a zipper, and side adjusters instead of belt loops. Of course, these details can be changed according to your preference. Bespoke trousers are incredibly soft and light. In addition, through careful ironwork, they are shaped with an S-curve that follows the line of the leg, creating not only a comfortable fit, but also a beautiful appearance. Personally, I would like to gradually add more bespoke trousers to my own wardrobe over time.

Reasons to Recommend the Bespoke Line

I hope you now have a sense of the quality of our Bespoke Line. Still, there may be some points that concern you when considering an order, so I would like to answer them in a Q&A format.

Q Isn't bespoke tailoring expensive?

A It is certainly not inexpensive. However, as mentioned earlier, The Dressing Lab.'s Bespoke Line is intentionally priced as reasonably as possible in relation to the quality offered, so that customers can enjoy bespoke tailoring more casually. Bespoke tailoring requires a great deal of time and skilled craftsmanship, so in order to support the work of the craftsmen properly, the price naturally becomes higher. Our Bespoke Line is supported by the skills of Mr. Kojima, the leading tailor at our workshop, and by the structure of the tailoring atelier. This allows us to offer the quality of a fully handmade garment while keeping the price closer to a high-quality factory order and maintaining stable delivery times. As a result, customers can experience high-quality bespoke tailoring in a more approachable way.

Q Is bespoke tailoring a luxury?

A Considering how long the garment can be worn, I do not think it is simply a luxury. This is also true for made-to-measure. At our store, we suggest fabrics and fittings while considering how the customer will actually wear the garment, so that it can be enjoyed for many years.
Furthermore, bespoke tailoring allows more time to be spent on ironwork than made-to-measure, and it also allows for more seam allowance, which can be difficult to include in made-to-measure garments. This makes it easier to adjust the garment later if your body shape or preferences change significantly.
Because of this, a bespoke garment can be cherished and worn for 10 years, 20 years, or even longer. When you order bespoke, we make fabric and fitting suggestions with a long-term view in mind, so please feel reassured. I believe that even years after the order, each time you wear it, you will feel, "I am so glad I had this made bespoke."

Q I am already satisfied with the comfort of made-to-measure. Is bespoke really necessary?

A To be honest, this is a difficult point to explain. In terms of comfort, bespoke tailoring includes many refinements that are characteristic of handmade garments, such as hand-sewn details, front shoulder shaping in jackets, and the S-curve in trousers. These can make bespoke garments even more comfortable than made-to-measure. However, our made-to-measure line is already very high in quality and customer satisfaction. Since it is factory-made with the goal of approaching bespoke quality, it is so well made that I do not think bespoke should be recommended only by saying, "It is more comfortable." It may be better to understand that bespoke and made-to-measure each have their own kind of excellence.
To compare it with Italian cuisine, on many days you may be perfectly satisfied with a salad, pasta, and a glass of wine. But sometimes, you may want to enjoy a full course meal slowly, from the appetizer to the pasta, main dish, and dessert. I think bespoke tailoring is similar to that full course meal. We take time to speak with the customer in detail, with both the tailor and myself involved, to understand and give shape to the customer's wishes. Through two fittings, those wishes are shaped and refined further. It is a time-consuming and detailed process, but I believe that the time itself becomes a joyful and fulfilling experience. Those pleasant memories will return each time you wear the garment. There are not many clothes that can offer that kind of richness. Just as you may not want a full course meal every day, you do not always need to choose bespoke. However, even if it is only once a year, we would be very happy to create that special piece for you through our bespoke service.
There is also a difference in the finish and atmosphere between made-to-measure and bespoke. Made-to-measure, being factory-made, has a very sharp and clean finish. Bespoke, on the other hand, includes detailed handwork by Japanese craftsmen, such as stitching, buttonholes, lapel joining, and other parts. In hand-sewing, the tension of the thread is adjusted by the craftsman, so it has more flexibility than machine stitching. This creates a finish with warmth, softness, and character. The sharpness of made-to-measure and the soft, expressive finish of bespoke each have their own appeal.
Incidentally, according to the craftsmen, they enjoy changing the thread used for the stitching according to the fabric ordered. For my order, I chose a relatively fine fabric called Green Hills by Drapers, so the stitches were made delicately with a fine thread. If the fabric is a little thicker, they use a thicker thread so that the stitching will not be overwhelmed by the fabric. This kind of detail is another pleasure of bespoke tailoring.

Q I hear that bespoke can be customized freely, but I do not have a specific image in mind. Is that a problem?

A This is also a common concern with made-to-measure. When asked, "What kind of style would you like?" it is wonderful if you already have a clear image or can explain your preferences, but in many cases the image is still vague, or it is difficult to put into words.

Please do not worry. At The Dressing Lab., we have samples of suits, jackets, and coats tailored in our Bespoke Line house style, so you can look at them and get a clearer idea. Based on these samples, you can simply tell us, "I like this part," or "I would prefer this part to be different." Mr. Kojima, the craftsman, and I will work closely with you to understand your preferences and carefully propose a style that you can enjoy for 10 to 20 years, or even longer. Whether you have a precise idea or simply want to experience bespoke tailoring, please feel comfortable coming to us.

Q Is bespoke only for suits? Since it is fully custom, can anything be made?

A Bespoke tailoring allows for a wider range of customization than made-to-measure, but I also believe that craftsmen create their best work when making items they truly love and understand. The Dressing Lab.'s Bespoke Line mainly includes the following items:

Suits
Jackets
Trousers
Vests
Various coats, including Chesterfield Coat, Staincollar Coat, Raglan Coat, Duffle Coat, and Pea Coat

Mr. Kojima is excellent at tailoring suits and jackets, but he also has a deep love and knowledge of vintage clothing, and has personally enjoyed making duffle coats and pea coats as a hobby. When speaking about bespoke options, he says with a smile, "I am good at making coats." For that reason, when you order a custom coat, you can expect a very special finish. Duffle coats and pea coats in particular are items that are difficult to offer through made-to-measure, and I think they are well worth ordering bespoke. While respecting classic details, they are made with tailoring techniques throughout, almost like "Dress Duffles." They are excellent for everyday wear and also pair beautifully with suit styles.

Q Can I place a bespoke order at any time?

A At The Dressing Lab., we hold bespoke order events with Mr. Kojima about once every two to three months. After placing an order, you will have a basted fitting at the next order event. At the following event, there will be a fitting for the semi-finished garment, and after that, the piece will be completed. We announce the schedule for these order events on our website and Facebook, but if you have a particular interest, we can also notify you once the dates are decided. Please feel free to contact us about this.
Mr. Kojima handles the fittings for the basted and semi-finished garments, while I, Hayashi, can take care of the initial consultation and measurements. If you would like to visit us, please make an appointment through the reservation form on our website.

How does The Dressing Lab.'s Bespoke Line sound to you? I may be saying this myself, but I believe we offer a very good balance of quality, delivery time, and price. Whether you are thinking, "I would like to order a bespoke suit with a soft Italian atmosphere," "I want to experience bespoke, but I do not know where to order," or "I want to have a casual coat made, but I cannot find a place that offers this kind of service," please feel free to consult with The Dressing Lab.

At our store, we regularly display bespoke garments tailored by Mr. Kojima, including pieces I have ordered myself. Whether you would like to try on a bespoke jacket or hear more about our bespoke service, we would be happy to welcome you by appointment. We look forward to your visit.