Dress Line "Chester Coat"

Introducing the "Chester Coat" from The Dressing Lab.Order Coat.

Chester Coat

Tailored to perfection at The Dressing Lab, the Chesterfield Coat draws its name from the 19th century, inspired by the design popularized by the Earl of Chesterfield.

While the Chesterfield Coat is now classified as one of the most formal coats, during a time when lengthy and heavy coats were the norm for warmth, the shorter length and waist-tapered coat of the Earl of Chesterfield was revolutionary. It prioritized style over warmth, offering a coat that could be worn with ease. Though its official name is "Chesterfield Coat", it's commonly shortened to "Chester Coat" in Japan due to the lengthy nature of the former.

Originally born from men's fashion, the Chester Coat has since become a staple in both men's and women's fashion. Its elegance combined with its versatility, suitable for both formal and casual occasions, is the reason for its widespread popularity.

We will introduce the design variations and features of The Dressing Lab's tailor-made Chester Coats.

Dimensional Tailored Form

One of the defining features of the Chester Coat is its tailored design, reminiscent of a jacket simply extended in length. Like a jacket, it's constructed using canvas interlining to give it structure. While other coats we offer, such as the stain collar coat and the raglan coat, do have collars, only the Chester Coat boasts a lapel similar to that of a jacket. This rolled and voluminous lapel is a standout feature of the Chester Coat. Drawing inspiration from the original design conceived by the Earl of Chesterfield, the true essence of the Chester Coat lies in its voluminous chest tapering down to a cinched waist, creating a smooth silhouette.

The Dressing Lab's Signature Natural Shoulder

Just as with our tailor-made jackets, the Chester Coat offers various construction options, from structured shoulders with shoulder pads to natural, padless shoulders. The Dressing Lab's Chester Coat, staying true to our jacket concept, is crafted with a "natural shoulder" design without shoulder pads. This ensures a lightweight finish, providing both a comfortable feel and a soft appearance, making it effortlessly versatile for casual ensembles.

Collar Rise and Exceptional Fit

The "rising collar" feature, where the coat's collar snugly wraps around the neck, is a standout element of The Dressing Lab's Chester Coat. One would certainly want to avoid a situation where the coat collar falls, revealing the jacket collar beneath. Our Chester Coat, through the craftsmanship of our tailors, is designed in a manner where the collar seamlessly rises from the natural shoulder line, fitting closely around the neck and shoulders, to the extent that one can't discern if there's a jacket worn underneath.

Beyond just aesthetics, this collar design ensures warmth as it fully covers up to a high position on the neck. Most notably, with the coat fitting perfectly around the neck and shoulders, it distributes its weight evenly. This results in a wearing experience so light that you might forget about the coat's weight altogether.

Single and Double: Design Variations of the Chester Coat

Next, let's explore the design variations. Broadly speaking, the Chester Coat comes in two types: Single-breasted and Double-breasted. Commonly, these are referred to as "Single Chester" and "Double Chester."

Single Chester

The Single Chester is typically available in two lapel styles: "Notched Lapel" and "Peaked Lapel." Generally, a narrower lapel gives a more modern feel, while a wider one imparts a classic impression. At our establishment, we propose a confident, classic look with a wide lapel. Of course, adjustments such as making it slightly narrower or even wider based on personal preference are possible.

Notched Lapel

Peaked Lapel

Double Chester

The Double Chester features a double-breasted front, with the peaked lapel being the standard collar design. This is similar to the design of jackets. Compared to the Single Chester, the Double Chester has a broader collar, conveying a more substantial appearance. However, our version of the Double Chester is crafted with softly curved lapels and unpadded shoulder lines, resulting in a softer and not overly heavy ambiance.

While it bears resemblance to the double-breasted Polo Coat, the Double Chester is more straightforward in its details. The Polo Coat is indeed exquisite, with distinctive features such as back pleats, turn-up cuffs, and framed patch pockets, which make a strong impression due to their unique nature. If you're seeking a simpler double-breasted coat, we recommend the Double Chester.

Distinctive Cuffs of the Chester Coat

The cuffs of the Chester Coat are indeed distinctive. While the Stand Collar Coat and Raglan Coat feature sporty cuffs with tabs or plain barrel cuffs to prevent rain and wind intrusion, the Chester Coat traditionally has "four buttons," just like a jacket. At our store, functioning sleeve vents (known as "surgeon's cuffs") come standard, and for the button placement, customers can choose between "stacked buttons (kissing buttons)" or "parallel placement."

Flap or Patch? Options for the Waist Pocket

Welt Pockets with Flaps

Patch Pockets

The standard design for the waist pockets of the Chester Coat is the familiar "welt pocket with flaps" commonly found on suits. However, we also offer slanted "patch pockets." Not only are they easier for hand access, but they also provide a sporty impression.

Sporverino

A casual coat that originated in Italy, the Chester coat with slanted patch pockets and tailored to a shorter and lighter length, is called "Sporverino," which translates to "dust remover." In English, it can be referred to as the "Duster Coat." It's a perfect piece to effortlessly throw on in lieu of a jacket.

Change Pocket Feature

An option to have a small pocket above the regular waist pocket is also available. This petite pocket is known as the "change pocket." In this context, "change" refers to coins. In the tip-culture prevalent in the West, it's said that this pocket became popular to smartly retrieve coins when giving tips, serving as a handy substitute for a wallet in jackets and coats. While it seems unlikely to see frequent use in Japan, the change pocket can be described as a classic and gentlemanly detail.

Back-Belted or Beltless Design

Customers can opt for a back belt on the coat per their preference. Choosing between the expressive back-belted design and the sleek beltless look can be quite a delightful conundrum--another joy of bespoke tailoring.

Back-Belted Design

The back-belted design not only adds a visual accent but also has the effect of elevating the perceived waist position. When adding a back belt, we intentionally tailor it shorter than the actual body width. This creates a waist drape, resulting in a more expressive back style.

Beltless Design

On the other hand, the simple beltless design is also charming. Whether you lean towards the back-belted or beltless design, both are equally captivating. We'll offer recommendations based on your preferences and the fabric you select.

Unique Fabric Choices and Tailoring Combinations Exclusive to Bespoke

The Chesterfield coat, with its elevated level of formality as evident from its wear at U.S. presidential inaugurations, is truly timeless. When paired with a dark suit, a Chesterfield coat tailored in navy or charcoal gray cashmere or wool epitomizes flawless elegance.

On the other hand, crafting it in earthy tones like camel or brown adds warmth and vivacity, a look that is equally captivating. Moreover, it's recommended to experiment with not just traditional coat fabrics but also jacket or suit materials, giving it the light and playful feel of a 'Spolverino'. The Chesterfield coat's allure lies in its versatility and how its character can be molded based on the combination of fabric and tailoring.

Chesterfield Coat Order Examples

Single-breasted navy Chesterfield tailored with wool-cashmere from Piacenza (notch lapel and change pocket design).

'Spolverino' in beige tailored from the wool-cashmere herringbone of Piacenza (box pocket and wide lapel design).

'Spolverino' in greige tailored from Drapers' wool-cashmere 'TOP LINE' (box pocket, no breast pocket, and wide lapel design).

Double-breasted brown Chesterfield tailored with 'PECORA NERA' from Loro Piana.

Double-breasted Chesterfield crafted from Loro Piana's baby camel (change pocket and back-belted design).

Double-breasted charcoal gray Chesterfield tailored with wool-cashmere from Loro Piana.

A navy double-breasted Chesterfield tailored with Piacenza's baby cashmere & vicuña 'Cocoon'.

Dressing Lab's bespoke Chesterfield coats are crafted respecting traditional tailoring techniques while incorporating the light and soft flair characteristic of Italian design. Beyond business and formal settings, the flexibility of these coats shines in casual environments. They can effortlessly be layered over knits or shirts, almost like a substitute for a jacket. Depending on how it's styled, the versatility in its wear is one of its primary charms.

For those seeking an even lighter finish, we recommend options such as the unlined, wide lapel design or tailoring it in a jacket fabric which is softer and lighter, giving it a 'Spolverino' touch. Choices extend to linings, buttons, and personalized embroidery. The joy of acquiring a coat, tailored uniquely to one's preferences, is the pleasure only bespoke can offer.

Born in the 19th century as a groundbreaking fashion piece, the Chesterfield coat has been a staple, an irreplaceable element in modern autumn-winter ensembles. From suited to casual styles, the Chesterfield remains a go-to. When considering an investment in a coat that will serve you for years, why not opt for bespoke, tailored to your fabric and detail preferences? If you're contemplating purchasing a Chesterfield coat, we invite you to consult with Dressing Lab. We promise a unique and enduring finish that you'll cherish.

Related: New Arrival Items

Spritumn Coat
Introducing two models, inspired by the Chesterfield and Raglan coats! We aimed for lightness, water-resistance, windproofing, breathability, versatility, and a sense of luxury. This order coat offers protection against rain and wind and can be seamlessly worn during both spring and autumn, embodying a seasonless elegance.