Dress Line "Jacket"

The jackets we offer at The Dressing Lab are personal orders tailored to each individual client. Based on the styles proposed by The Dressing Lab, the jacket is custom-made with fine adjustments to suit each client's physique and preferences. From dressy jackets to casual ones that can be effortlessly worn as everyday attire, we offer limitless customization through a combination of tailoring techniques, intricate details, and fabric selections.

Our house style embraces an Italian taste, aiming for a constructed yet soft and lightweight feel. This allows those who wear our jackets to exude an aura of quality and polished elegance, while also presenting a soft and approachable impression. Additionally, no matter how stylish a jacket is, if it's uncomfortable to wear, it becomes a source of stress. Our jackets are not only physically lightweight but are also tailored in a manner that feels light. As a result, wearing our jacket all day will not be tiring; in fact, you may even forget that you have it on.

Our Dress Line custom jackets at our store are tailored at one of Japan's top tailoring factories, using a "Full Canvas" specification (a traditional and highest-grade method using horsehair canvas from the shoulder to the hem). This involves a time-consuming process of meticulously ironing and sewing with resting intervals. Although it takes some time for the jacket to be finished, the end result is an exquisite three-dimensional and rounded finish. The time invested in tailoring ensures that the form created through ironwork settles in, making our suits resistant to losing their shape.

One of the benefits of the Full Canvas construction is that the finished product is structured, and the form is maintained semi-permanently. While depending on the canvas chosen, Full Canvas can sometimes be criticized for being stiffer or heavier compared to fused or half-canvas, our store selectively uses canvas that is both resilient and as light and soft as possible. This combines the unique three-dimensionality of Full Canvas with softness and lightness, without feeling the presence of the canvas.

The difference between our Sports Line "jackets" and the Dress Line lies in the construction. Compared to our Sports Line jackets, which are unconstructed with minimal use of canvas and lining, the Dress Line with Full Canvas construction is more structured and has a refined appearance. For those who primarily wear jackets in business settings and prefer a sharp impression, we highly recommend the jackets from our Dress Line.

"Natural Shoulder" and "Rolled Lapel"

The shoulder line is naturally and softly finished using only canvas, without any shoulder pads. It's not excessively sloped and maintains a balanced coexistence of lightness and sharpness. Moreover, shoulder pads can feel surprisingly warm, especially during hot weather. Tailoring with just the canvas not only feels light but also has excellent breathability and is cool. Additionally, jackets are often paired with casual inner wear such as crew-neck T-shirts. The soft shoulder line without pads makes it easier to match with casual inner wear.

Please also pay attention to the magnificent "roll" of the lapel. From the natural shoulder line, the lapel rises robustly and fits snugly around the neck with a "roll". In addition to its visual elegance, the fit from the neck to the shoulder is exceptionally comfortable. This is achieved through a tailoring technique called "Rolled Lapel". It may sound like a menacing term, but in tailoring parlance, deforming the fabric with an iron is referred to as "killing". Rolled Lapel refers to creating the curved shape of the lapel not by using fabric cut in the shape of the lapel from the beginning but by taking a straight piece of fabric and molding it into a curved lapel shape with an iron. This results in a three-dimensional lapel with resilience, and the fit is highly enhanced.

The structure of our lapels at our store will be a solution for those who are troubled by the issue of "collar gap". The phenomenon where the jacket's lapel separates from the neck, known as "collar gap," is not only a matter of the quality of tailoring but also largely involves the body shape of the wearer, such as those with a prominent chest (pigeon-chested) or those with a pronounced curvature of the back (stooped posture). However, by combining the "Rolled Lapel" with "body shape adjustments", the worry of collar gap is eliminated. Additionally, when the jacket properly sits on the shoulders and neck, distributing the weight, it feels lighter than its actual weight. The synergy of this light feel and ease of movement ensures that you will not feel fatigued even after wearing it for an entire day. If you have ever thought, "I want to take off my jacket quickly because my shoulders get stiff," or "Even wearing an expensive jacket doesn't fit well, so I stopped wearing it," we highly encourage you to try a custom jacket from Dressing Lab. We promise that the jacket will overturn your previous negative perceptions.

Sleeve Attachment and Armholes

Let's talk about the sleeve attachment. By selecting the thinnest and softest materials for the sleeve head (the highest part of the sleeve root), we ensure a natural connection from the shoulder line, allowing the sleeves to fall gracefully. This is a meticulous effort to make both the feel and appearance lighter.

Although it appears sleek, the shoulders and sleeves are skillfully 'eased' (hidden allowance mainly around the jacket's shoulder area shaped with an iron to allow it to follow the body's movements) ensuring a fit that is both snug and free from the feeling of constriction. Combined with the meticulously shaped and fitted forepart of the shoulder (a space provided in the jacket to accommodate the forward-most protruding part of the shoulder), this creates an ideal comfort in wear. Furthermore, the armholes are kidney-bean shaped and kept to the minimal necessary size, which ensures freedom of movement while providing the perfect fit. If you have ever thought, "When I sit at a computer with my jacket on, the collar seems to rise" or "When I reach up, such as for a strap on the train, the jacket rises too and looks bad," it might be due to the armholes not fitting properly. There are many jackets on the market with large armholes, since it is thought that 'one size fits all'. These jackets may seem comfortable at first glance because the sleeves are easy to slip on, but in reality, they sacrifice ease of movement. Armholes that are too small can cause stress under the arms and are a no-go, but moderately fitted armholes are a critical element for a jacket that is easy to move in. This adjustment, referred to as "kamabuka" in professional terms, is one of the benefits unique to high-level custom tailoring. We highly recommend wearing a jacket with well-fitted armholes (kamabuka). We believe you will be amazed by the comfort and ease of movement.

Patch Pockets

One of the quintessential features of a jacket's waist pockets is the "Patch Pockets." They are sometimes referred to as out-pockets, but globally, the term Patch Pockets is more common. True to its name, Patch Pockets are characterized by being attached to the exterior of the jacket. While jackets often adopt the double besom pockets, just like the jackets of suits, and even suit jackets may sometimes feature patch pockets, jackets are predominantly tailored with patch pockets. This is because jackets often call for a more casual and sporty feel, and patch pockets serve to enhance these qualities.

Patch Pockets may be something you're all familiar with, but The Dressing Lab's Patch Pockets are distinctly unique. First and foremost is how the pocket perfectly fits the curve of the waist. As one would expect, the pockets extend outward from the jacket. Therefore, they come with just the right amount of ease along the outer edge of the pocket opening, ensuring there is no excess fabric. There is also ingenuity in the line of the pocket's opening. While in pictures it might appear straight, the pocket opening is actually subtly curved. This is to ensure that when the pocket is attached to the curved waist of the jacket, it appears straight. Additionally, the pocket opening is about 1.5 cm narrower than the widest part of the pocket. You could imagine it akin to a cone. This is also a careful consideration to ensure that the pockets settle harmoniously with the overall balance of the jacket.

I absolutely love Patch Pockets. They are ideal for creating a soft and unpretentious atmosphere. While the general rule is not to use the waist pockets of a jacket, with Patch Pockets, it is fun to deliberately slip your hands in and wear the jacket in a relaxed manner. This laid-back style is one of the many charms of the versatile Patch Pockets.

Barchetta Pocket

Let's talk about the breast pocket. The standard breast pocket for our custom jackets is the "Barchetta Pocket", same as with our custom suits. "Barchetta" in Italian means "small boat". Unlike the straight-edged breast pocket, which is known as the "welt pocket", the Barchetta Pocket is characterized by a curvature with the upper right corner tapering like the bow of a boat. Crafted meticulously by artisans, the bottom edge beautifully mimics the curve of a boat hull. This design was conceived to gracefully follow the three-dimensional contours of the chest, and serves as a testament to fine tailoring. Furthermore, the upward sloping form is both dynamic and elegant. For custom jackets (and for some custom suit jackets), converting the breast pocket to the aforementioned Patch Pocket makes the jacket even more sporty. When both the waist pockets and the breast pocket are Patch Pockets, the jacket is referred to as "3 Patch" (Three Patch).

Pitch & Tapered Sleeves

Let's talk about sleeves. Particularly for men, when the arm is relaxed and hanging down, it naturally curves forward due to muscle tension, so that the palm of the hand is slightly in front of the thigh rather than directly to the side of the body. To accommodate this natural curvature, the sleeves of our jackets are tailored with a forward pitch. This not only provides a greater range of motion towards the front but also ensures that when the arms are hanging down, the sleeves elegantly follow the contour of the arms, creating a very aesthetically pleasing look. Since each client's arm and muscle structure varies, we conduct fittings to ascertain the direction and size of your arms and adjust the sleeves of the suit accordingly.

Furthermore, the sleeves of our jackets taper from the elbow to the cuff, gradually narrowing. This creates a tapered line, similar to the tapered silhouette of pants, which runs from the top of the sleeve through the elbow to the cuff. Not only does this contribute to a beautifully streamlined silhouette, but it also ensures that the cuff stays in place and maintains its shape even when you are in motion.

Buttonhole Stitching and Flower Loop

Our jackets are crafted with meticulous detail, and as you'd expect from a sophisticated tailoring process, the lapels of our jackets feature buttonhole stitching, also known as "Hachi-zashi" in Japanese. "Hachi-zashi" translates to "eight stitches," and the term was derived from the figure-eight pattern in which the stitching is done. Instead of simply adhering the interfacing to the fabric, this technique involves carefully sewing the interfacing and fabric together with delicate stitches, creating a soft and natural roll in the lapel. Additionally, we also incorporate an extra touch by adding a flower loop at the back of the lapel buttonhole. This is to ensure that when a flower is inserted into the buttonhole, there is a convenient loop in place to securely hold the stem.

Lapel Width and Roll

Let's talk about lapels. At our store, the width of the lapels on our custom-made jackets can be adjusted according to your preference and physique. However, I highly recommend opting for a slightly wider "Wide Lapel". Generally, a width of around 9cm is considered standard depending on the size you order. This style conveys a classic and stately impression, and the X-shaped line that extends from the broad lapel to a deep front cut has a timeless appeal. Wide lapels also complement casual jackets quite well, so I encourage you to try our Wide Lapel option. The lapels of our jackets gracefully curve outward before rolling, making them exceptionally stylish.

Regarding the roll of the lapel, as the term "roll" suggests, ideally, a lapel should not be sharply folded but should gently and naturally roll back. The jackets from The Dressing Lab feature a lapel roll that is so ideal, one might expect to see it as the definition if they looked up "lapel roll" in a dictionary. This lapel alone justifies the decision to order a jacket from our store.

Vents

Let's discuss vents. Vents refer to the slits at the hem of a jacket. As seen in the image, you can opt for side vents, which are slits on both the left and right sides, a single center vent in the middle, or no vents at all. You might be wondering which type of vent is the correct choice for a jacket. The truth is, there is no wrong choice when it comes to vent design. However, unless there are specific reasons not to, our store recommends side vents. Side vents strike a perfect balance between casualness and a sharp look. They are suitable for almost any occasion, except for very formal settings, and exude a sense of elegance even with a sporty feel. While the minimalistic look of a jacket without vents has its appeal, the graceful movement that side vents allow is wonderful. Although side vents are our basic recommendation, opting for a center vent, especially in traditional attire such as a navy blazer, can also be a stylish choice.

Let's also talk about vents and body shape correction. Whether it's side vents or a center vent, individuals with well-rounded buttocks or a slightly arched back (lordosis) often face the issue of the jacket's vents opening up. However, this concern is addressed with The Dressing Lab's custom-made jackets. Our vents are designed not to open easily by incorporating a deeper overlap and innovatively angling the overlap of the vents. Moreover, depending on the client's physique, we make alterations such as widening the hip area of the jacket, and adjusting the jacket's pattern so that it sits in the correct position according to the orientation of the body. Through these tailoring techniques and body shape corrections, we solve the issue of vents opening up.

Lastly, let's discuss the fit of the jacket. We often receive the question, especially when customers order a suit and a jacket together, "Should the suit jacket and the jacket have different sizes?" At our store (depending on the customer's preferences and the intended use of the jacket), we usually propose making adjustments to the size. Specifically, we often suggest altering the length. For suit jackets (especially dark suits), we recommend a length that adequately covers the buttocks to create a dressy impression when worn as a suit ensemble. On the other hand, jackets can be paired with slacks as well as cotton pants or slim jeans, ranging from dressy to casual trousers. In such cases, if the jacket length is as long as that of a suit jacket, it can appear excessively dressy and unbalanced when worn with casual pants. Therefore, to maintain the elegance of the jacket within an appropriate range, we often shorten it by approximately 1cm to 1.5cm compared to the suit jacket length. This adjustment takes into account the intended use of the jacket and the customer's physique and character, allowing us to provide the most suitable recommendation. In addition to the fit, we also consult with customers on lapel style, double-breasted or single-breasted design, vents, pockets, stitching, and other details to create a truly personalized jacket. We invite you to try The Dressing Lab's Dress Line "Jacket" and experience the difference.