The Dressing Lab. "Bespoke Leather Jacket"

Introducing The Dressing Lab's custom leather item: the "Bespoke Leather Jacket".

About Bespoke:

To start off, "bespoke" refers to what is commonly known as fully custom-made. While "made-to-measure" (or pattern orders) involves adjusting an existing pattern to fit, bespoke involves creating a new pattern from scratch. All of our leather jackets at The Dressing Lab are crafted using the bespoke method. While ensuring a stylish outcome is a given, we can meticulously cater to all your requirements, be it design or fit.

The Unique Leather Jackets of Our Custom Salon:

When one thinks of leather jackets, images of rider's jackets, bomber jackets, or those associated with motorsports and military might come to mind. Our leather jackets are bespoke, meaning we can craft them in any design as per your requirements. However, the design that we receive the most orders for is the "Tailored Jacket."

"Tailored Jacket", directly translated, means "tailored coat". While it might seem like a somewhat ambiguous term with a 'Japanglish' nuance, in this context, we want to use "Tailored Jacket" to differentiate it from sporty leather jackets like the rider's jacket. It is more in line with dressy jackets that feature notch lapels or peak lapels.

Our leather "Tailored Jacket" primarily uses finely thinned sheepskin, and we make it as light and soft as possible, foregoing elements like shoulder pads. Being a custom salon, crafting tailored jackets is our forte. Just like our dress line and sports line of jackets, we also pay meticulous attention to details like the lapel roll and gorge line. Many customers often exclaim in pleasant surprise, "It doesn't even look like a leather jacket!"

Our tailoring artisans possess extensive experience in crafting ladies' leather items and have worked on leather pieces for haute couture maisons. This ensures that whether it's a tailored jacket or even a rider's jacket, the finished product always exudes a soft and elegant ambiance.

A unique aspect of The Dressing Lab, which specializes in custom-made dress items like suits, shirts, and ties, is our ability to craft leather jackets that can seamlessly be paired with dress slacks or dress shirts, or even be styled up with ties. This results in leather jackets that fit perfectly within a dress-casual wardrobe, striking a balance that's not too dressy nor too casual. It's an ideal choice for those seeking a leather jacket versatile for both work and leisure. Should you need advice on coordinating outfits, please feel free to consult us.

Now, based on a tailored jacket I personally ordered, allow me to introduce you to the fundamental details of our tailored jackets.

Single Tailored Jacket Details:

The leather is a greige suede made from sheepskin. This premium, softly napped suede is part of the "Sheep Silky" series, boasting a texture reminiscent of fine-grained wood that feels as if it's clinging to the touch. Its silky-smooth feel is truly comparable to silk, making you want to keep touching it. The comfort when worn is distinct, different from wool or cashmere. The matte finish of the suede makes it easily integrable into one's wardrobe, even for those new to leather jackets.

A defining characteristic of our jackets is the absence of shoulder pads, creating a natural shoulder look. The outcome is a jacket that is light, soft, and as easy to drape over oneself as it appears.

The back view showcases the exquisite stitching and, given its broad expanse, the premium quality of the leather truly stands out.

Unlike mass-produced leather jackets, in custom-made ones, only the best parts of the leather--free from flaws and wrinkles--are selected and used. It's natural for them to look pristine. Much like a skilled shoemaker, a leather jacket artisan is adept at discerning the quality of leather. They source only the finest leather and further select the best parts of it to craft the jacket. While artisans consider this a given, it's a luxurious advantage unique to bespoke craftsmanship.

The sleeve cuffs feature functional buttonholes (surgeon's cuffs) and for a sporty touch, we've chosen a three-button arrangement this time. Of course, customization options are available, be it a four-button overlapping style, a simple barrel cuff without buttons, or even turn-up cuffs, as preferred by some clients.

Upon unbuttoning, the buttonholes are reinforced with machine stitching to ensure durability through years of use.

The waist pockets are deliberately designed without double besom flaps. While casual patch pockets often suit leather jackets, opting for a more refined double besom pocket design imparts an elegance that's uncharacteristic of traditional leather jackets.

Crafting a gorge line with a curve is challenging even for typical wool jackets. Such a feat is permissible due to the bespoke process. During the fitting, I drew the desired gorge line directly onto the basted jacket and relayed this vision to the artisan. The curve, its height, and angle were finely tuned to closely match the ideal vision.

Styling the Leather Jacket

From here on, we'll delve into the art of styling the leather jacket. Many of our clients express sentiments such as, "I've always admired leather jackets, but styling them seems challenging" or "I once bought an off-the-rack jacket, but I'm unsure about how to wear it properly." With that in mind, I've combined the suede tailored jacket that I recently ordered with other custom items from our store to demonstrate its versatility in a dress-casual setting.

Styling Option #1
Wool Polo Shirt + Drawstring Pants + Sneakers

Given our leather jackets are tailored without shoulder pads for a lighter feel, they pair seamlessly with dress-casual looks. For this ensemble, I've chosen a wool polo shirt, textured drawstring pants, and paired it with suede Adidas 'Campus' sneakers. While the "leather tailored jacket" can sometimes come across as overly sophisticated, breaking it down like this makes it more approachable for everyday wear. As we move into the next season, pairing it with a hoodie or similar would be equally stylish.

Styling Option #2
Denim Shirt & Tie + Cotton Slacks + Monk Strap Shoes

I've opted for a slightly dressy jacket-and-pants style, pairing it with a shirt and tie. Using off-white pants to highlight the top, the ensemble is harmoniously tied together with shades of brown and blue. The darker V-zone adds a cohesive, grounding touch.


For such ensembles, having a denim shirt on hand is truly invaluable. Even going tie-less and pairing it with a knit cardigan or a vest can look quite charming.

Styling Option #3
Mock Neck Knit + Wool Slacks + Coin Loafers

I've tried to capture a winter-appropriate look here. A light brown cashmere mock neck is paired with flannel pants, rounded off with black loafers.

The combination of a cashmere knit with the soft suede jacket is an unquestionably elegant pairing. It feels like being wrapped in a gentle embrace, offering an incredibly comfortable wear. The leather jacket also doesn't allow the wind to penetrate, ensuring excellent insulation.

Next, we'll introduce some accessory options you can choose from when ordering our leather jacket.

Leather Samples, Lining, and Buttons

We primarily recommend supple and beautiful sheepskin for our leather. With nearly 100 color variations, we offer a broad range of leather choices such as nappa (smooth leather) and suede. Beyond sheepskin, we can also provide other types of leather such as calf, goatskin, and hair-on leather, available upon request.

For the lining, in addition to plain cupro, we also offer a rich assortment of patterned linings from Italy.

We primarily offer buttons made from natural materials, such as buffalo (horn) buttons, shell buttons, and nut buttons.

Pairing the jacket with metal buttons for a blazer look can also be charming.

If desired, we can embroider your name in an inner pocket.

On the opposite side, our brand name will be attached.

Measurement and Delivery Time

Initially, we'll measure your body to record your nude dimensions. Following this, you'll try on a sample jacket crafted from wool to ensure the correct balance and fit. If you have specific design or size preferences, and if you possess a jacket with a design close to what you envision, we can discuss the design and size based on that jacket. We can also craft designs from pictures or magazine clippings you provide.

Subsequently, a trial jacket will be ready in approximately one month. You'll then try on this trial version, allowing us to finalize measurements, make any necessary adjustments, and confirm the design. If significant changes are needed after the first trial, we will craft another trial jacket. The final leather jacket will be ready approximately one month after the last trial fitting. From the initial measurement to the finished product, incorporating the trial fittings, the entire process generally takes around three months.

Examples Unique to Bespoke Orders

Not only can we craft single-breasted tailored jackets, but double-breasted versions are also available upon request. Beyond tailored jackets, we also accept orders for sporty leather jackets like bomber and rider jackets. Here, we will introduce a jacket ordered by one of our customers.

Double-Breasted Tailored Jacket

This is a double-breasted tailored jacket made of suede. However, instead of the typical sheepskin, this jacket is crafted from goatskin, offering a more rugged appearance than the fine-grained sheep suede. This particular goatskin suede was specially prepared for a customer seeking that distinct texture. Being able to cater to such specific leather requests is one of the strengths unique to bespoke tailoring.

The jacket features a broad, curving lapel that is undoubtedly stylish. While peak lapels can sometimes flare out, this one snugly follows the contour of the body, a testament to the quality of the tailoring.

The jacket features a broad, curving lapel that is undoubtedly stylish. While peak lapels can sometimes flare out, this one snugly follows the contour of the body, a testament to the quality of the tailoring.

It also boasts cleanly fitted patch pockets (external pockets) that don't gape.

The sleeve cuffs are adorned with four overlapped buttons. Gold metal buttons have been used, giving it a blazer-style look.

The back style is also beautifully shaped and contoured.

Custom Full Reverse Specification. The standard for leather jackets is to have a complete lining ('fully-lined') on the inside to prevent the leather's fuzz from sticking to inner shirts or transferring color. However, for this particular customer, the preference was for a lighter appearance and feel over potential effects on the innerwear. As a result, based on their request, we provided a jacket with minimal lining, employing a full reverse specification. This design allows the wearer to directly experience the texture of the leather.

Bomber Jacket

The bomber jacket is a design inspired by the flight jackets worn by the air force. The well-known MA-1 is a type of bomber jacket. We received an order for a luxurious bomber jacket made from a deep, dark brown sheepskin. The collar, hem, and cuffs are accented with wool ribbing, ensuring outstanding comfort.

Brown & Gold. A combination that simply can't go wrong.

To emphasize the quality of the leather and tailoring, we've kept the details as simple as possible. However, upon the customer's request for a standout gold zipper, we specially sourced one to fulfill this wish. The prominent zipper pull serves as a subtle yet distinctive accent.

Even hidden areas, such as the back of the zipper, are meticulously finished.

Shawl Collar Tailored Jacket

We received an order for a jacket with a shawl collar, crafted from white Nappa leather (the outer layer of sheepskin). Commonly found on tuxedos and suited for glamorous evening and party scenes, this design was playfully chosen to be crafted from leather for everyday wear. Bespoke tailoring is indeed delightful.

Made for a client with an imposing stature, we ensured the shawl collar was generously wide and voluminous so as not to be overshadowed by his powerful physique. The position of the flower hole and buttons were meticulously verified during the fitting of the mock-up. The result is truly luxurious.

We incorporated the client's favorite color, red, into the stitching. Additionally, we sourced special shell buttons with a red trim.

For the lining, we found a material that perfectly matched the red and white theme of this order. The ladybug pattern is bound to bring good luck.

Tailored Jacket

Crafted in navy Nappa leather (the outer layer of sheepskin), this is a classic tailored jacket. It radiates an undeniable sense of style that's always in vogue!

While the design is identical to the greige sheep suede jacket we introduced earlier, the difference in material creates a distinct impression.

The lustrous and visibly supple sheepskin is incredibly elegant. Gone are the all-too-common overly rigid or overly glossy looks typical of outer leather jackets.

Buttons are made of genuine black buffalo horn, adding a chic touch.

The jacket features besom pockets without flaps. Its streamlined details exude a dignified ambiance.

The back is designed in this manner: with side vents. One can appreciate the fine waist shaping and the beauty of the leather.

How did you find The Dressing Lab's bespoke leather jackets? The craftsmanship of tailoring, the quality of the leather, and of course, the design, leather, lining, buttons, and sizing all culminate in a leather jacket perfectly tailored to your desires -- a hallmark of bespoke.

Whether you desire a versatile leather jacket suitable for both casual and formal occasions, wish for a classic design with a unique twist, find standard sizes ill-fitting, or have a specific design and material in mind that you can't locate in retail, please don't hesitate to consult Dressing Lab. We promise to craft a piece that will surely captivate you.

In our store, we constantly have samples of leather jackets I've personally ordered, as well as samples of leather and buttons. If you're interested, please come by for a viewing. We sincerely look forward to your reservations and inquiries.