We are pleased to introduce the latest custom coat from The Dressing Lab: the "Spritumn Coat".

This versatile outerwear can be quickly thrown on during unexpected chilly days in spring, carried as a substitute for a raincoat during the rainy season, and worn as a transitional piece from autumn to winter, before switching to wool coats or down jackets. The Spritumn Coat from Dressing Lab truly shines as a seasonless essential.
Please note that it will take approximately 40 days from order to completion. Given its lightweight design, we assure you that once ordered, it will be a staple in your wardrobe for a long duration.

We sought after:
・Lightness
・Water repellency
・Wind resistance
・Breathability
・Versatility
・Premium feel

The result is a custom-made coat that meets all these requirements: the Spritumn Coat. The term "Spritumn" is an original word, coined by combining "Spring" and "Autumn".

When we think of a "spring coat", the image of spring immediately comes to mind, and terms like trench coats or stand-collar coats tend to reference the design of the coat rather than the season. In English, the term "topcoat", which can correspond to a spring coat, often makes many think of the top coat applied to nails.

With that in mind, to convey the idea of a coat that is "seasonless, wearable in both spring and autumn, and serves as a lightweight shield against rain and wind", we coined the original name: Spritumn Coat. Moreover, we will be introducing this as a series, incorporating familiar coat designs like stand-collar and Chesterfield into the Spritumn Coat lineup.

Before delving into the details of the Spritumn Coat, let's first revisit the very concept of the "spring coat" and, its synonym in many respects, the "trench coat".

Spring Coat Explained

The term "Spring Coat" is a Japan-specific Anglicism. Globally, it's simply referred to as a "Topcoat". As the name suggests, it's a lightweight coat designed to be worn in the spring. Iconic examples include the stand-collar coat and the trench coat. The color palette ranges from bright shades like beige and khaki to darker hues like navy and black. Even though it's called a "spring coat", it is also frequently worn during the transitional periods from autumn to winter--those moments when it's too early for a wool coat but something light is needed. In terms of material, while cotton is traditional, recent iterations also include nylon, polyester, and high-performance fabrics like Gore-Tex.
Next, what exactly is the trench coat we often hear about, for both men and women?

The Trench Coat Defined

In English, it is written as "Trench Coat". The word "Trench" refers to "trenches", the dugout defensive positions in warfare. The trench coat's origins can be traced back to World War I. It was developed by the British military to provide soldiers with an outerwear that could make the harsh conditions of trench warfare more bearable.

Among all overcoats, the trench coat boasts the most accessories, a testament to its roots in functional warfare attire. The tabs, known as epaulettes, on both shoulders were designed for attaching rank insignia, and also served to thread gun or canteen straps, preventing them from slipping off the shoulders. The unique flap on the right shoulder, called a gun flap, played a role in reinforcing the area where the butt of a gun would rest during shooting, also providing protection against recoil. The D-rings on the belt were originally meant to hang grenades.

Though the trench coat is now widely loved and worn by women, its roots paint a picture of a truly hard-boiled item. Even though its sizing has evolved to be more unisex and fashionable, the trench coat still retains many of its original military details.

The fabric typical for a trench coat is cotton gabardine, a densely woven cotton treated for water-resistance. In an era where nylon didn't exist and rubberized materials were the mainstay for waterproofing, gabardine was a revolutionary fabric for being lightweight while protecting against rain and wind. Interestingly, this remarkable fabric, still beloved today, was invented by Thomas Burberry, the founder of the world-renowned Burberry company, in the late 19th century.

Now, without further ado, let us introduce the features of the Spritumn Coat.

Features of the Spritumn Coat:

Lightness

By opting for a large lapel design without the use of interlining or lining, the coat is exceptionally lightweight. To further emphasize this lightness, we've selected fabrics that, even while thin, boast significant strength. The absence of an interlining and lining not only makes it thin and soft, but when tailored using lightweight fabrics like nylon, it can be folded compactly and stored in a bag. The interior seams have been enhanced with piping for both aesthetics and durability. Customers can choose their preferred color for the piping from our range of high-quality cupro linings.

Water Repellency

In order to serve as an alternative to a raincoat, we've chosen fabrics that have been thoroughly water-repellent treated right from the manufacturing stage. Especially during the rainy seasons, keeping this coat alongside a foldable umbrella in your bag ensures peace of mind.

Windproof

We've selected fabrics with a high density that effectively blocks the wind. Despite being lightweight, it provides a significant warmth. It's perfect for those times, like early spring or late autumn, when a single jacket might be too cold but a brushed wool coat feels too heavy in ambiance. It serves as a transitional piece between your winter coat and lighter garments--a truly versatile coat for all seasons.

Breathability

While it's a boon that the coat protects against wind and rain, in the humid climate of Japan, a major concern is the coat getting stuffy or damp inside. It's not comfortable if condensation forms inside. Hence, for the Spritumn Stand Collar Coat, we've placed metal ventilations under the arms to enhance breathability. This detail not only functions for breathability but also serves as a design highlight. Another feature unique to custom orders is the ability for customers to choose their preferred color for the ventilation's metal parts.

Versatility

Our Spritumn Coat strikes a balance between casual and dressy with its silhouette and design, making it suitable for a wide range of occasions. Worn over a suit or jacket, it lends a refined yet relaxed dress style. Draped over casual wear like T-shirts or hoodies, it elevates the entire ensemble with elegance. It has been well-received not just for business use but also for its versatility during leisure times.

Quality Feel

The craftsmanship of this coat is entrusted to the nation's top-tier tailoring factories, the same ones we collaborate with for our suits and other coats. Even with its sporty vibe, one can perceive the skilled tailoring techniques and meticulous stitching. It's designed for those who value longevity over disposability, aiming to offer a premium tailored coat of the highest quality.

Moreover, each piece is custom-made, ensuring that it is tailored to match your specific body type and preferences. We make adjustments in size and contouring to craft a unique piece just for you. The Spritumn Coat is highly recommended for those who've thought, "I want a spring coat, but I can't find a ready-made design that I like" or "I need something light to throw on, but off-the-shelf sizes don't fit me."

We are rolling out a series of original Spritumn Coats that possess these qualities. We begin with the following two models.

Spritumn Raglan Coat
Spritumn Chesterfield Coat

Let's delve into the distinct features of each model.

Spritumn Raglan Coat

This iconic model can be considered the flagship of our Spritumn Coat range. Since its debut in December 2020 as a "spring coat", it has been one of our bestsellers.

The foundational design is based on our highly acclaimed Raglan Coat, available in both single and double-breasted styles. Its distinguishing features are the relaxed raglan sleeves and an A-line shape, allowing for an easy, breezy draping effect. To this base, we've incorporated unique adjustments that define the Spritumn Coat.

The single-breasted version adopts a classic stand collar. Originating from military attire, the Raglan coat was designed with wearability in mind. With its spacious sleeves and bodice, you don't have to worry about feeling constricted even if you layer it over chunky knits or the increasingly popular oversized outfits of today. Whether you throw it over any outfit, the Spritumn Raglan Coat effortlessly elevates your look.

For those who desire it, a belt can be added around the waist. When tied, the coat takes on a different character. The drapery it forms at the back has been particularly well-received by our customers.

It comes with two belt loops, allowing you to either tuck the belt ends into the pockets or let them hang freely. When you leave the belt untied and wear the coat open, you can enjoy its breezy A-line silhouette, fluttering with the wind.

Each coat comes equipped with an internal pocket on both the left and right sides. For a personalized touch, you can opt for custom embroidery on the inner pockets. Choosing the font and color for the embroidery can be quite enjoyable.

The interior of the coat is designed "unconstructed," omitting the use of lining and interlining. This is the secret to its lightness and softness. Piping serves as a stylish accent on the inside.

Metal ventilations are placed under the arms, serving as breathability points. This is an iconic detail of the Spritumn Raglan Coat.

Spritumn Double Raglan Coat

Evoking the imagery of a double-breasted trench coat, the Spritumn Double Raglan Coat has been highly acclaimed by those seeking a coat with simpler details.

While it offers a more substantial appearance compared to the single-breasted version, many find themselves torn between the two when trying them on side-by-side due to their respective appeals. Contrary to its robust appearance, the coat is exceptionally light and comfortable to wear.

The double-breasted design features a voluminous Ulster collar, providing a distinctive classical elegance not commonly found in typical spring coats. When made with nylon material, the unique rippling effect at the stitched areas adds an appealing touch to the coat's overall ambiance.

Spritumn Chesterfield Coat

Among our overcoats, the Chesterfield coat receives the most orders. We've adapted this into the Spritumn Coat lineup. It's tailored generously to be worn over a jacket, but when tailored for a snug fit, it can be worn over a knit or shirt, serving as an alternative to a jacket, reminiscent of a shop coat or lab coat.

While the sten-collar coat and trench coat dominate the spring coat market, our Spritumn Chester presents a fresh style proposal, breaking the norm.

For our sample this time, we've used a recommended fabric which we'll introduce later: a nylon-cotton blend from the Olmetex company. The blend of the Chesterfield coat's elegant demeanor with the sporty vibe of the new fabric feels strikingly novel.

The front of the coat features a 3-button stance with the middle button fastened (a 3-roll-2 buttoning system). Although it's unlined, the collar roll is beautifully crafted. Interestingly, this Spritumn Chester adopts the same size front buttons (20mm) as you'd find on a jacket or suit. Typically, coats utilize larger front buttons, ranging from 23mm to 25mm. To achieve a sleek and agile appearance, we tailored it with jacket-sized buttons. We've made adjustments to the spacing between buttons and the front overlap to enhance its neat appearance. For buttons, there's an array of options, from hand-carved buffalo horn buttons (horn buttons) to nut buttons and shell buttons, allowing for personalized choices.

While traditional Chesterfield coats feature a refined pick-stitch that mimics hand stitching, the Spritumn Chester opts for a sporty machine stitch, which pairs perfectly with nylon-based fabrics.

We've subtly reimagined the breast pocket design as well. While our jackets and Chesterfield coats usually feature a curved "barchetta pocket", the Spritumn Chester deliberately employs a more understated patch pocket, giving it a clean, sporty edge.

However, given that it's made-to-order, clients have flexibility in design. Whether one prefers the barchetta pocket or even opts to forgo the chest pocket altogether for a more minimalistic look, the choice is yours.

Constructed without any horsehair or padding, the unconstructed design ensures a natural shoulder line, resulting in both a visually and physically lightweight feel. The sleeve cap features soft wrinkles similar to gathers, conveying a sense of authentic tailoring within its sporty appearance.

Much like the Chesterfield coat, the Spritumn Chester also boasts surgeon's cuffs, akin to those found on jackets and suits. The standard features either four buttons placed side by side or stacked (the image shows side-by-side). Customers can choose between functional buttonholes or faux buttonholes. While the standard Chesterfield coat typically has four buttons on the cuff, the Spritumn Chester offers the option to go casual with three or even a single button, which can be a stylish alternative.

The waist pockets have prominent machine stitching on the flaps. For these pockets, you can choose between our double welt pocket (with or without flaps) and the slanted patch pocket, similar to the one on the Spritumn Stand Collar coat.

With the flaps tucked in, it presents a clean and stylish appearance.

While traditional coats and jackets often employ a felt-like fabric known as a "collar stand" on the underside of the collar, the Spritumn Coat standardly adopts a "self-fabric" that matches the main body. This ensures the collar looks sleek even when turned up.

Inside the Spritumn Chester, the unconstructed design devoid of lining offers both a visual and tactile lightness. Reinforced piping, using the lining fabric, serves as a visual accent. Based on the fabric, customers can choose their preferred piping color.

Spacious inner pockets are featured on both sides. Upon request, custom embroidery, such as a name, can be added above the inner pocket.

On the reverse side of the buttons, "strength buttons" are attached. This reinforcement around the button's base ensures they remain securely attached while preventing wear and tear on the fabric.

I tried on the Spritumn Chester.

This time, I had it tailored almost to the exact dimensions of a jacket. While it's not impossible to wear another jacket underneath, it's more envisioned to be worn over a shirt or sweater, serving as an alternative to a jacket. On this day, I paired it with a custom-made wool polo.

I tucked in the waist pocket flaps and tried putting my hands inside. It certainly changes the look.

The coat reaches just above the knees. I wore it for an entire workday that involved a lot of standing and sitting, and it was entirely stress-free. For those who commute by train or drive, this length is recommended for its ease of movement.

A view from the back: While our shop's Chesterfield coats often come with a back belt, the Spritumn Chester has been designed more simply without one. Care was taken to ensure the waist shaping wasn't too pronounced, maintaining a relaxed and casual vibe.

The lapel width is set at 8.5cm, narrower than our regular jackets, creating a nimble impression. Even when the collar is raised, it maintains a neat appearance.

Whether you pair it with a shirt and tie for a dressier look, or match it with slim drawstring pants and a hoodie for a casual style, having a Spritumn Chester adds versatility to your spring and autumn ensembles.

Lacking inner linings and interfacing, it's incredibly lightweight! And, with the unique smoothness that nylon-cotton offers, there's no snagging, even without a lining. It can be folded compactly, making it easy to stash in a bag and swiftly drape on when needed.

Fabrics for the Spritumn Coat

We've meticulously curated top-recommended fabrics for the Spritumn Coat from Dressing Labo. We believe that these fabrics are rarely, if ever, featured in typical custom tailoring salons. Here are some highlights:

Olmetex
Composition: 74% Nylon, 26% Cotton - Available in 12 colors

From the renowned Italian fabric manufacturer, Olmetex, comes their Prestige Collection, known for high-quality outerwear materials. The fabric we've particularly recommended and used for the previously introduced Single Spritumn Raglan and Spritumn Chesterfield is from this collection.

A blend of nylon and cotton, this fabric combines the best of both materials, offering the lightweight nature and strength of nylon with the comfortable skin-feel of cotton. Its matte texture, complemented by a tastefully done wrinkle finish, is truly exquisite! The fabric undergoes a tumbler process post-weaving, providing it with a natural, uneven texture. One of its outstanding qualities is its excellent resilience, making it essentially wrinkle-free, which is a delightful feature.

In addition to classic shades like beige, khaki, and navy, there's a rich selection of spring-like pastel colors that are especially popular among our female clientele.

Furthermore, while this fabric does come with a water-repellent treatment, a key feature for the Spritumn Coat, it's worth noting that an eco-friendly, non-fluorinated water-repellent agent has been used, reflecting our commitment to the environment.

Olmetex Tailoring Examples

LIMONTA
100% Nylon - Available in 12 colors

When it comes to nylon, this fabric manufacturer is arguably unparalleled. Contrary to the previously mentioned Olmetex, Limonta produces a high-density, shiny, luxury nylon. We've used it in our navy Double Spritumn Raglan Coat.

Its color vibrancy is truly exceptional. With such rich hues, even darker colors like moss green, navy, and black don't appear heavy. The subtle orange shouldn't be overlooked either! When illuminated, the colors exhibit a unique depth, making them truly captivating.
When one thinks of Limonta, this series is certainly a testament to its beauty.

Nylon Solaro

Brown x Blue

Beige x Green

LIMONTA Tailoring Examples

British Millerain
100% Oiled Cotton

Lastly, let's touch upon this British fabric. British Millerain is an esteemed mill that could be described as synonymous with oiled cotton (also known as waxed cotton). Though one might consider it slightly heavy for a spring/summer coat, I personally adore its ambiance and felt compelled to introduce it! It's highly recommended for those fond of the rugged aura characteristic of brands like Barbour. This fabric consistently enjoys robust popularity in our store.

Despite its legacy in oiled cotton, the fabric has been impressively updated to suit modern living. While retaining the distinctive feel and water-resistance of oiled cotton, it avoids the typical smell and stickiness, making it more user-friendly. It's commuter-friendly too, suitable for train rides and other public transportation.

The fabric features earthy hues reminiscent of the British countryside.

This checkered pattern is undeniably stylish! As it's worn and naturally acquires creases, wear and tear, its appeal will only grow, enhancing its vintage charm.

British Millerain Tailoring Examples

What do you think of The Dressing Lab's Splitum Coat? If you own one, it's guaranteed to be a versatile piece, perfect for any season, weather, and occasion--whether formal or casual.

From conversations with our clients who have made a purchase, many mentioned the challenge of finding a quality yet simple spring coat in the market. Furthermore, with ready-made products, issues often arise--like the sleeves being too short or the coat's length being a tad too long or short. These concerns have frequently led them to choose custom-made options.

At our store, we have trial samples of the introduced Splitum Coat for you to try on. Additionally, we provide oversized fabric samples for you to drape over your shoulders and visualize the final product. We sincerely look forward to welcoming you to our store. If you have any inquiries regarding ordering the Splitum Coat, please reach out to us through our Contact form. For fittings or to book an in-store appointment, feel free to contact us via the Reservation form.