I would like to introduce The Dressing Lab's original custom coat: the "Spritumn Coat."

This versatile outerwear can be thrown on quickly during unexpectedly chilly spring days, carried as a raincoat alternative during the rainy season, and worn as a transitional piece from autumn into winter before moving on to wool coats or down jackets. The Spritumn Coat from The Dressing Lab is a truly useful seasonless outerwear piece.
Please note that it takes approximately 40 days from order to completion. Because it is light and easy to wear, I believe it will become a long-lasting staple in your wardrobe once you have one made.

What we aimed for was:
・Lightness
・Water repellency
・Wind resistance
・Breathability
・Versatility
・A refined feel

The result is a made-to-order coat that brings all of these qualities together: the Spritumn Coat. The name "Spritumn" is an original word created by combining "Spring" and "Autumn."

When we hear the term "spring coat," the season of spring naturally comes to mind. On the other hand, names such as trench coat or Staincollar Coat tend to refer more to the design than to the season. In English, the term "topcoat" can be used for a lightweight coat, but it may also remind some people of the top coat used for nails.

With that in mind, we created the original name "Spritumn Coat" to express the idea of a coat that is seasonless, can be worn in both spring and autumn, and works as a light layer against rain and wind. We also plan to introduce it as a series, incorporating familiar coat designs such as the Staincollar Coat and Chesterfield Coat into the Spritumn Coat lineup.

Before introducing the details of the Spritumn Coat, let me first touch on the idea of the "spring coat" and the trench coat, which is often associated with it.

Spring Coat Explained

The term "Spring Coat" is a Japan-specific expression. In English, a similar item may simply be called a lightweight coat or topcoat. As the name suggests, it is a light coat designed to be worn in spring. Typical examples include the Staincollar Coat and the trench coat. The color palette ranges from lighter shades such as beige and khaki to darker tones such as navy and black. Although it is called a spring coat in Japan, it is also often worn during transitional seasons, such as autumn into winter, when it is still too early for a wool coat but you want something light over your outfit. Cotton is the traditional material, but in recent years, nylon, polyester, and functional fabrics such as Gore-Tex have also become common.
Next, let me explain the trench coat, which is familiar to both men and women.

The Trench Coat Defined

In English, it is written as "Trench Coat." The word "trench" refers to the dugout defensive positions used in warfare. The trench coat is said to have its origins in World War I, when it was developed by the British military as outerwear to help soldiers endure the harsh conditions of trench warfare.

Among overcoats, the trench coat has one of the richest sets of functional details, reflecting its military background. The tabs on both shoulders, known as epaulettes, were designed for attaching rank insignia and also helped keep straps for guns or canteens from slipping off the shoulders. The flap on the right shoulder, called a gun flap, helped reinforce the area where the butt of a gun rested and also offered protection against recoil. The D-rings on the belt were originally used for carrying equipment.

Today, the trench coat is widely loved and worn by both men and women, but its roots are quite rugged and functional. Even though the sizing and styling have evolved to feel more unisex and fashionable, many of its original military details remain.

The classic fabric for a trench coat is cotton gabardine, a densely woven cotton fabric treated for water resistance. In an era before nylon, when rubberized fabrics were the main option for waterproofing, gabardine was revolutionary because it was lightweight while still helping protect against rain and wind. This remarkable fabric, which is still loved today, was invented by Thomas Burberry, the founder of Burberry, in the late 19th century.

Now, let me introduce the features of the Spritumn Coat.

Features of the Spritumn Coat:

Lightness

By using a large facing construction without interlining or full lining, the coat becomes exceptionally light. To enhance this lightness further, we have selected fabrics that are thin yet strong. Without interlining or full lining, the coat feels thin and soft. When made with lightweight fabrics such as nylon, it can also be folded compactly and placed in a bag. The inside seams are finished with piping for both beauty and durability. You can choose your preferred piping color from our range of high-quality cupro linings.

Water Repellency

To make the coat useful as a raincoat alternative, we have selected fabrics that are treated for water repellency during production. Especially during the rainy season, keeping this coat in your bag together with a folding umbrella can give you a reassuring sense of preparedness.

Wind Resistance

We have selected high-density fabrics that help block the wind. Although the coat is lightweight, it provides a good sense of protection and warmth. It is especially useful in early spring or late autumn, when wearing only a jacket feels a little too cold, but a brushed wool coat feels too heavy. It works beautifully as a transitional piece between winter coats and lighter garments.

Breathability

It is very useful for a coat to protect against wind and rain, but in Japan's humid climate, stuffiness inside the coat can become a concern. It is not comfortable if moisture builds up inside. For the Spritumn Staincollar Coat, we place metal ventilation eyelets under the arms to improve breathability. This detail is functional, but it also becomes a design accent. Another enjoyable point unique to made-to-order clothing is that you can choose the color of the metal parts.

Versatility

The Spritumn Coat is designed with a balance between casual and dressy, making it suitable for a wide range of occasions. Worn over a suit or jacket, it creates a refined yet relaxed dress style. Worn over casual items such as a T-shirt or hoodie, it gives the outfit a more elegant impression. Many customers appreciate it not only for business use, but also for how easily it can be worn on days off.

A Refined Feel

The sewing of this coat is handled by one of Japan's top tailoring factories, the same factory that makes our suits and other coats. Even though the coat has a sporty character, you can still feel the careful tailoring and precise stitching. It is designed for those who want to wear something for a long time, rather than something disposable, and who appreciate a refined made-to-order coat.

Each piece is made to order, so it can be adjusted to suit your body shape and preferences. We adjust the size and silhouette to create a coat made specifically for you. I especially recommend the Spritumn Coat for customers who have thought, "I want a spring coat, but I cannot find a ready-made design I like," or "I want something light to throw on, but ready-made sizes do not fit me well."

We are introducing original Spritumn Coats with these qualities as a series. We begin with the following two models.

Spritumn Raglan Coat
Spritumn Chesterfield Coat

Let me introduce the distinctive features of each model.

Spritumn Raglan Coat

This model can be considered the flagship of our Spritumn Coat series. Since its debut in December 2020 as a spring coat, it has become one of our popular items.

The basic design is based on our well-received Raglan Coat, and it is available in both single-breasted and double-breasted styles. Its defining features are relaxed raglan sleeves and an A-line silhouette, allowing the coat to be worn with an easy, flowing drape. To this base, we have added details unique to the Spritumn Coat.

The single-breasted version uses a classic Staincollar design. The Raglan Coat has roots in military outerwear and was designed with ease of movement in mind. With roomy sleeves and body, it does not feel restrictive even when worn over chunky knitwear or today's popular oversized outfits. Simply throwing on the Spritumn Raglan Coat can elevate your overall look.

If desired, a waist belt can also be added. When tied, the coat takes on a different character. The drape created at the back has been especially well received by customers.

The coat comes with two belt loops, allowing you either to tuck the belt ends into the pockets or let them hang naturally. When you leave the belt untied and wear the coat open, you can enjoy its breezy A-line silhouette moving lightly in the wind.

Each coat has inner pockets on both the left and right sides. As a personalized detail, you can add embroidery to the inner pocket area. Choosing the font and color for the embroidery is also an enjoyable part of the order.

The inside of the coat is made with an unconstructed specification, omitting lining and interlining. This is the secret behind its lightness and softness. The piping also adds a stylish accent inside the coat.

Metal ventilation eyelets are placed under the arms to help improve breathability. This is one of the signature details of the Spritumn Raglan Coat.

Spritumn Double Raglan Coat

With an atmosphere reminiscent of a double-breasted trench coat, the Spritumn Double Raglan Coat has been very well received by customers who want a coat with simpler details.

Compared with the single-breasted version, it has a more substantial appearance. However, when customers try both on, many find it difficult to choose because each has its own appeal. Despite its strong appearance, the coat is exceptionally light and comfortable to wear.

The double-breasted design features a generous Ulster collar, giving it a classical elegance that is not often found in ordinary spring coats. When made in nylon fabric, the slight rippling around the stitched areas creates a unique and attractive atmosphere.

Spritumn Chesterfield Coat

Among our overcoats, the Chesterfield Coat receives the most orders. We have adapted this design into the Spritumn Coat lineup. It can be tailored with enough room to wear over a jacket, but if made with a closer fit, it can also be worn over knitwear or a shirt as a jacket substitute, almost like a shop coat or lab coat.

While Staincollar Coats and trench coats are common choices in the spring coat category, our Spritumn Chesterfield Coat offers a fresh alternative.

For this sample, we used a recommended fabric introduced later on this page: a nylon-cotton blend from Olmetex. The combination of the elegant mood of the Chesterfield Coat and the sporty feel of this modern fabric creates a very fresh impression.

The front uses a three-button stance with the middle button fastened, also known as a three-roll-two style. Although the coat is unlined, the collar roll is beautifully shaped. Interestingly, this Spritumn Chesterfield uses 20 mm front buttons, the same size often used on jackets or suits. Coats usually use larger front buttons of around 23 mm to 25 mm, but to create a cleaner and lighter impression, we chose jacket-sized buttons. The button spacing and front overlap have also been adjusted to enhance the neat appearance. For the buttons, you can choose from options such as hand-carved buffalo horn buttons, nut buttons, and shell buttons.

Traditional Chesterfield Coats often use refined pick stitching that resembles hand stitching. For the Spritumn Chesterfield, however, we use a sportier machine stitch, which pairs very well with nylon-based fabrics.

We have also reinterpreted the breast pocket in a subtle way. Our jackets and Chesterfield Coats usually feature a curved Barchetta pocket, but the Spritumn Chesterfield intentionally uses a more understated patch pocket for a clean and sporty impression.

Because it is made to order, however, you can choose the design according to your preference. You may prefer a Barchetta pocket, or you may choose to omit the breast pocket altogether for a more minimal look.

Made without horsehair canvas or padding, the unconstructed design creates a natural shoulder line and gives the coat both visual and physical lightness. The sleeve head has soft wrinkles similar to shirring, giving the sporty appearance a subtle sense of tailoring.

Like our Chesterfield Coat, the Spritumn Chesterfield can also be made with surgeon's cuffs, similar to those found on jackets and suits. The standard design has either four buttons placed side by side or stacked, with the image showing the side-by-side version. You can choose functional or faux buttonholes. While the standard Chesterfield Coat usually has four buttons at the cuffs, the Spritumn Chesterfield can also be made more casually with three buttons or even a single button.

The waist pocket flaps feature visible machine stitching. For the waist pockets, you can choose double welt pockets, with or without flaps, or slanted patch pockets similar to those on the Spritumn Staincollar Coat.

When the flaps are tucked in, the coat has a cleaner and sharper appearance.

Traditional coats and jackets often use a felt-like fabric under the collar. For the Spritumn Coat, however, the standard specification uses self-fabric, matching the main body of the coat. This allows the collar to look clean even when turned up.

Inside the Spritumn Chesterfield, the unconstructed design without lining gives both visual and physical lightness. Reinforced piping, made using lining fabric, also works as an attractive accent. Depending on the fabric, you can choose your preferred piping color.

Large inner pockets are placed on both sides. Upon request, personalized embroidery, such as your name, can be added above the inner pocket.

Strength buttons are attached on the reverse side of the front buttons. These reinforce the base of the buttons, helping keep them securely attached while reducing stress on the fabric.

I Tried On the Spritumn Chesterfield.

This time, I had it made almost to the exact dimensions of a jacket. It is not impossible to wear another jacket underneath, but I mainly imagine wearing it over a shirt or sweater as a jacket substitute. On this day, I paired it with a made-to-order wool polo shirt.

I tucked in the waist pocket flaps and tried putting my hands in the pockets. This changes the look quite noticeably.

The length falls just above the knees. I wore it throughout a workday with a lot of standing and sitting, and it felt completely stress-free. For customers who commute by train or drive, I recommend this length because it is easy to move in.

This is the back view. While our Chesterfield Coats are often made with a back belt, the Spritumn Chesterfield is designed more simply without one. The waist shaping is kept moderate so that the coat maintains a relaxed and casual atmosphere.

The lapel width is set at 8.5 cm, which is narrower than our regular jackets, creating a lighter impression. Even when the collar is turned up, it looks neat.

Whether you pair it with a shirt and tie for a dressier look, or style it casually with slim drawstring pants and a hoodie, the Spritumn Chesterfield can add versatility to your spring and autumn wardrobe.

Because it has no full lining or interlining, it is incredibly light. Thanks to the smoothness of nylon-cotton fabric, it does not catch even without a full lining. It can be folded compactly, making it easy to place in a bag and throw on whenever needed.

Fabrics for the Spritumn Coat

We have carefully selected fabrics that we especially recommend for The Dressing Lab's Spritumn Coat. I believe these fabrics are not often found in typical custom tailoring salons. Let me introduce some highlights.

Olmetex
Composition: 74% Nylon, 26% Cotton - Available in 12 colors

From the renowned Italian fabric manufacturer Olmetex comes the Prestige Collection, known for high-quality outerwear materials. The fabric we especially recommend, and used for the Single Spritumn Raglan and Spritumn Chesterfield introduced above, comes from this collection.

This nylon-cotton blend combines the strengths of both materials: the lightness and durability of nylon with the comfortable touch of cotton. Its matte texture, together with the tasteful wrinkle finish, gives it a very appealing character. After weaving, the fabric undergoes a tumbling process, creating a natural, slightly uneven texture. It also has excellent resilience and is highly resistant to wrinkles, which is a very useful feature.

In addition to classic colors such as beige, khaki, and navy, there is also a rich selection of spring-like pastel tones, which are especially popular with our female customers.

This fabric is also treated for water repellency, which is an important feature for the Spritumn Coat. Another point worth noting is that an environmentally conscious, non-fluorinated water-repellent agent is used.

Olmetex Tailoring Examples

LIMONTA
100% Nylon - Available in 12 colors

When it comes to nylon, Limonta is a fabric maker with an exceptional presence. Unlike the Olmetex fabric introduced above, Limonta produces a high-density, lustrous luxury nylon. We used this fabric for our navy Double Spritumn Raglan Coat.

The color expression is truly beautiful. Even darker tones such as moss green, navy, and black do not look heavy. The subtle orange is also not to be overlooked. When the fabric catches the light, the colors show a unique depth that is very captivating. This series is a wonderful example of Limonta's beauty.

Nylon Solaro

Brown x Blue

Beige x Green

LIMONTA Tailoring Examples

British Millerain
100% Oiled Cotton

Lastly, let me introduce this British fabric. British Millerain is a renowned mill that can almost be described as synonymous with oiled cotton, also known as waxed cotton. It may feel a little heavy for a typical spring or summer coat, but I personally love its atmosphere and wanted to introduce it here. It is especially recommended for those who like the rugged character often associated with brands such as Barbour. This fabric has also remained very popular at our store.

Although it has the heritage of oiled cotton, the fabric has been updated impressively for modern life. It retains the distinctive feel and water resistance of oiled cotton, while reducing the smell and stickiness often associated with traditional versions. It is also easy to wear on trains and other forms of public transportation.

The fabric features earthy tones reminiscent of the British countryside.

This checked pattern is extremely stylish. As it is worn and naturally develops creases, marks, and character, I believe its charm will only deepen.

British Millerain Tailoring Examples

How does The Dressing Lab's Spritumn Coat sound to you? If you have one in your wardrobe, I believe it will become a very versatile piece that can be worn across seasons, weather conditions, and occasions, from dressy to casual.

In conversations with customers who have ordered this coat, many have said that it was difficult to find a simple, high-quality spring coat in ready-made collections. With ready-made coats, issues such as sleeves being too short or the length being slightly too long or too short are also common. These concerns are often what lead customers to choose made-to-order.

At our store, we have trial samples of the Spritumn Coat introduced here for you to try on. We also prepare large fabric samples so that you can drape them over your shoulders and imagine the finished coat more clearly. If you have any questions about ordering the Spritumn Coat, please contact us through our Contact form. If you would like to visit us for a fitting or consultation, please use the Reservation form. Visits to our store are by appointment only, so please make a reservation in advance. We would be happy to welcome you.