Bespoke Line "Bespoke Shoes"

We are pleased to introduce the exquisite bespoke shoes available for order at The Dressing Lab.

Introducing "YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER". These shoes are the creation of Mr. Yuki Shirahama, who is based in Kyoto. Along with his artisan partner, they continue to craft the highest quality bespoke shoes using the hand-sewn welted construction method.

Meeting with Mr. Shirahama

I had previously heard rumors from industry seniors and close business associates in the suit business about a highly skilled craftsman who makes beautifully fitting shoes. At the time, I never imagined that we would be carrying his creations in our store. However, after being introduced to Mr. Shirahama, he kindly visited The Dressing Lab, and in a whirlwind of events, we agreed to host regular order events.
I will introduce the technical skills of Mr. Shirahama, whom I had admired based on these rumors, as well as the allure and features of his bespoke shoes.

From dress shoes to slip-ons, side elastics, boots, and more, the array of designs is diverse, yet each piece is highly refined and truly beautiful.
If you would like to view the creations before reading further, please take a look at the gallery.
You can find Mr. Shirahama's work in the gallery at the bottom of this page.

*We have shoe samples tailored by Mr. Yuki Shirahama available for viewing at our store at all times. We would be delighted to accommodate even just a preliminary viewing, so please feel free to contact us.

Supreme Fitting Precision

Mr. Shirahama's shoes promise a satisfying fit right from the first pair and from the moment you start wearing them. It is commonly said in the bespoke shoe industry that one may need to order 2 to 3 pairs before finally obtaining a pair that meets satisfaction. However, Mr. Shirahama pours his heart and soul into making sure that the very first pair is perfectly crafted. The high-quality finish from the first pair is supported by his unique fitting techniques.

As this is a bespoke process, measurements are taken and at least two fittings are conducted using trial shoes. Impressively, the first fitting is done with a shoe made of transparent resin. This makes it immediately clear where there is excess space, where there is contact, and the state of the toes and heels.

Afterward, the second fitting is conducted with shoes made from the typical leather material. At this stage, the fit is already of a very high standard, allowing for fine-tuning before proceeding to the final stitching (completed product). In the rare case that the fitting precision is not satisfactory at this point, an additional trial fitting is conducted to ensure an impeccable final result. Even those with difficult foot shapes who have been unsuccessful with bespoke shoes elsewhere find resolution with Mr. Shirahama's fitting process. If you have given up on finding shoes that fit your feet, it is worth giving this a try.

Let me share my experience during the first fitting with the transparent trial shoe.
First, I tried on the transparent shoes while wearing socks. Mr. Shirahama can be seen in the photo on the right. He was dressed in a travel style as he was returning to Kyoto after this. His relaxed and natural demeanor, which is characteristic of a highly skilled craftsman, is one of Mr. Shirahama's charms.
By the way, during the initial measurement, he complimented me by saying, "The arches of your feet are naturally curved, which is a sign of healthy feet." I was quite pleased. He also mentioned that my left foot is considerably smaller compared to my right foot. Getting to know these aspects of one's own body is also part of the enjoyment of ordering custom-made items.

Next, I took off my socks and tried the shoes on again, this time barefoot. When worn barefoot, the areas of the skin that are in close contact with the shoe turn white. This allows for an even more precise understanding of which areas are making contact and how much pressure is being applied.

The shoes appeared long in comparison to the slimness of my pant cuffs, so we decided to reduce the excess length at the toes to make the shoes appear shorter. Similar to tailoring clothes, bespoke shoemaking is not just about the measurements of the feet. It involves looking at the body shape and the balance with clothing, and communicating preferences to create something that is just right. This is the essence of bespoke.

The measurements were recorded on the trial shoe made of resin. The next fitting will be with a leather trial shoe. I was surprised at how well the resin shoe fit during the first fitting; it almost felt like it could be worn as is.

Flexibility Backed by Expertise

When I asked Mr. Shirahama about his preferred style, often referred to as the "house style," he mentioned that if he had to choose, it would be an elegant French style. However, rather than imposing this style on his clients, Mr. Shirahama remains neutral and prioritizes the customer's desires. This is his guiding principle. Not only does he suggest shoe styles and designs that suit the customer, but he also tailors the specifications to each individual's preferences. Because he possesses the skills to realize these designs, customers can freely make requests. This is possible only because Mr. Shirahama has devoted himself to mastering the craft of British, Italian, and French shoemaking.

Take the soles of the shoes as an example.
There may be an image that bespoke shoes equal leather soles. Indeed, the leather soles crafted by Mr. Shirahama, complete with hand-made anti-slip grooves, are breathtakingly beautiful. However, customers can choose different materials such as rubber soles or lightweight EVA soles with cushioning similar to sneakers, according to their preferences. Even the insoles can be customized to have cushioning like that of sneakers if desired. His expertise and experience enable him to fulfill any request, which makes his approach incredibly flexible, not confined to classic or house styles. This is also one of the charms and strengths of the shoes made by Mr. Shirahama.

Patine

A hallmark of Mr. Shirahama's craft is "patine." When you hear the term "patine," many of you might think of a certain luxury maison, and rightly so, as patine is a leather dyeing technique that developed in France. The technique is characterized by layering dyes to create a unique, deep gradation. Mr. Shirahama, after training in bespoke shoemaking in Japan, traveled all the way to France to learn this patine technique, which speaks volumes about his passion.

On the other hand, while I have admired shoes with patine and thought them beautiful, I have never tried them. I perceived them as too flamboyant and prominent, which I believed wouldn't suit my style. I couldn't imagine myself wearing them.

So, when Mr. Shirahama suggested during our consultation for my first pair, "I think patine would absolutely suit your clothing, Mr. Hayashi! Let's go with patine!" I was taken aback. For a moment, I wondered how I could steer the conversation away from patine.

However, as I listened to Mr. Shirahama's explanation, I realized that my reluctance was due to a lack of understanding - a classic case of judging a book by its cover. The term "patine" tends to conjure images of shoes with a variety of colors, or with bright hues to highlight the patine, but Mr. Shirahama made me aware that patine could also be used for subdued dark colors.

Furthermore, the appeal of patine is not just in its visual beauty. Shoes with patine are remarkably supple, with an excellent fit that feels as though they are hugging your feet. My preconceived notions about patine were shattered, and I found myself eagerly wanting to experience it. With my initial hesitation gone, my first pair was easily decided to be a pair of semi-brogues with patine.

Below are some of the bespoke shoes on which Mr. Shirahama has applied patine. They are so understated and elegant that you might find yourself thinking, "Is this really patine?"

You can place an order for Mr. Shirahama's shoes at our store during the order-taking event, which is held once every four months. Alongside Mr. Shirahama, we will be pleased to suggest shoes that will accompany you throughout your life. We encourage you to visit Dressing Lab. While the purchase might not be considered affordable compared to ready-made shoes, and the waiting time for completion is about a year, the value of acquiring a pair of shoes that perfectly fit your style and can be worn for a lifetime is immeasurable. We believe you will look back and think, "I'm glad I placed that order when I did!"

Before placing an order - viewing and trying on samples are highly encouraged.

Before making a reservation for your order, would you like to take a look at the samples? Although we make efforts to convey the charm of Mr. Shirahama's shoes through images and text, the overwhelming aura and beauty of the actual product are beyond what words and pictures can capture.

We have several sample shoes crafted by Mr. Shirahama available in our store at all times. Additionally, we also have transparent prototype shoes used during the two fitting sessions, as well as leather prototype shoes, which will give you an idea of the fitting process. If the shoes fit, you are welcome to try them on.

Though these shoes hold immense value, they are a substantial investment. Placing an order right on your first visit can seem like a considerable leap. Some might say, "Looking at samples won't give me the real feel unless I actually place an order," but seeing the samples will undoubtedly inspire you to make an order and help you form a more concrete image of the final product. Our store welcomes visits for consultation and sample viewing only (by appointment). Please feel free to contact us.