Bespoke Line "Bespoke Shoes"

I would like to introduce the bespoke shoes available to order at The Dressing Lab.

These are bespoke shoes by "YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER." Mr. Yuki Shirahama is based in Kyoto, and together with his artisan partner, he continues to create exceptional bespoke shoes using hand-sewn welted construction.

Meeting with Mr. Shirahama

I had heard about Mr. Shirahama before from seniors in the industry and from close business associates in the suit business. They spoke of a highly skilled craftsman who made beautifully fitting shoes. At the time, I never imagined that we would one day be offering his shoes at our store. However, after being introduced to Mr. Shirahama, he kindly visited The Dressing Lab., and things moved forward very naturally. We soon agreed to hold regular order events together.
I would like to introduce not only the skill of Mr. Shirahama, whom I had long admired through these stories, but also the appeal and features of his bespoke shoes.

From dress shoes to slip-ons, side elastics, boots, and more, the range of designs is wide. Yet every pair has a highly refined and beautiful expression.
If you would like to see his work before reading further, please take a look at the gallery.
You can find Mr. Shirahama's work in the gallery at the bottom of this page.

*We always have sample shoes made by Mr. Yuki Shirahama available for viewing at our store. If you would like to see the samples before placing an order, we would be happy to welcome you by appointment. Please see the sample viewing information below.

Exceptional Fitting Precision

Mr. Shirahama's shoes are made with the aim of providing a satisfying fit from the very first pair and from the moment you begin wearing them. In the world of bespoke shoes, it is sometimes said that it may take two or three pairs before finally achieving a pair that truly satisfies the wearer. Mr. Shirahama, however, puts great care into making the first pair as complete as possible. This high level of finish from the first pair is supported by his unique fitting process.

Because this is a bespoke process, measurements are taken and at least two fittings are carried out using trial shoes. What is especially impressive is that the first fitting is done with shoes made from transparent resin. This makes it easy to see where there is extra space, where the shoes are making contact, and how the toes and heels are positioned.

After that, the second fitting is carried out with leather trial shoes. By this stage, the fit is already at a very high level, and fine adjustments are made before proceeding to the final hand-sewn welted shoes. In the rare case that the fit is not yet satisfactory, an additional trial fitting is carried out to ensure the final result is as precise as possible. Even customers with difficult foot shapes, or those who have not been satisfied with bespoke shoes elsewhere, may find a solution through Mr. Shirahama's fitting process. If you have given up on finding shoes that truly fit your feet, I believe it is well worth trying.

Let me share my own experience from the first fitting with the transparent trial shoes.
First, I tried on the transparent shoes while wearing socks. Mr. Shirahama can be seen in the photo on the right. He was dressed in a travel style, as he was returning to Kyoto after this. His relaxed and natural presence, which I feel is characteristic of a highly skilled craftsman, is one of his charms.
By the way, during the initial measurement, he told me, "The arches of your feet are naturally curved, which is a sign of healthy feet." I was quite pleased to hear that. He also told me that my left foot is considerably smaller than my right. Discovering these small details about one's own body is also one of the enjoyable parts of ordering bespoke items.

Next, I took off my socks and tried the shoes on again barefoot. When worn barefoot, the areas where the skin is in close contact with the shoe turn white. This makes it possible to understand even more precisely where the shoes are touching the foot and how much pressure is being applied.

The shoes looked slightly long compared with the slimness of my trouser hems, so we decided to reduce the extra length at the toe to make the shoes appear a little shorter. Just like tailoring clothing, bespoke shoemaking is not only about measuring the feet. It is also about looking at the body, the balance with clothing, and the customer's preferences, then shaping the final result accordingly. I feel that this is the true essence of bespoke.

The measurements were written directly on the resin trial shoes. The next fitting would be with leather trial shoes. I was surprised by how well the resin shoes already fit at the first fitting. They almost felt as if they could be worn as they were.

Flexibility Backed by Expertise

When I asked Mr. Shirahama about his preferred style, or what might be called his house style, he said that if he had to choose, it would be an elegant French style. However, he does not impose that style on his customers. Instead, he remains neutral and places the customer's wishes first. This is one of his guiding principles. He not only suggests shoe styles and designs that suit the customer, but also adjusts the specifications to suit each person's preferences. Because he has the skill to make these ideas a reality, customers can make requests freely. This is possible because Mr. Shirahama has devoted himself to studying and mastering British, Italian, and French shoemaking.

Take the soles, for example.
Some people may imagine that bespoke shoes should always have leather soles. The leather soles made by Mr. Shirahama, with hand-cut anti-slip grooves, are indeed breathtakingly beautiful. However, depending on your preference, you can also choose rubber soles or lightweight EVA soles with cushioning similar to sneakers. If desired, the insoles can also be made with sneaker-like cushioning. His knowledge and experience allow him to respond flexibly to many different requests, rather than being limited only to classic styles or a fixed house style. This flexibility is one of the charms and strengths of Mr. Shirahama's shoes.

Patine

One of the hallmarks of Mr. Shirahama's work is patine. When you hear the word "patine," many people may think of a certain luxury maison, and that is understandable. Patine is a leather-dyeing technique that developed in France. It is characterized by layering dyes to create a deep and unique gradation. After training in bespoke shoemaking in Japan, Mr. Shirahama went all the way to France to learn this patine technique, which shows how passionate he is about his craft.

On the other hand, although I had admired shoes with patine and thought they were beautiful, I had never tried them myself. I had the impression that they might be too flamboyant or too eye-catching for my own style. I simply could not imagine wearing them.

So, when Mr. Shirahama suggested during the consultation for my first pair, "I think patine would suit your clothing very well, Mr. Hayashi. Let's go with patine," I was honestly surprised. For a moment, I even wondered how I could gently steer the conversation away from patine.

However, as I listened to Mr. Shirahama's explanation, I realized that my hesitation came from not understanding patine properly. The word "patine" can make people imagine shoes with many colors, or bright colors used to emphasize the dyeing technique. Mr. Shirahama helped me understand that patine can also be used in quiet, dark tones.

In addition, the appeal of patine is not only its visual beauty. Shoes finished with patine can be remarkably supple, and the fit can feel as if the leather is gently wrapping around the feet. My previous impression of patine changed completely, and I found myself wanting to experience it. Once my hesitation disappeared, my first pair was naturally decided: a pair of semi-brogues with patine.

Below are some examples of bespoke shoes finished with patine by Mr. Shirahama. They are so understated and elegant that you may find yourself wondering, "Is this really patine?"

You can place an order for Mr. Shirahama's shoes at our store during order events, which are held about once every four months. Together with Mr. Shirahama, we would be happy to suggest shoes that can accompany you throughout your life. We would be delighted for you to visit The Dressing Lab. by appointment. Compared with ready-made shoes, they are certainly not inexpensive, and the waiting time for completion is about one year. Even so, the value of owning a pair of shoes that fits your feet, your style, and your life so beautifully is truly special. I believe that in the future, you will look back and think, "I am glad I placed that order when I did."

Before placing an order - viewing and trying on samples are highly encouraged.

Before making a reservation for an order event, you may wish to see the samples first. Although I try to convey the charm of Mr. Shirahama's shoes through images and text, the presence and beauty of the actual shoes are beyond what words and photographs can fully express.

We always have several sample shoes made by Mr. Shirahama available at our store. We also have the transparent prototype shoes used during the fitting process, as well as leather prototype shoes, so you can get a clearer sense of how the fitting process works. If the sample size fits you, you are welcome to try them on.

These shoes have great value, but they are also a significant investment. Placing an order on your first visit may feel like a big step. Some may say that looking at samples is not the same as actually placing an order, but seeing the samples will surely help you imagine the finished shoes more clearly and may also make you feel more excited about ordering. At The Dressing Lab., we also welcome visits for consultation and sample viewing only, by appointment. If you would like to see the samples, please make an appointment in advance.