RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirt Report – Part 1: Chore Jacket

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to present a behind-the-scenes look at a bespoke shirt commission from master shirtmaker Ryo Ikeda. Part 1 features our original chore jacket, introduced through the basted fitting process. We hope you enjoy it.

I first met Mr. Ryo Ikeda in 2022. At first, we only exchanged brief greetings at a party hosted by one of our business partners. Later, however, a mutual acquaintance, who is also a bespoke tailoring craftsman, introduced us more properly, saying, "I think your sensibilities would work very well with Mr. Hayashi's." At the end of 2022, I personally ordered my first bespoke shirt from Mr. Ikeda.

I was completely satisfied with the wonderful result, and naturally wanted to place another order. However, both Mr. Ikeda and I became busy, and some time passed without much contact. Then, in August of this year, we reconnected, and I asked him to make me another dress shirt as well as a chore jacket. At the same time, we decided to hold an order event at The Dressing Lab. featuring his work.

Let me introduce the fitting session for the bespoke chore jacket I requested.

A chore jacket is a type of workwear jacket with exterior pockets. The word "chore" means a task or piece of work in English, so it can be understood quite literally as a work jacket. Personally, I am more familiar with the term "coverall," but since "chore jacket" has become more widely used internationally, and is now also becoming common in Japan, I will use that term here.

The chore jacket I ordered has three patch pockets, each with a slightly larger inside pocket placed behind it. The stitching of the inside pockets appears around the exterior patch pockets, creating a distinctive design detail. This is one of the highlights of this piece.

At first, I wondered whether it would be too much to ask a shirtmaker to create this kind of jacket. However, Mr. Ikeda responded cheerfully, "That sounds interesting," which made me even more excited.

I love classic chore jackets, such as those found in French workwear, but they often look a little too casual for business settings. I had been searching through vintage pieces for years, but I could never find one that felt right in terms of size, color, and condition.

Meeting Mr. Ikeda felt like a rare opportunity. I wanted a chore jacket with the relaxed silhouette and patch pockets of a traditional work jacket, but made with elegant tailoring and high-quality fabric, so that it could be worn with a shirt and tie or dress slacks. I entrusted this long-held idea to Mr. Ikeda.

Finally, the long-awaited fitting session began. I was clearly excited.

The chore jacket I had been looking forward to is scheduled to be completed in about a month. I can hardly wait.

What did you think of this bespoke chore jacket made by a shirtmaker? Following my experiences with bespoke suits and bespoke shoes, this was another very fulfilling moment: entrusting a long-held idea to a skilled craftsman and seeing it gradually take shape. Once you experience bespoke, it becomes difficult not to be drawn further into its appeal.

Mr. Ikeda will also be joining us again for another order event, which will coincide with the delivery of my bespoke chore jacket and dress shirt.

In addition to dress shirts and casual shirts, orders will also be accepted for his signature items such as fatigue jackets and safari jackets. Of course, our original chore jacket will also be available to order.

If you have ever thought, "Could I order a shirt like this?" or "I wish I had a lightweight jacket like that -- could it be made?" please feel free to consult with us. Mr. Ikeda has deep knowledge not only of dress wear, but also of casual wear, workwear, and military-inspired garments. Bespoke may be a wonderful way to create versatile pieces that can be worn both for dress and off-duty occasions. We would be happy to hear from you.