RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirt Report – Part 1: Chore Jacket

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to present a behind-the-scenes look at a bespoke shirt commission from master shirtmaker Ryo Ikeda. Part 1 features our original chore jacket, introduced through the basted fitting process. We hope you enjoy it.

I first met Mr. Ryo Ikeda in 2022. Initially, we exchanged only brief greetings at a party hosted by one of our business partners. However, a mutual acquaintance--a bespoke tailoring craftsman--later introduced us more formally, saying, "I think your sensibilities would align well with Mr. Hayashi's." At the end of 2022, I personally requested my first-ever bespoke shirt from him.

Completely satisfied with the superb result, I wanted to place another order. But both Mr. Ikeda and I became busy and didn't stay in touch for a while. Then, in August of this year, we reconnected, and I asked him to make me another dress shirt and a chore jacket. At the same time, we decided to host an order event at The Dressing Lab featuring his work.

Let me share the fitting session for the bespoke chore jacket I requested.

A chore jacket is a type of workwear jacket with exterior pockets. The word "chore" means "task" or "work" in English, so it literally translates to a work jacket. Personally, I'm more familiar with the term "coverall," but since "chore jacket" has become the more commonly accepted term internationally--and now in Japan as well--I'll use that term here.

The chore jacket I ordered features three patch pockets, each accompanied by a slightly larger internal pocket. The stitching of the inner pockets is visible around the exterior patch pockets, which adds a distinct design touch--one of the highlights of this piece.

At first, I was hesitant to ask a shirt-making craftsman to create such a jacket, but Mr. Ikeda cheerfully responded, "That sounds interesting!"--which made me all the more excited.

I love classic chore jackets, like those in French workwear style, but they tend to look too casual for business use. I had been searching through vintage pieces for years, yet I never found the right one in terms of size, color, or condition.

Meeting Mr. Ikeda was truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I wanted a chore jacket with a traditionally relaxed silhouette and patch pockets, but crafted with elegant tailoring and high-quality fabric--something I could wear with a shirt and tie or dress slacks. I entrusted Mr. Ikeda with this long-held vision.

Finally, the long-awaited fitting session. My excitement was palpable.

The long-awaited chore jacket is scheduled for completion in a month. I can hardly wait!

What did you think of the bespoke chore jacket tailored by a master shirtmaker? Following my experiences with bespoke suits and bespoke shoes, this was another fulfilling moment where I entrusted my long-held vision to a skilled artisan and saw it come to life. Once you try bespoke, it's hard to go back.

Mr. Ikeda will also be returning for a trunk show in December, coinciding with the delivery of my bespoke chore jacket and dress shirt!

In addition to dress and casual shirts, you'll be able to order his signature items such as fatigue jackets and safari jackets. Of course, our original chore jacket will also be available for order.

If you've ever thought, "I wonder if I can order a shirt like this," or "I'd love a lightweight jacket like that--can it be made?" then we encourage you to consult with us. Mr. Ikeda's expertise spans not only dresswear but also casual, workwear, and military-inspired styles. Why not request a versatile, bespoke item suitable for both on and off-duty wear? We would be delighted to hear from you.