RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirts Part 2: The Dress Shirt

Tomohiro Hayashi

Here is the second part of our bespoke shirt project with artisan shirtmaker Ryo Ikeda. In this installment, we introduce the basted fitting of a classic dress shirt. We hope you enjoy it.

In Part 1, I introduced the fitting process for the chore jacket. This second installment focuses on the fitting for the bespoke dress shirt.

This was my second fitting for a bespoke dress shirt. The off-white shirt I am wearing with the brown suit on this day is actually the first shirt I ordered from Mr. Ikeda in December 2022. I was so pleased with it that, during our discussion about the chore jacket, I decided to order another one in a different color.

I had no complaints at all about the previous shirt. However, as expected from Mr. Ikeda, his shirtmaking had evolved even further over the past year and a half.

The previous shirt was beautifully made with precise machine stitching, but the updated version now incorporates hand stitching where softness is desired and machine stitching where durability is needed. He has also revised the shape of the armholes and sleeves.

It was inspiring to see his dedication to continually improving his craft, even though his skills are already at such a high level.

Now, let me return to the fitting itself. Based on the measurements from my previous shirt, the fit was already very accurate. This time, the main points were to reconfirm the overall length and check the newly modified shoulders and armholes.

We raised the arms forward to check whether there was enough ease in the sleeves.

Since I had lost a little weight, there was more room around the waist compared with the previous fitting. Mr. Ikeda suggested taking it in slightly. I asked him to leave a little extra room so that the shirt would not feel too tight.

I used to prefer a closer silhouette that followed the lines of the body, but recently I have come to like a more relaxed fit, where the shirt gently blouses when tucked in.

One of the true pleasures of bespoke is being able to have this kind of conversation with the craftsman during the fitting process.

We checked the length of the shirt. It is cut in a classic length that reaches below the hips.

We decided to reduce the fullness around the chest. Mr. Ikeda pinned the front side for adjustment.

The left side was adjusted in the same way. As you can see, the front panels follow the body beautifully. This shows how precisely the shoulder slope and body curvature have been considered.

I prefer the armhole to fit as closely as possible, so we discussed whether it could be made a little smaller. Since there was still room for adjustment, we decided to refine it further. These conversations, and this gradual process of refinement, are exactly what make bespoke shirts so enjoyable.

The shoulders, back, and cuffs feature gathered details, which are one of the appealing characteristics of Mr. Ikeda's shirts. We also recommend gathered details for our made-to-measure shirts.

The gathers on our made-to-measure shirts are beautifully finished, but only bespoke allows for such consistent gathering from end to end. Even at this fitting stage, the gathers already looked excellent. I am sure they will be even more beautiful in the finished shirt.

The collar is the same style I chose last time, because I liked it so much. It falls somewhere between a wide-spread collar and a regular collar, and it creates an ideal shape when worn with a tie.

That concludes the fitting. With this level of precision at the basted fitting stage, I have great confidence in the final result. The shirt is scheduled to be completed at the end of November, and I look forward to introducing the full appeal of Mr. Ikeda's dress shirts at that time.

I hope this report on the bespoke dress shirt fitting was helpful. Although I was already very satisfied with the first shirt, it became the foundation for an even more refined second shirt. I feel that this is something possible only with true bespoke. I was also deeply inspired by Mr. Ikeda's steady commitment to improving his craft.

We are pleased to announce that Mr. Ikeda will be joining us again for another order event, which will coincide with the delivery of the chore jacket and dress shirt I ordered.

In addition to dress shirts and casual shirts, orders will also be accepted for his signature items such as fatigue jackets and safari jackets. Naturally, our original chore jacket will also be available to order.

If you have ever thought, "Could I order a shirt like this?" or "I wish I had a light jacket like that," please feel free to consult with us. Mr. Ikeda has deep knowledge not only of classic dress wear, but also of casual wear, workwear, and military-inspired garments. Bespoke may be a wonderful way to create versatile pieces that bridge both dress and off-duty styles. We would be happy to hear from you.