RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirts Part 2: The Dress Shirt

Tomohiro Hayashi

Here is the second part of our bespoke shirt project with artisan shirtmaker Ryo Ikeda. In this installment, we introduce the basted fitting of a classic dress shirt. We hope you enjoy it.

In Part 1, we shared the fitting process of the chore jacket. This second installment focuses on the fitting for the bespoke dress shirt.

This is my second bespoke dress shirt fitting. The off-white shirt I'm wearing with the brown suit on this day is actually the first shirt I commissioned from Mr. Ikeda back in December 2022. I was so pleased with it that I decided to request another one in a different color during our discussion about the chore jacket.

I had no complaints whatsoever about the previous shirt, but as expected of Mr. Ikeda, he had refined his shirtmaking techniques even further over the past year and a half.

While the previous shirt was beautifully crafted with precise machine stitching, the updated version now incorporates hand-stitching where softness is desired and machine stitching where durability is required. He also revised the shape of the armholes and sleeves.

It was inspiring to witness his dedication to evolving his craftsmanship--continually striving to improve even with such exceptional skills.

That said, let's get back to the fitting. Based on the measurements from my previous shirt, the fit was already spot on, requiring only a reconfirmation of the overall length and an evaluation of the newly modified shoulders and armholes.

We raised the arms forward to ensure there was enough ease in the sleeves.

Since I've lost a bit of weight, there was more room around the waist compared to the last fitting. Mr. Ikeda suggested taking it in slightly. I requested to leave a bit of extra room so it wouldn't be too tight.

I used to prefer a closer silhouette that followed the contours of the body, but now I lean toward a more relaxed fit that allows the shirt to gently billow when tucked in.

One of the true joys of bespoke is the conversation with the craftsman during the fitting process.

We checked the length of the shirt--it's cut in a classic length that reaches below the hips.

We decided to reduce fullness at the chest. Mr. Ikeda pinned the front side for adjustment.

The left side was adjusted in the same way. As you can see, the front panels follow the body beautifully--a testament to the precise shoulder slope and curvature.

I prefer a closely fitting armhole wherever possible, so we discussed the possibility of reducing the armhole size further. Since there was still room to do so, we decided to make the adjustment. These conversations--this gradual refinement--is exactly what makes bespoke shirts so enjoyable.

The shoulders, back, and cuffs feature the signature gathered details characteristic of our shop. We also recommend gathered detailing for our made-to-measure shirts.

While the gathers on our MTM shirts are beautifully done, only bespoke allows for perfectly consistent gathering from end to end. Even in this fitting stage, the gathering already looks excellent--and it will be even more beautiful in the finished piece.

The collar is the same style I chose last time because I liked it so much. It's a collar that falls somewhere between a wide spread and a regular collar, and it provides an ideal shape when worn with a tie.

That concludes the fitting. With this level of precision at the basted stage, I have every confidence in the final outcome. The shirt is scheduled for completion at the end of November, and I look forward to showcasing the full appeal of Mr. Ikeda's dress shirts at that time.

We hope this report on the fitting of our bespoke dress shirt was informative. Even though I was very satisfied with the first shirt, it served as a stepping stone for an even more refined second piece--something only possible with true bespoke. I was also deeply inspired by Mr. Ikeda's unwavering drive to continue improving his craft.

We're excited to announce that Mr. Ikeda will be joining us again in December for a trunk show, coinciding with the delivery of the chore jacket and dress shirt I commissioned!

In addition to dress and casual shirts, orders will also be accepted for his signature items such as fatigue jackets and safari jackets. Naturally, our original chore jacket will also be available to order.

If you've ever thought, "Could I order a shirt like this?" or "I wish I had a light jacket like that," please don't hesitate to consult us. Mr. Ikeda is highly knowledgeable not only in classic dress wear but also in casual, workwear, and military-inspired garments. Bespoke might be just the right avenue for creating versatile pieces that bridge both formal and off-duty occasions. We'd love to hear from you.