Bespoke Shirts

I would like to introduce the bespoke shirts available at The Dressing Lab., made by shirtmaker Ryo Ikeda.

With Mr. Ikeda, you can order not only bespoke dress shirts and casual shirts, but also lightweight jackets based on traditional shirtmaking techniques, including chore jackets and safari jackets.

I have had bespoke shirts made by Mr. Ikeda myself, and through wearing them repeatedly and washing them many times, I have come to appreciate the quality of his work firsthand.

Of course, one of the pleasures of a bespoke shirt is the fit created specifically for your body, but its appeal goes well beyond that. Different sewing methods are used depending on whether a particular area calls for softness or greater strength, and the construction is carefully considered according to the fabric and intended use. Many of the details that make a shirt comfortable and enjoyable to wear for a long time are hidden from view.

Here, I would like to share what I have discovered about bespoke shirts through having them made and actually wearing them myself.

How I Met Mr. Ryo Ikeda

I first met Mr. Ikeda in 2022. At first, we simply exchanged greetings at a party hosted by one of our business partners. Later, a mutual acquaintance who is also a bespoke craftsman introduced us more formally, and at the end of 2022 I personally commissioned my first bespoke shirt.

I was extremely pleased with the finished shirt and had hoped to order another, but we were both busy and did not see each other for some time. When we eventually reconnected, I commissioned another dress shirt as well as a chore jacket, and we also began accepting his bespoke shirt orders regularly at The Dressing Lab.

Our relationship with Mr. Ikeda began with me first experiencing his work as a customer myself and becoming convinced of its quality.

Related Articles

Bespoke Shirt Review: Dress Shirt
A review of the comfort and tailoring details I experienced after wearing and washing the finished shirt repeatedly.

RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirts Part 2: Dress Shirt
A look at the fitting process and how Mr. Ikeda and I gradually refined the shirt toward the fit I had in mind.

RYO IKEDA Bespoke Shirts Part 1: Chore Jacket
A chore jacket created through the techniques of a shirtmaker, and a look at the fitting process as we shared ideas and gradually brought the garment to life.

The Fitting Experience Unique to Bespoke

For a bespoke shirt, measurements are first taken and then a basted fitting is prepared using an unbleached cotton cloth known as sheeting. The fitting garment is placed on the customer, and details such as sleeve length, body length, width, shoulder area, and armholes are checked one by one as the final shape is refined.

For my second bespoke dress shirt, Mr. Ikeda began with the measurements from my first shirt, then adjusted them again to reflect changes in my body and my current preferences.

I used to prefer a silhouette that followed the body very closely, but these days I like a little more room, with enough fullness for the fabric to blouse gently when the shirt is tucked in. At the same time, I still prefer the armholes to fit as compactly as possible, so I asked Mr. Ikeda whether we could make them even smaller.

Of course, a bespoke shirt should fit the body well, but I believe one of the most interesting aspects of bespoke is being able to discuss not only measurements, but also the kind of shirt you want to wear now, and gradually turn that idea into a finished garment.

This is true of bespoke in general, but the time spent talking with the craftsman during fittings and refining the garment step by step is also part of the enjoyment.

A Rational Approach to Shirtmaking That Continues to Evolve

One of the things I find particularly interesting about Mr. Ikeda's approach is that he is not constrained by traditional specifications or fixed ideas about how a high-quality shirt is supposed to be made.

The first shirt he made for me was constructed primarily with extremely fine machine stitching. When I commissioned my next shirt about a year and a half later, I found that his approach to construction had evolved further.

He uses hand stitching where softness or a small degree of flexibility is desirable, and strong machine stitching where greater strength is required. Handwork is not used simply for the sake of being handmade. Instead, he selects the method that best suits each part of the garment, with both comfort and durability in mind.

Even though he already makes beautiful shirts, Mr. Ikeda does not simply remain satisfied with his existing methods. He continues experimenting with approaches he believes may produce an even better result and updates his tailoring accordingly. This attitude is another aspect of his work that I find particularly appealing.

Details That Contribute to Comfort

Take the armhole, for example. Near the shoulder, a generous seam allowance is retained to provide strength, while it gradually becomes narrower toward the underarm. This helps reduce the amount of seam allowance pressing against the body beneath the arm when the arms are lowered.

Another characteristic is that the sleeves and body are sewn separately before the sleeves are set into the garment at the final stage. This helps prevent the seam allowances of the sleeve and body from becoming overly concentrated in one place beneath the arm, and it also allows the sleeves to be set according to the natural direction of the wearer's arms.

Each of these may appear to be only a small difference. However, I believe it is the accumulation of such small considerations that creates greater comfort when the shirt is worn.

I also feel that Mr. Ikeda's character as a shirtmaker can be seen in the collar.

For my shirt, I requested a slightly compact wide-spread collar. It has a soft appearance while retaining a certain sharpness, holds a tie beautifully, and works particularly well with the jackets I already own. It has become one of my favorite collar shapes.

Rather than simply choosing from predetermined collar styles, bespoke allows you to develop a shape specifically for yourself, taking into account the suits and jackets you usually wear, your ties, and the overall impression you would like to create.

Another aspect from which I learned a great deal was the interlining used in the collar and cuffs.

I had previously assumed that a finely made shirt should use a floating, non-fused interlining. So I was surprised when Mr. Ikeda suggested a fusible interlining. However, after having the shirt made and wearing and washing it repeatedly, I came to understand that the most appropriate choice can vary depending on the fabric and the desired result.

Having a craftsman suggest fabrics or specifications that I might not have chosen myself, and then experiencing them through actual wear, gradually expands the way I think about clothing. I believe this is another great pleasure of bespoke.

Bespoke Shirts Are About More Than Simply Fitting the Body

When people hear the word "bespoke," many may imagine a garment that fits the body extremely closely.

Of course, fit is important, but that does not simply mean making a shirt as slim as possible. By allowing sufficient room where it is needed and adjusting the garment according to factors such as the forward or backward balance of the body and the slope of the shoulders, the fabric can fall naturally along the wearer's form.

The shirt can be close where it should be, while still providing enough room where movement requires it. It feels comfortable to wear, yet looks clean and balanced when standing.

I believe this kind of comfort is something that can be achieved through a bespoke shirt made not simply from measurements, but by observing the wearer's actual body and posture.

From Dress Shirts and Casual Shirts to Jackets

In addition to classic dress shirts and casual shirts, Mr. Ikeda can also discuss a wide variety of other garments with you.

I personally commissioned a chore jacket, something I had wanted for some time but had struggled to find in ready-to-wear clothing in exactly the form I had in mind.

I wanted a jacket that retained the straight, relaxed character of traditional workwear, but that could also be worn with a shirt and tie or tailored trousers thanks to its refined fabric and careful construction. I discussed these ideas with Mr. Ikeda, and together we gradually shaped them into the finished garment.

Mr. Ikeda has a deep understanding not only of dress clothing, but also of casual wear, workwear, and military clothing, which allows him to respond to this kind of open-ended request.

In addition to dress shirts and casual shirts, you can also order chore jackets, safari jackets, jungle fatigue jackets, shirt jackets, and other lightweight jacket styles.

"I would like to make a shirt like this."
"I am looking for a lightweight jacket like this, but I wonder if it can be made."

Please feel free to begin with an idea like that and discuss it with us.

About Our Bespoke Shirt Order Events

Mr. Ryo Ikeda regularly visits The Dressing Lab. for bespoke shirt order events.

＜Lineup＞
Dress Shirts, Casual Shirts
Chore Jackets, Safari Jackets
Jungle Fatigue Jackets
Various Shirt Jackets

＜Fabrics＞
Cotton, Linen
Lightweight Wool, Cashmere, etc.

I first came to appreciate the appeal of bespoke shirts by having them made and wearing them myself.
If you are interested, we would be very happy to begin simply by discussing the fabrics and tailoring with you. For information about upcoming order event dates, prices, or delivery times, please feel free to contact us.