A Band Collar Polo Shirt Designed to Fit and Enhance a Well-Trained Physique

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to present a bespoke polo shirt created for our client. Featuring a band collar, a fit designed to complement a well-trained physique, and a range of distinctive details, this piece reflects a highly personalized approach. We hope it serves as a helpful reference for those seeking their ideal polo shirt.

Background of the Order

Mr. S had been working in the United States and recently returned to Japan after several years. After returning, he realized that he did not have much clothing suitable for Japan's summer -- something casual, yet still presentable enough for a variety of occasions.

A polo shirt is one of the most familiar summer options for business-casual wear. However, Mr. S had difficulty finding ready-made polo shirts that fit his physique, which he had developed through regular workouts. He was also unable to find a polo shirt with the band collar he had in mind. While searching online, he discovered our store.

Fabric

The fabric selected is one of the signature materials for our polo shirts: 100% cotton piqué from Caccioppoli of Italy. It is available in 14 colors, ranging from classic tones such as black, navy, and brown to brighter shades such as red and turquoise blue. It feels comfortable against the skin, and its texture becomes even more appealing with repeated washing. From this range, Mr. S selected green.

One concern with 100% cotton knit fabrics is shrinkage after washing. Even with a made-to-order garment, significant shrinkage could affect the intended fit.
To minimize this, we incorporate a pre-washing process before sewing. Once the fabric arrives from Italy, we wash and air-dry it in advance so that much of the initial shrinkage occurs before it is sent to the factory. This helps reduce changes in size after the garment is completed.

Finished Garment

The low band collar gives the polo shirt a relaxed feel, somewhat similar to a Henley-neck T-shirt. The placket is kept narrow for a clean appearance.
The only ready-made polo shirt Mr. S had previously particularly liked was a band-collar model from a French brand that he purchased overseas. This time, both the fabric and design were selected with that favorite piece in mind.

The buttons are made from natural brown shell, which pairs beautifully with the green fabric. Although the design itself is simple, the quality of the fabric and buttons, together with careful construction, gives the polo shirt a more refined appearance.

Fitting

Mr. S tried on the finished garment. The overall length and sleeve length were adjusted to suit his preference for a cleaner look, and the polo pairs very well with the slim cotton trousers he was wearing that day.

The measuring process was also slightly different from usual. Normally, we take body measurements such as shoulder width, chest, waist, and hips, and then add an appropriate amount of ease according to the customer's preference.
Mr. S, however, preferred a fit that closely followed his trained physique, showing the body line while maintaining a clean silhouette. We therefore set the shoulder width, chest, and sleeve opening more closely than we normally would in relation to his actual body measurements. This kind of close fit is possible thanks to the natural stretch of the piqué fabric.

Made-to-order clothing is about creating a garment in the size and fit the customer wants. However, depending on whether the desired fit is relaxed, regular, or close-fitting, the ideal measurements and resulting silhouette will be different. I feel that this is both one of the challenges and one of the most interesting aspects of made-to-order clothing.

To determine the fit around the chest and shoulders, Mr. S tried on sample polo shirts in different sizes while we compared the measurements and discussed his preferences. Through this process, we arrived at the fit he had in mind -- neither too tight nor too loose.

The carefully selected band collar suits Mr. S's sporty and fresh appearance very well. With repeated washing and wear, I believe the garment will settle even more naturally into his body.

The width of the sleeve opening was also adjusted to his preference. With short-sleeve polo shirts and shirts, both the sleeve length and opening width have a significant effect on the overall appearance.
In Mr. S's case, the sleeve opening was intentionally made narrower in relation to his upper arm, emphasizing his physique while maintaining a clean appearance. The sleeve length was set just above the biceps. When worn, the sleeve opening stretches slightly and sits closely around the upper arm, creating the silhouette he wanted.

An initial was subtly embroidered on the left sleeve in a color that blends naturally with the fabric.

Mr. S was very pleased with the finished polo shirt and wore it immediately to his next appointment. When we followed up later, we were happy to hear that it had been well received by his family and those around him, and that he continues to wear it regularly. Mr. S, thank you very much for kindly cooperating with the photography and interview.