Bespoke Shoes Trunk Show Report

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to share scenes from our bespoke shoes trunk show. This article highlights unique features of bespoke shoes, including detailed measuring sessions and beautifully crafted fitting samples. We hope it provides helpful insight for those considering their first pair of bespoke shoes.

Here are the fitting samples. The two pairs in the back are made of transparent resin and are used for the first fitting. The three pairs in the front are leather samples for the second fitting onward. For customers who have requested a patina finish, we provide fitting shoes with the actual patina applied so they can check the color in advance.

We would like to introduce some customer fitting scenes.

Mr. I

Due to his profession, Mr. I regularly wears dark suits with black leather shoes. He wears leather shoes almost every day but has long struggled with foot issues. Although he had tried numerous ready-to-wear and made-to-order shoes, none truly solved the problem, and he had been enduring discomfort. After having a shirt and tie made at our store, he decided to try our bespoke shoes as well.

This is his very first fitting, prior to the trial shoe fitting stage.

The artisan carefully examines his feet by hand. His foot outline is traced on the sheet of paper underneath to record his foot shape.

This unique posture--with the artisan sitting with his hips on the floor--is Mr. Shirahama's signature fitting style.

A specialized measuring device is used to assess the height and structure of the feet.

The foot circumference is measured with a tape. This allows for a three-dimensional understanding of the foot's volume.

Next, we move on to the left foot. As is the case with many people--including myself--the left and right feet often differ significantly in length and shape.

During the measurements, we also conduct a thorough interview. Mr. I appeared both excited and relieved, anticipating that he might finally be free from his long-standing foot issues. We plan to conduct his first trial fitting with transparent resin shoes during our order event in four months.

After selecting the design and leather, it was decided that we would create the ultimate minimalist bespoke shoes: a black calfskin, five-eyelet, one-piece plain toe.

Mr. K

Mr. K is also having a bespoke suit made at our store. He believes in owning a few truly exceptional items, whether it's clothing or shoes. While he was initially considering buying several pairs of ready-to-wear shoes that fit relatively well, he discovered our YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER trunk show and visited us for a preview. This led him to commission a pair of bespoke shoes instead of ready-to-wear options.

This is Mr. K's second fitting. He was originally considering black or dark brown calf, but to our great honor, he took a liking to my own bespoke shoes with a patina finish and decided to have his pair finished in a similarly deep brown patina.

If you look closely at this fitting sample, you'll notice the decorative perforations (broguing) are different on each shoe. Since Mr. K was undecided about the broguing, Mr. Shirahama created asymmetrical shoes to help him visualize the difference. This kind of meticulous care is a hallmark of bespoke craftsmanship.

The right shoe, with broguing only along the cap seam, is a "punched cap toe," while the left, with broguing on the quarters and heel as well, would be considered a "quarter brogue." My own first bespoke pair featured the design seen on the left--quarter brogue.

Choosing between minimalist elegance and visual interest--both options are beautiful, and Mr. K found it a tough decision.

He dropped by after work for the fitting--it was clear how much he had been looking forward to this day.

Mr. Shirahama values communication with each client above all else. His commitment to carefully confirming and explaining every detail is truly admirable, and I learn from it myself.

We checked the fitting on our in-store fitting stand.

Nightfall in Ginza set a great mood--it might look like we were heading off for a drink, but of course, that wasn't the case. Mr. K walked around Kyobashi Park in his fitting shoes. Only by actually walking in them can we truly assess their fit.

Even though it's just a fitting shoe, the way the creases form is already looking great. For the final version, the sole will be black, giving the entire shoe a more refined impression.

After walking for a while, we checked if the leather caused any discomfort or if the length of the toe cap needed adjustment.

To finalize minor adjustments and perforation details, a third fitting will be scheduled for the next trunk show. The second fitting already had a high level of completion, so it's exciting--and almost scary--to think how much more refined the final product will be.

Mr. H

Mr. H placed an order for a highly individual and stylistic pair of shoes. He had a clear vision of the type of shoes he wanted, which he shared in detail during our consultation. Mr. Shirahama then turned that vision into a design sketch.

This was his second fitting: a three-eyelet V-front derby. Interestingly, Mr. H also selected a dark brown patina finish. Out of the bespoke shoe projects underway at Dressing Lab, three now feature patina--what an interesting coincidence!

Can you spot the intentional difference between the left and right shoes in this fitting?

The correct answer is the leather used for the eyelet tabs. The base is a dark brown patina, but Mr. H's concept was to change the texture only for the eyelet sections. Though it's a derby, the look evokes the charm of a saddle shoe--truly stylish. The right foot features bison leather, while the left is made from sharkskin.

We decided to proceed with the sharkskin version. Although it's just a sample, using the actual leather for the fitting is both costly and time-consuming, but seeing the difference so clearly makes it well worth the effort.

Time to try them on--expectations are high.

It was a beautiful day--perfect for a fitting. We had Mr. H walk around Kyobashi Park in his fitting shoes. There was no end to our conversation as we walked together.

Mr. Shirahama observing the movement of the shoes.

The patina color looked stunning under the sunlight. The contrasting texture on the eyelet tabs also stood out. The elegant silhouette was simply gorgeous.