Bespoke Shoes: The “V-Front Derby”

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to introduce a pair of bespoke shoes custom-made for our client. Featuring a V-front design crafted with contrasting materials and finished with a patina, this pair truly encapsulates the unique pleasures of bespoke shoemaking. We hope you enjoy taking a closer look.

We are pleased to introduce the bespoke V-front derby shoes made for Mr. H by YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER.

First, what exactly is a V-front derby? As the name suggests, "V-front" refers to the quarters forming a V shape when viewed from the front. "Derby" refers to open-laced shoes, in contrast to "Oxfords," which are closed-laced.

Mr. H had long hoped to commission a fully bespoke pair of shoes from Mr. Yuki Shirahama, and he finally took the opportunity to do so. He already had a clear concept in mind, including the idea of making the quarters from a contrasting material in a V-front derby style.

He also had specific preferences for the shape of the toe and quarters. Through detailed consultations, Mr. Shirahama translated these ideas into sketches. During the fitting stage, they refined the fit and balance, adjusted the shape of the quarters, and finalized the material. The completed bespoke shoes are now ready. You can also view the fitting process in this blog article.

Here is the finished, fully bespoke V-front derby made exclusively for Mr. H.

The upper features a hand-dyed patina finish. Rather than coloring the shoes after construction, layers of dye are applied to a pale leather base during the making process, usually around four times, to achieve the desired tone. At first glance, the shoes appear dark brown, but under the light they reveal a beautiful marbled effect with rich tonal variation. The ability to customize not only the design, but also the color, is one of the defining appeals of patina-finished bespoke shoes.

The patina process requires patience: applying the dye, allowing it to rest, checking the color, and applying it again. However, the finished result is well worth the time and effort. Mr. Shirahama highly recommends this finish not only for its beautiful appearance, but also because the dyeing process can make the leather feel softer and more comfortable. Over time, the natural aging of the patina adds further depth and character, which is part of its unique charm.

The beautifully sculpted toe reflects Mr. H's precise vision, brought to life through bespoke craftsmanship.

The shoes have three eyelets, and the eyelet tabs, or quarters, are made from dark brown sharkskin. The contrast with the patina-finished upper creates a striking yet elegant impression.

The finely detailed and exceptionally durable hand-sewn welt shows the beauty of traditional craftsmanship.

The interior details are equally fascinating.

The outer side of the shoe is carefully scooped to prevent contact with the ankle bone.

The sole features a hand-carved pattern that also works as an anti-slip detail. Each line is carved by hand using fragments of glass.

Fitting Session

And now, the moment arrived for Mr. H to try them on.

His immediate reaction was, "Amazing," and "These look fantastic." Thanks to Mr. Shirahama's careful adjustments to the fit and balance, the shoes felt remarkably comfortable and suited Mr. H's expectations beautifully.

Perhaps reflecting Mr. H's own personality, the shoes have a refined elegance. They are visually striking, yet never aggressive. Whether with shoes or clothing, I feel that the ability to reflect the customer's character in the finished piece is one of the most compelling aspects of bespoke craftsmanship.

The design of the eyelet tabs, or quarters, harmonizes beautifully with the overall silhouette.

We held the shoes under natural sunlight to observe the color variation. When exposed to strong light, the patina reveals an impressive level of transparency and depth.

Dark brown V-front derbies can be paired with casual outfits, jacket-and-trouser combinations, and even formal suits. Mr. H mentioned that he was looking forward to wearing them and was already planning his first outing, including time to break them in gently.

Mr. H's Impressions

"The final result exceeded all expectations," he said, expressing his delight. He spent about an hour trying on the shoes, viewing them from different angles in the mirror, while we discussed care tips and even ideas for his next pair. It was clear that he was truly pleased with the result.

For his next commission, he is considering an Oxford style with closed lacing, possibly using the same patina finish or perhaps exploring goat suede.

Mr. H, thank you again for this wonderful bespoke shoe commission. It was truly an honor to help bring your long-held vision to life. Your unique concept for the V-front design was both original and inspiring. Both Mr. Shirahama and I thoroughly enjoyed working with you, and we look forward to seeing you again soon.