Bespoke Shoes: The “V-Front Derby”

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to introduce a pair of bespoke shoes custom-made for our client. Featuring a V-front design crafted with contrasting materials and finished with a patina, this pair truly encapsulates the unique pleasures of bespoke shoemaking. We hope you enjoy taking a closer look.

We are pleased to present the bespoke V-front derby shoes crafted for Mr. H by YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER.

First, what exactly is a V-front derby? As the name suggests, the "V-front" refers to the quarters forming a V-shape when viewed from the front. The term "derby" refers to open-laced shoes, in contrast to "oxfords," which are closed-laced.

Mr. H had long envisioned commissioning full bespoke shoes from Mr. Yuki Shirahama, and finally took the opportunity to do so. He had a clear concept in mind, including a desire for the quarters to be made from a contrasting material in a V-front derby style.

He also had specific preferences for the toe and quarter shapes. Mr. Shirahama translated these ideas into sketches through detailed consultations. During the fitting stage, they made refinements to the fit and balance, adjusted the quarter shape, and finalized the material. The completed bespoke shoes are now ready. You can also view the fitting process in this blog article.

Here is the finished, fully bespoke V-front derby made exclusively for Mr. H.

The upper features a hand-dyed patina finish. Rather than coloring the shoes after construction, layers of dye are applied--typically four times--onto a pale leather base during the making process to achieve the desired tone. At first glance the shoes appear dark brown, but under the light they reveal a beautiful marbled effect with rich tonal variations. This ability to customize not only the design but also the color is one of the defining appeals of patina-finished bespoke shoes.

The patina process requires patience--applying, resting, checking, and reapplying--but the end result is well worth the effort. Mr. Shirahama highly recommends this finish not only for its stunning appearance, but also because the dye softens the leather, improving comfort and resistance to water. Over time, the natural aging of the patina adds depth and character, which is part of its unique charm.

The beautifully sculpted toe reflects Mr. H's precise vision, realized through bespoke craftsmanship.

Featuring three eyelets, the eyelet tabs (quarters) are crafted from dark brown sharkskin. The contrast with the patina-finished upper creates a striking yet elegant effect.

Finely detailed and exceptionally durable, the hand-sewn welt showcases traditional craftsmanship at its best.

The interior details are equally mesmerizing.

The outer side of the shoe is carefully scooped to prevent contact with the ankle bone.

The sole features a hand-carved pattern that also serves as an anti-slip element. Each line is etched manually using fragments of glass.

Fitting Session

And now, the moment arrived for Mr. H to try them on!

His immediate reaction: "Amazing!" and "These look fantastic!" Thanks to Mr. Shirahama's meticulous adjustments to the fit and balance, the shoes felt remarkably comfortable and perfectly matched Mr. H's expectations.

Perhaps influenced by Mr. H's own personality, the shoes exude a refined elegance--visually striking yet never aggressive. Whether shoes or garments, the ability to reflect the client's character in the final product is one of the most compelling aspects of bespoke craftsmanship.

The design of the eyelet tabs (quarters) harmonizes beautifully with the overall silhouette.

We held the shoes under natural sunlight to observe the color variation. When exposed to strong light, the patina reveals an impressive level of transparency and depth.

With dark brown V-front derbies, you can pair them with casual outfits, jacket-and-trouser combinations, or even formal suits. Mr. H mentioned he was excited to wear them and was planning his first outing, including a break-in period.

Mr. H's Impressions

"The final result exceeded all expectations," he said, expressing his delight. He spent about an hour trying on the shoes, viewing them from different angles in the mirror, while we discussed care tips and even ideas for his next pair. It was clear he was genuinely pleased with the outcome.

For his next commission, he's considering an oxford (closed-lacing) style--possibly using the same patina finish or perhaps exploring goat suede options.

Mr. H, thank you again for this extraordinary bespoke shoe commission. It was truly an honor to help bring your long-held vision to life. Your unique concept for a V-front design was both original and inspiring. Both Mr. Shirahama and I thoroughly enjoyed working with you, and we look forward to seeing you again soon.