A Long Double-Breasted Chesterfield Coat Tailored in Zegna Charcoal Grey Cashmere

Background of the Order

Mr. Y first visited our atelier to consult about a custom-made coat. He had been looking for a long cashmere Chesterfield coat and had tried on several from luxury maisons, but while he appreciated their designs, he found that none of them fit him perfectly. This led him to consider bespoke tailoring as a possible solution.

While searching online for a made-to-order Chesterfield coat, he came across images of our double-breasted Chesterfield coat and decided to visit us for an initial consultation. He expressed a clear preference for cashmere, and after selecting several candidate fabrics on that day, he later returned with his wife to finalize both the fabric and the design.

The fabric was ultimately chosen from Ermenegildo Zegna's cashmere collection. He preferred a more subdued, softly lustrous finish rather than the highly glossy, scaly sheen sometimes found in cashmere. The deciding factor was a deep charcoal shade--almost black--that he had been searching for.

As for the design, he deliberated until the very end between a single-breasted and a double-breasted Chesterfield coat, trying on both samples repeatedly. The choice was between the simplicity and versatility of the single-breasted style and the stronger presence of the double-breasted version.

While both suited him well, the double-breasted Chesterfield--with its peak lapels and commanding front--has a certain gravitas that does not flatter everyone equally. However, on Mr. Y, with his refined demeanor and tall, elegant physique, the double-breasted style looked entirely natural and exceptionally well-balanced. We therefore decided to proceed with the double-breasted Chesterfield, leaving the single-breasted version as a future option.

Our standard double Chesterfield sample is knee-length, but Mr. Y requested the longest possible length. He also wanted a clean, column-like silhouette that followed the body closely from the waist down, reminiscent of coats he had tried on at luxury maisons. To achieve this, we decided to incorporate a basted fitting in order to fine-tune the button placement, length, and overall silhouette.

Basted Fitting

At this stage, the pockets and buttons are represented by temporary white cotton (silesia). Easily removable basting stitches not only hold the pieces together but also serve as guidelines, making it easier to evaluate the fitting.

The fitting took place during our bespoke shoe trunk show, so we were surrounded by shoe samples. Even at this early stage, the coat already looked excellent, but this is where we refine the finer details.

The coat fits snugly from the base of the neck through the chest. The shoulder slope is well balanced, allowing the weight to be distributed evenly. Despite the generous volume of the cashmere and the long length, the coat does not feel heavy.

During the fitting, we widened the spacing between the buttons and slightly lowered the position of the waist pockets accordingly. While closer button spacing and higher pockets often create a sharper, more formal impression, we intentionally introduced more space to achieve a softer, more contemporary mood.

We also narrowed the shoulder width and back width to refine the silhouette further. The hem circumference was adjusted to emphasize a clean, column-like line.

Final Result

Simply beautiful. The buttons are polished black horn, adding a subtle and sophisticated accent.