A Double-Breasted Raglan Sleeve Chesterfield Coat with Bespoke Relaxation

Tomohiro Hayashi

A truly special bespoke coat has been completed. Until Mr. I consulted with us, I personally wasn’t aware that such a design even existed in tailoring history — but seeing the finished piece, I couldn’t help but want to order one myself. Please take a look at this exceptional coat where relaxed comfort and elegance coexist in perfect harmony!

Mr. I first consulted us about this coat in early summer--about six months before the final piece was completed. Since he mentioned a double-breasted raglan-sleeve coat, I initially assumed he meant an Ulster coat. However, when I checked the reference image he sent, the coat featured peaked lapels.

This was the image he provided. The coat worn by the gentleman in the green hat on the right served as the inspiration. Compared to the slightly boxy silhouette seen on the gentleman on the left with set-in sleeves, the coat on the right has a distinctive round outline that flows smoothly from the upper collar into the raglan sleeves.

Image courtesy of: Gentleman's Gazette

This would indeed be best described as a raglan-sleeve double-breasted Chesterfield coat. His request was that, despite having raglan sleeves, the coat should feel light and easy to wear. He also shared the concept of a relaxed fit--something that's soft in structure, not too formal, and understated both in comfort and appearance.

He had previously tried and liked our made-to-measure raglan coat, but to fulfill the vision of a relaxed coat with peaked lapels and specific detailing, we concluded that bespoke tailoring would be the ideal choice.

Mr. I had requested a grey herringbone fabric. After presenting several options from British and Italian mills, he ultimately selected a cloth from Vitale Barberis Canonico.

This fabric is a 100% wool double-faced cloth. The navy reverse side subtly shows through the grey surface, giving it a blue-grey tone depending on the angle. Over time, as the outer grey layer wears thin, the navy undertones will emerge more prominently--an aging process that adds depth to what may seem like a simple fabric at first glance.

The double-face weave gives it a plush, cushioned texture and a weight that promises excellent insulation. Despite this, it remains supple and easy to wear. Most notably, the subtly defined herringbone pattern, rarely seen in coat fabrics, gives it a soft and approachable look--making it a perfect match for the relaxed concept behind this coat.

About a month and a half after our initial consultation and measurements, we held the first fitting.

Roughly another month and a half later, we conducted the intermediate fitting.

(Compared to the first fitting, you can now see the shaped peak lapel and the placement of the hip pockets. The upper collar is still temporary at this stage.)

Throughout the fittings, we continuously reviewed the balance of the details. For example, the hip pockets were angled more steeply and placed further forward compared to the first fitting, making them easier to use. This functional adjustment became one of the key elements expressing the relaxed concept behind the coat.

Now, let's take a look at the finished coat.

Details

The straight lines of the peak lapel and the hip pockets add a refined accent to the overall soft impression of the coat.

The V-zone is intentionally narrow to keep warmth in.

A key design feature is the rounded silhouette flowing from the upper collar into the raglan shoulders.

When the top button is left undone, the lapel rolls open like a "3-roll-2" jacket, giving an even softer, more relaxed appearance.

The box pockets were deeply slanted for easier access. The pocket flaps were made deliberately wide to add a casual flair. On the inside, a hidden pocket was added to hold a passcase per Mr. I's request. Personally, I find the intersection of the slanted darts and pocket lines especially beautiful.

The cuffs feature a turn-up design. While some are made without buttons, we added buttons to this version for a functional finish.

Fitting

Finally, it was time for Mr. I to try on his finished coat.

The fitting was done by master tailor Mr. Kojima.

The distinctive seam lines of the raglan sleeves.

From the neckline to the underarm, you can see the seam lines running diagonally along with the dart. The stitches and seams create shadow and dimension on the otherwise simple fabric--a truly captivating visual detail.

Mr. I's first reaction was, "It feels so light!"--which confirmed that we had fulfilled the most important concept. The sleeves are made with a three-piece construction, a hallmark of bespoke tailoring that allows them to follow the natural swing of the arms without twisting.

The hip pockets, adjusted during the fitting process, were perfectly positioned for ease of use.

The lapel buttonhole--often just decorative these days--was made functional in this coat. "It'll come in handy, especially when fully closed for warmth," said Mr. I.

The coat fits snugly around the chest and gently flares out toward the hem in a subtle A-line. The sleeve curve is particularly elegant.

The overall balance is outstanding--the coat fits Mr. I so naturally that it almost feels like an extension of him. The knee-length cut was chosen not only for warmth but also to prevent excessive spread when sitting on a train, as per Mr. I's preferences.

The U-shaped rounded silhouette running from cuff to upper collar and back to the opposite cuff is made possible by the raglan sleeve construction and Mr. Kojima's tailoring techniques.

The upper collar is crafted in a "kama-eri" style--angled slightly downward toward the neck. This softens the elevation difference between shoulder and collar, enhancing the coat's rounded appearance. All of it reflects the concept: "Relaxed in fit and feeling, not too dressy or rigid."

The lapels were cut straight along the grain without curvature, giving a classic, understated look.

Unlike most double-breasted Chesterfields that feature welted pockets with flaps, we opted for large patch pockets that resemble hand-warmers. The absence of a chest pocket further enhances the coat's relaxed character.

"The depth of the V-zone is just right--not too deep," Mr. I commented. Though not shown here, the lining features quilted insulation with Thinsulate. With this V-zone coverage and that lining, the coat is sure to provide excellent warmth.

The quilted lining was chosen to meet the goal of "keeping it light, yet as warm as possible." Later, Mr. I also shared that the texture of the quilted lining gives the coat a stable, grounded feel when worn.

The rounded line from the shoulder to the neck contrasts beautifully with the sharp line of the peak lapel. The drape of the sleeves is also excellent.

This photo captures many of the coat's best features. You can clearly see the "kama-eri" collar mentioned earlier--angled downward to follow the neckline.

After delivery, we checked in with Mr. I and received this feedback: "Though the coat has weight to it, it doesn't feel tiring at all--perhaps because the bespoke fit follows the curves of the body so well."

While originally designed with commuting in mind, its relaxed nature means it will likely be a favorite on casual days as well. We truly hope this coat becomes a lifelong companion.

Even with basic jackets, no two bespoke pieces are ever the same. There's always something new to learn. This time, we had the rare opportunity to craft a raglan-sleeve double-breasted Chesterfield--something entirely new for us.

Not only did it expand our technical repertoire, but after completing the project, Mr. Kojima and I looked at each other and said, "We want one too." Another item has now joined our personal wish lists.

It's a coat that strikes the perfect balance--neither too dressy nor too casual. Understated enough for everyday wear, yet stylish enough to make sartorial enthusiasts do a double take.

Mr. I, thank you once again for the opportunity and your trust in our craftsmanship.