Ulster Coat with Raglan Sleeves Tailored in Lightweight Tweed

Tomohiro Hayashi

The Ulster coat, crafted from tweed by one of Britain’s most renowned mills, is full of noteworthy details. With its raglan sleeves offering a casually elegant and lightweight wear, we invite you to take a closer look.

Background of the Order

After ordering a jacket and being very pleased with the result, Mr. T approached us again, this time for an Ulster coat.

Mr. T is a passionate clothing enthusiast who often visits select shops in addition to ordering custom garments. Although he had researched the history of Ulster coats online and visited stores to try on ready-to-wear options, he found it difficult to find the ideal combination of size, design, and fabric. He told us, "It might be quicker to have one made to order."

After consulting with us via LINE, he visited our store to view samples. In made-to-measure tailoring, whether the customer likes the sample design is an important factor, just as it is with ready-to-wear. Fortunately, Mr. T really liked the look of our Ulster Coat and its distinctive collar. Given his well-defined shoulders and preference for natural shoulder lines, our raglan-sleeve Ulster Coat was very well suited to him. Unlike the more common set-in sleeves often found on typical Ulster coats and jackets, raglan sleeves offer a softer, more casual feel and a relaxed A-line silhouette, which was exactly the kind of atmosphere Mr. T had in mind.

He was looking for a casual solid or check pattern in earthy tones such as brown or green. Since he tends to feel warm easily, he also requested a lighter fabric that would still have the appearance of a proper coat, while being suitable for Tokyo's relatively mild winters.

We searched for fabrics based on these requirements. One option stood out: a collection from ABRAHAM MOON & SONS featuring a variety of earthy tones such as brown and green, with just the right weight. We selected their Shetland wool tweed, woven in England. Weighing 370 g/m, it is light enough to be used for a heavy jacket, making it an exceptionally lightweight choice for a coat.

Founded in 1837, Abraham Moon is one of the few remaining vertically integrated mills in the United Kingdom. From dyeing raw wool to spinning, weaving, and finishing the cloth, every step of production is carried out in-house. Historically, original Ulster coats were made using thick fabric woven in the Ulster region of Northern Ireland, with a weight substantial enough to be used almost like a blanket. For modern-day Japan, however, this lightweight and supple Shetland tweed was a practical and very appealing choice, while still retaining a British country atmosphere.

Shetland wool is sourced from sheep raised on the Shetland Islands in northern Scotland. The harsh climate there produces fleece that is surprisingly warm despite its lightness. When people think of British tweed, they may imagine something coarse and scratchy. However, Shetland wool is one of the softer British wools, with a moist, smooth, and even slightly lustrous touch, without the roughness often associated with tweed.

Among the Made-in-England Shetland options, Mr. T was immediately drawn to a rich, deep green solid: classic, and unmistakably British country in character. "Let's go with this one," he decided. Interestingly, historical records suggest that original Ulster coats from the late 19th century were also made with heavy green cloth, making this a thoughtful choice that also respects tradition.

Completion

The coat shows the characteristic drape and subtle sheen of Shetland wool. As an Ulster Coat with a belt, it allows the wearer to cinch the waist for added warmth and to adjust the silhouette as desired.

The Ulster collar, the defining feature of the coat, is characterized by its large top collar extending beyond the lapel. The sharp machine stitching adds a crisp accent.

There are tabs at the cuffs, designed to help block wind and rain. When tightened, they subtly change the sleeve silhouette. When light hits the coat, the complex color variation of the tweed becomes beautifully visible.

Wearing the Coat

Mr. T is tall and plays basketball, and he had a specific request for a below-the-knee length, which is rarely found in ready-to-wear Ulster coats. The placement of the belt and the coat's A-line silhouette came together beautifully.

Originally designed as a casual travel coat for the aristocracy, the Ulster coat is characterized by its generous length. With that in mind, we also extended the sleeve length to complement the overall silhouette.

Mr. T has a pronounced shoulder line, which can sometimes cause creasing in jacket sleeves. However, the raglan sleeves, originally developed to help injured soldiers dress and undress more easily, remove any sense of tightness around the shoulders. The collar also sits neatly around the neck.

With the waist cinched and the cuffs tightened, the coat creates a beautiful flowing drape. The complex depth of the green tweed is something you can enjoy looking at again and again.

By placing the belt in the pockets and leaving the front buttons open, the coat takes on a more casual look. As seen in Mr. T's styling on this day, paired with a turtleneck and cotton trousers, the raglan-sleeve Ulster Coat works naturally with casual and off-duty outfits as well. For those looking for a versatile coat after a Chesterfield Coat, I believe it could be a very good second option.

The back view, with the belt cinched at the waist, is also very stylish. The deep center vent ensures ease of movement, even with the coat's extended length.

We were very pleased to hear that Mr. T has already been wearing the coat for both work and business travel. Thanks to the lightweight yet durable nature of tweed, it does not wrinkle easily and remains compact when folded, making it practical for both professional and personal use. I hope Mr. T will continue to enjoy this coat and let it age gracefully over time.