Ulster Coat with Raglan Sleeves Tailored in Lightweight Tweed

Tomohiro Hayashi

The Ulster coat, crafted from tweed by one of Britain’s most renowned mills, is full of noteworthy details. With its raglan sleeves offering a casually elegant and lightweight wear, we invite you to take a closer look.

Order Background

After placing an order for a jacket and being very pleased with the result, Mr. T approached us again--this time for an Ulster coat.

A passionate clothing enthusiast, Mr. T often visits select shops in addition to ordering custom garments. Although he had researched the history of Ulster coats online and visited stores to try on ready-to-wear options, he struggled to find the ideal combination of size, design, and fabric. He told us, "It might be quicker to just have one made to order."

Following a consultation via LINE, he visited our atelier to view samples. In made-to-measure tailoring, whether you like the sample design is a key factor--just as it is with ready-to-wear. Fortunately, Mr. T was very taken with the look of our Ulster coat and its distinctive collar. Given his well-defined shoulders and preference for natural shoulder lines, our raglan-sleeve Ulster coat was a perfect match. Unlike the more common set-in sleeves found on typical Ulster coats and jackets, the raglan sleeves offer a softer, more casual feel and a relaxed A-line silhouette--just what Mr. T had in mind.

He was hoping for a casual solid or check pattern in earthy tones such as brown or green. Being someone who tends to feel warm easily, he also requested a lighter fabric that would still offer the appearance of a proper coat but be suitable for Tokyo's relatively mild winters.

We searched for fabrics based on these requirements. One option stood out--a collection from ABRAHAM MOON & SONS featuring a variety of earthy tones like brown and green, and with the perfect weight. We selected their Shetland wool tweed, woven in England. Weighing 370g/m, it's light enough for a heavy jacket, making it an exceptionally lightweight choice for a coat.

Founded in 1837, Abraham Moon is one of the few remaining vertically integrated mills in the UK. From dyeing raw wool to spinning, weaving, and finishing the cloth, every step of production is done in-house. Historically, original Ulster coats used thick fabric woven in Northern Ireland's Ulster region--so heavy they could double as blankets. But for modern-day Japan, this lightweight, supple Shetland tweed--while still evoking a British country aesthetic--was a perfect, practical choice.

By the way, Shetland wool is sourced from sheep raised on the Shetland Islands in northern Scotland. The harsh climate conditions there result in a fleece that's surprisingly warm despite its thinness. When people think of British tweed, they often imagine something coarse and scratchy. However, Shetland wool is one of the softest British wools--moist, smooth, and even slightly lustrous, with none of the itchiness typically associated with tweed.

Among the Made-in-England Shetland options, Mr. T was immediately drawn to a rich, deep green solid--classic and unmistakably British country in character. "Let's go with this one," he decided. Interestingly, historical records indicate that the original Ulster coats in the late 19th century were also made with heavy green cloth--making this a remarkably thoughtful choice that honors tradition.

Completion

The coat showcases the signature drape and sheen of Shetland wool. Featuring a belt, the Ulster coat allows the wearer to cinch the waist for improved warmth and to adjust the silhouette as desired.

The Ulster collar, the defining feature of the coat, is characterized by its large top collar extending beyond the lapel. The sharp machine stitching adds a crisp accent.

There are tabs at the cuffs--designed to block wind and rain. When tightened, they subtly alter the sleeve silhouette. When light hits the coat, the complex color variations of the tweed come to life.

Wearing the Coat

Mr. T, a tall gentleman and basketball player, had a specific request for a below-the-knee length that is rarely found in ready-to-wear Ulster coats. The placement of the belt and the coat's A-line silhouette came together in perfect harmony.

Originally designed as a casual travel coat for the aristocracy, the Ulster coat is characterized by its generous length. Accordingly, we extended the sleeve length to complement the overall silhouette.

Mr. T has a pronounced shoulder line, which often causes creasing in jacket sleeves. However, the raglan sleeves--originally developed to help injured soldiers dress and undress more easily--eliminate any sense of tightness in the shoulders. The collar also fits snugly around the neck.

With the waist cinched and the cuffs tightened, the coat creates a flowing drape--a delight for drape enthusiasts. The complex depth of the green tweed never grows old.

By storing the belt in the pockets and leaving the front buttons open, the coat takes on a more casual look. As seen in Mr. T's styling on this day--paired with a turtleneck and cotton trousers--the raglan-sleeve Ulster coat effortlessly complements both casual and off-duty outfits. It may very well be the perfect second coat to follow a Chesterfield for those seeking versatile elegance.

The back view--with the belt cinched at the waist--is equally stylish. The deep center vent ensures ease of movement, even with the coat's extended length.

We were pleased to hear that the coat is already being worn for both work and business travel. Thanks to the lightweight yet durable nature of tweed, it doesn't wrinkle easily and remains compact when folded--ideal for both professional and personal use. We hope Mr. T continues to enjoy it and let the coat age gracefully over time.