Rainy Season Solution: Say Goodbye to Troubled Trousers with Permanent "Center Crease Stitching"

During the rainy and humid season, many people find it troublesome to wear slacks. One major reason for this discomfort is the loss of the center crease due to moisture.

But what exactly is a center crease? The word "crease" refers to a fold or pleat in English. Specifically, the term "center crease" has become globally recognized to describe the crease line running down the front and back center of slacks. While there are several theories about its origin, it is commonly believed to have emerged in the British royal family in the late 19th century and has since become a standard feature.

I believe that the center crease plays a vital role as the structural backbone supporting the silhouette of slacks.

When the crease runs down the center of both the front and back panels, it functions like a spine, allowing the trouser legs to fall straight. This design creates volume in the front and back, rather than the sides, making the trousers appear slimmer from the front and more three-dimensional from the side.

From a tailoring perspective, slacks are often designed and cut with the center crease line as a reference. So the crease isn't just a visual accent added arbitrarily to the middle--it's an essential part of the garment's construction. In short, the center crease is crucial both visually and structurally.20200627_02.jpg

The center crease offers more than just visual appeal. While examples from business settings or military uniforms are obvious, a properly maintained center crease is a sign of meticulous grooming and preparedness. It conveys a sense of cleanliness and reliability. When the crease disappears, the intended silhouette collapses, and the trousers begin to look saggy and lose their clean lines. As a result, the wearer may appear sloppy.

Of course, the center crease can be restored with a proper pressing. However, many people have experienced the frustration of leaving home with freshly pressed slacks, only to see the crease vanish within half a day due to bad weather or high humidity.

If you've faced this problem, here's a solution worth considering: Crease Stitching.

20200627_03.jpgTypically, the center crease is set by ironing alone. With this technique, however, a skilled tailor sews a fine, nearly invisible stitch along the very edge of the crease line using a sewing machine, making the crease virtually permanent.

Since the stitching is done with such precision at the very edge, it's nearly impossible to notice unless you're looking for it closely and know what to look for.

With special permission from a client who requested multiple crease stitchings at once, we were able to photograph a before-and-after comparison using their own pants made from jersey fabric!

before20200627_04.jpgDue to the soft jersey fabric, the center crease is faint and lacks definition.

after20200627_05.jpgThe crease has been sharply and three-dimensionally restored!

before220200627_06.jpgThe back view of the same pair of pants.

after220200627_07.jpgA remarkable transformation. In summer, sitting while perspiring tends to flatten the creases behind the thighs--but now, that issue is completely resolved.

before320200627_08.jpgAnother pair in beige. While the fabric is slightly more structured, the crease line still looks like it could fade easily.

after320200627_09.jpgA beautifully defined and satisfying crease line.

before420200627_10.jpgBack view of the beige trousers.

after420200627_11.jpgA stunning crease. With this level of definition, even if the rest of the fabric wrinkles slightly, the pants still look clean and presentable. Crease stitching truly offers nothing but benefits.

I decided to try crease stitching myself! These trousers are made from cotton by Loro Piana.20200627_12.jpg

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20200627_14.jpgThe stitching extends right up to the top of the tuck for a sharp finish.

20200627_15.jpgEven on double-hemmed trousers, the stitching can be applied just like this.

Here they are being worn!20200627_16.jpgI went for a slightly wider silhouette than usual, but thanks to the crease line, they still look clean and sharp. The vertical line effect is outstanding.

20200627_17.jpgThe three-dimensional look from the side is also spot-on.

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So, what do you think of crease stitching? We highly recommend it!
For more details on pricing and how to place an order, please refer to the service page below.

About Our Crease Stitching Service
-- Orders & Reservations

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Business and Leisure in Style: Bespoke Men's Cut-and-Sewn Tops for the Modern Gentleman
Posted by Tomohiro Hayashi
Tomohiro Hayashi

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