Alteration and Major Transformation of a Ready-to-Wear British Brand Suit

This time, we'd like to share a suit resizing project done through our Repair and Reform service. The client requested major alterations to a suit originally purchased during a time when he had a larger frame. It was a ready-to-wear suit from a well-known British brand. After undergoing a body transformation, the suit became too loose, but as it remained a favorite, he consulted us to see if it could be tailored to fit again--even if it might be a long shot.

Upon inspection, we found that while significant adjustments were necessary, it was possible to alter the suit to a wearable state. We were happy to take on the project.

Let's begin with the condition before the alterations.

[Before]

Jacket

20201211_suitsreform_2.jpgThe suit was initially purchased in a slightly oversized fit, resulting in a roomy chest and waist. It didn't do justice to the client's newly slimmed figure and gave off a somewhat disappointing impression.

20201211_suitsreform_3.jpgThe back lacked contour and fell straight without shape. Narrowing the shoulder width would give a sharper silhouette.

This jacket originally featured side vents, but to enhance the streamlined look, we decided to close the vents and convert it into a no-vent design.

Pants

20201211_suitsreform_4.jpgThe pants were significantly oversized at the waist, hips, and thighs. Additionally, the inseam was too long, causing excessive break and resulting in a sloppy appearance.

Vest

20201211_suitsreform_5.jpgThe vest, brought in as part of the suit, was also very roomy--definitely worth altering.

20201211_suitsreform_6.jpgThe front panels lifted away from the torso.

20201211_suitsreform_7.jpgThe back panel was also extremely loose.

Fitting

Given the scale of alterations, we pinned the suit on the client--after gaining his approval--to let him physically feel the adjusted fit and check the mirror for a visual confirmation. This helped finalize the adjustment measurements.

Jacket

20201211_suitsreform_1.jpgPins were used to mark areas for adjustment. We narrowed the shoulders and trimmed from just below the shoulder blades down through the waist and hips to follow the natural contours of the body:
・Shoulders: -2cm
・Waist: -4cm
・Hips: -4cm

20201211_suitsreform_8.jpgFront view with pins in place. The fit looks much cleaner and more natural.

Pants

20201211_suitsreform_9.jpgThe pants were adjusted significantly at the waist, hips, and thighs. The inseam was also shortened to achieve a half break. Pins were inserted along the inseam from thigh to knee, giving a much sleeker silhouette:
・Waist: -4.5cm
・Thigh circumference: -3.5cm
・Inseam: -2.5cm

20201211_suitsreform_10.jpgThe left side has been pinned to adjust the thighs and inseam. Compared to the right, which remains unaltered, the difference is striking.

Vest

20201211_suitsreform_11.jpgThe vest was more than two sizes too large, so we took in the bust, waist, and hem considerably. While we generally avoid pinning vests to prevent leaving marks on the lining, the large reduction required it so the client could feel the final fit:
・Bust: -8cm
・Waist: -8cm
・Hem: -8cm

20201211_suitsreform_12.jpgThis is about how closely we wanted the vest to follow the body. However, even if the fit feels right when standing, it can be uncomfortable when sitting. We confirmed the comfort in both positions before proceeding.

20201211_suitsreform_13.jpgFront view after pinning. The fitted bust, waist, and hem create a sharp and stylish silhouette.

With the alteration plans finalized, our client looked forward to the transformation. About two weeks later, the work was complete.

[after]

Jacket

20201211_suitsreform_14.jpgTaking into account the customer's well-toned physique and the original design of the suit, we made adjustments throughout without making it overly tight. The shoulder width, bust, waist, and hips were all altered, yet the result looks completely natural--as if it had always fit this way.

20201211_suitsreform_16.jpg
By shaping the waist, a beautiful drape now flows from the chest down to the hem.

20201211_suitsreform_20.jpgThe back silhouette also contours naturally along the body. Instead of adjusting only the waist, we made continuous alterations from the shoulder blades down to the hips, creating a seamless and refined finish. The newly closed vent also adds a sharper look to the hem.

Pants

20201211_suitsreform_22.jpgWith adjustments to the waist, hips, thighs, and inseam, the pants now feature a dramatically improved silhouette. The customer's physique is showcased beautifully through this refined fit.

Functional Buttonholes (Surgeon's Cuffs)

In addition to resizing and vent closure, we were also asked to enhance the suit's appearance. The original buttons were light brown buffalo horn, but we replaced them with grey mother-of-pearl buttons to better complement the slightly glossy Loro Piana fabric. The sleeve cuffs, which had decorative buttons and buttonholes (known as faux cuffs), were upgraded to functional buttonholes (real cuffs) that can be opened and closed.

20201211_suitsreform_23.jpgFour buttons were stacked neatly. The clean alignment is a testament to the tailor's skill. For our bespoke orders, we typically use "crow's foot" stitching for buttons, but this suit originally featured "cross-stitching," so we respected the original style and used the same method.

20201211_suitsreform_24.jpgHere's how it looks when the sleeve is actually opened.

Vest

The vest also turned out beautifully.20201211_suitsreform_26.jpgNow fitting naturally along the body, it enhances the wearer's figure. When a vest fits this well, you get to enjoy its characteristic upright posture and comfort.

20201211_suitsreform_27.jpgFrom the back, everything is tidy with no excess lining fabric. The vest looks great even when worn without a jacket.

The customer was extremely satisfied with the results of the suit reform. Unlike bespoke garments that are created from scratch, reforming an already finished piece has many structural limitations, and it may not always be possible to fulfill every request. However, by evaluating the garment as a whole and considering your budget, we will do everything we can to provide the best possible alterations. Even without drastic resizing, just adjusting areas like the waist or length can make a remarkable difference.

By leveraging our expertise in fitting bespoke suits, we're confident we can deliver results that exceed your expectations. Before proceeding with any repairs, we'll provide a detailed estimate, so you can decide whether to move forward with peace of mind. We look forward to your inquiries. Please feel free to reach out via our Contact Form.

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