Wild Plain-Toe Shoes Crafted in Bison Leather

Background of the Order

Mr. O is very fond of shoes and owns many pairs; however, as they are ready-made, some areas do not fit properly and he has been wearing them while tolerating the discomfort. During his visits for repairs to his garments, he became interested in YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER bespoke shoes, which ultimately led to this order.

The form reflects Mr. O's preference, featuring a rounded and voluminous shape. As he favors expressive leather, he selected rare bison leather -- soft yet possessing a wild character.

Completion

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A rounded outer line combined with a low-center-of-gravity form that follows the toes. The sharp rise along the sides -- this is the essence of bespoke.

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Norvegese construction. In bespoke shoemaking, techniques such as applying Norvegese only to the forepart or combining it with hand-sewn construction on the inside are sometimes used; however, a full Norvegese construction was intentionally chosen to create a solid presence. Using black stitching matching the leather keeps the impression chic.

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Five-eyelet derby. The shape and balance of the quarters were refined through three rounds of fittings.

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A sculpted instep and a low toe area eliminating unnecessary space. The contrast in height is clearly visible.

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The overall balance, something Mr. Shirahama values greatly. Reflecting the characteristics of each individual foot while achieving a beautiful proportion comparable to high-end ready-made shoes requires refined aesthetics and advanced design skill.

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Full Norvegese construction provides exceptional visual stability. A pair built for robust wear.

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From the front, the eyelets appear asymmetrical -- higher on the left and lower on the right. This reflects the actual shape of Mr. O's instep.

When laced and worn, both sides align perfectly; therefore, the shoe is intentionally made asymmetrical.

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Delicate stitchwork.

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Black bison -- truly beautiful.

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The higher heel, characteristic of bespoke, enhances posture. The Norvegese construction is effective here.

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The leather sole features Mr. Shirahama's signature delicate carving.

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Fitting

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While Mr. Shirahama performs the final check, the shoes are laced firmly for wear. Derby shoes allow easier adjustment of instep fit than oxfords, but unless laced properly the instep may feel loose and the intended comfort cannot be achieved.

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"They feel right from the very first wear. As expected -- an excellent fit!" Mr. O remarked with pleasant surprise.

Ready-made shoes usually require a break-in period. Bespoke shoes also require some acclimation depending on leather and design, but the period is unquestionably far shorter.

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The bison leather with matching Norvegese stitching creates a remarkable atmosphere.

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Individually the shoes appear voluminous, yet when worn by Mr. O they balance perfectly -- a nuance unique to bespoke.

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The line from the rising toe to the low instep is clearly visible.

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"They fit, yet feel incredibly comfortable," says Mr. O.

From my own experience, Mr. Shirahama's shoes hold the foot securely at the instep while allowing appropriate space at the toes -- visually sleek yet surprisingly comfortable.

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A refined plain toe. Remarkably elegant even in bison leather.

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A versatile black pair -- easy to coordinate and suitable for frequent wear like sneakers.

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Subtle yet commanding presence; luxurious yet approachable -- perhaps the ideal form of a casual shoe.

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Low center of gravity characteristic of hand-sewn welted construction.

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Casual yet elegant.

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Mr. O was highly satisfied with the result. Next, we will craft loafers using another special leather -- we look forward to introducing them on this blog as well.

This pair allowed us to experience firsthand how a classic derby plain toe can be transformed by Mr. Shirahama through the use of distinctive bison leather. Thank you again, Mr. O, for kindly cooperating with the photography.

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The Dressing Lab specializes in bespoke tailoring. While we can tailor most items given some time, we do not have ready-to-wear garments available for immediate purchase.
We deal exclusively in high-quality custom-made items, requiring at least one month for completion of any piece. For those desiring bespoke services or in cases where fittings are necessary due to body shape, it may be required to visit our salon 2 to 3 times.
We kindly ask for your understanding of the above conditions before placing an order. We eagerly await your consultations and reservations.
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