Wild Plain-Toe Shoes Crafted in Bison Leather
Background of the Order
Mr. O is very fond of shoes and owns many pairs. However, because they are ready-made, there were areas that did not fit properly, and he had been wearing them while tolerating some discomfort. During his visits to our store for garment repairs, he became interested in YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER bespoke shoes, which eventually led to this order.
The form reflects Mr. O's personal preference, with a rounded and voluminous shape. Since he likes leather with character, he selected rare bison leather, which is soft yet has a wild and expressive appearance.
Completion
A rounded outer line, combined with a low-center-of-gravity form that follows the shape of the toes. The sharp rise along the sides is truly one of the essences of bespoke shoemaking.

Norvegese construction. In bespoke shoemaking, techniques such as applying Norvegese only to the forepart, or combining it with hand-sewn construction on the inside, are sometimes used. For this pair, however, full Norvegese construction was intentionally chosen to create a solid and powerful presence. By using black stitching that matches the leather, the overall impression remains chic.

A five-eyelet derby. The shape and balance of the quarters were refined through three rounds of fittings.

A sculpted instep and a low toe area with unnecessary space removed. The contrast in height is clearly visible.



The overall balance is something Mr. Shirahama values greatly. Reflecting the characteristics of each customer's feet while achieving beautiful proportions comparable to high-end ready-made shoes requires refined aesthetics and advanced design skill.



Full Norvegese construction gives the shoes exceptional visual stability. This is a pair made for robust wear.

Seen from the front, the eyelets appear asymmetrical, higher on the left and lower on the right. This reflects the actual shape of Mr. O's instep.
When the shoes are laced and worn, both sides align perfectly. For that reason, the shoes are intentionally made asymmetrical.


Delicate stitchwork.

Black bison leather -- truly beautiful.


The higher heel, characteristic of bespoke shoes, enhances posture. The Norvegese construction also works beautifully here.



The leather sole features Mr. Shirahama's signature delicate carving.

Fitting
While Mr. Shirahama performs the final check, the shoes are laced firmly for wearing. Derby shoes allow the instep fit to be adjusted more easily than oxfords, but unless they are laced properly, the instep may feel loose and the intended comfort cannot be achieved.

"They feel right from the very first wear. As expected -- an excellent fit!" Mr. O remarked with pleasant surprise.
Ready-made shoes usually require a break-in period. Bespoke shoes may also require some time to settle depending on the leather and design, but that period is unquestionably much shorter.


The bison leather, paired with matching Norvegese stitching, creates a remarkable atmosphere.

Individually, the shoes appear voluminous. Yet when worn by Mr. O, they balance perfectly. This is a nuance unique to bespoke.


The line from the rising toe to the low instep is clearly visible.




"They fit, yet feel incredibly comfortable," says Mr. O.
From my own experience, Mr. Shirahama's shoes hold the foot securely at the instep while allowing appropriate space around the toes. They look sleek, yet feel surprisingly comfortable.

A refined plain toe. Remarkably elegant, even in bison leather.

A versatile black pair -- easy to coordinate and suitable for frequent wear, almost like sneakers.

Subtle yet full of presence. Luxurious yet approachable. Perhaps this is an ideal form of casual shoe.

A low center of gravity characteristic of hand-sewn welted construction.


Casual yet elegant.

Mr. O was very satisfied with the finished result. Next, we will be making loafers using another special leather, and I look forward to introducing them on this blog as well.
This pair allowed us to experience firsthand how Mr. Shirahama can transform a classic derby plain toe through the use of distinctive bison leather. Thank you again, Mr. O, for kindly cooperating with the photography.
Photo Gallery
Posted by Tomohiro Hayashi
The Dressing Lab specializes in bespoke tailoring. While we can tailor most items given some time, we do not have ready-to-wear garments available for immediate purchase.
We deal exclusively in high-quality custom-made items, requiring at least one month for completion of any piece. For those desiring bespoke services or in cases where fittings are necessary due to body shape, it may be required to visit our salon 2 to 3 times.
We kindly ask for your understanding of the above conditions before placing an order. We eagerly await your consultations and reservations.
*Please make sure to reserve an appointment before visiting our store.
We gladly welcome appointments for consultations or viewings, so please don't hesitate to reach out to us.






























