A Long-Awaited Bespoke Stainless Collar Coat: Part 1

Tomohiro Hayashi

Another lifelong companion has just been completed — a bespoke stainless collar coat! In this first part, I’ll walk you through the unique details that only bespoke tailoring can offer. There’s a lot to highlight, so the post is a bit image-heavy, but I hope you’ll enjoy scrolling through.

Background of the Order

My previous bespoke double-breasted Chesterfield coat turned out so well that before the excitement wore off, I decided to request another bespoke piece -- this time, a so-called "spring coat" that could be worn across spring, summer, and autumn.

When we talk about spring coats at our store, our Spritumn Coat in the made-to-measure (MTM) line is especially popular. I myself regularly wear both the Spritumn Raglan Coat and the Spritumn Chester Coat, both crafted from cotton-nylon fabric by Olmetex. One might wonder why I'd need another spring coat, but as someone who loves outerwear, I wanted to experience a different type of coat -- one that contrasts with the clean finish of the Spritumn -- through the bespoke process.

What came to mind was the "all-weather coat" worn by the U.S. Navy -- dark navy, fly front, with bold machine stitching. Simple, yet incredibly stylish. That said, I didn't want to create a replica. I just used it as inspiration: a fly front, no lapel by folding the collar inward, and a slightly dropped shoulder with set-in sleeves. That was the initial concept I brought to Mr. Kojima.

When I consulted Mr. Kojima, he responded sincerely: "Even with MTM, we can already make great stainless collar coats -- so bringing out something unique with bespoke will be quite a challenge." But through further discussions, he embraced the project, saying, "If we're going to make this, let's create a coat so distinctive that decades from now someone finds it at a vintage shop and says, 'What is this coat!?' -- in a good way."

Fabric

As a lifelong piece inspired by military wear, I wanted something durable -- a fabric that would look even better with repair marks. I also intended to wash the fabric before tailoring. This was to achieve a worn-in look from the start, and to prevent shrinkage later, as I hoped to machine wash it at home when needed.

The fabric I selected under this concept was "GIOVE," a cotton gabardine by Olmetex (Italy). Known for its use in Burberry's trench coats, it's a trusted fabric and a staple in our Spritumn Coats. Woven from 100% high-quality cotton at high density, it's wind-resistant, water-repellent, and yet incredibly supple and light. It feels like a fine shirting fabric -- smooth, soft, and free from any stiffness. Though I initially considered a more rugged fabric to suit the military aesthetic, I'm so glad I chose this one. The more I wear it, the more I appreciate it. It's a phenomenal coat fabric.

I had decided from the beginning to go with midnight blue. In a world where light-colored spring coats are the norm, I deliberately wanted a darker tone. I was also drawn to the rugged navy-almost-black hue seen in images of all-weather coats. While I occasionally wondered if I should have chosen beige or khaki when seeing others on the street (laughs), in hindsight, I'm glad I stayed true to my vision.

This chambray fabric is woven with two shades of navy thread, producing a subtle color shift depending on lighting -- similar to Solaro cloth. It has a soft sheen, and although dark, it never feels heavy. I'm excited to see how it will age over time, especially as it sun-fades through wear.

Details

Now, let me introduce the completed coat's features.

The front is a fly front -- with the buttons hidden beneath the placket.

The side pockets are placed discreetly near the seams, almost hidden by the sleeves -- a simplicity that might seem sparse at first glance, but in fact defines the coat's character.

Stainless Collar and Tab

One of the coat's iconic details is the trapezoid-shaped collar tab -- meant to fasten under the chin when the collar is up.

The tab isn't a separate part -- it's integrated with the collar. Hand-stitched buttonholes and decorative stitching give the collar area a strong visual presence.

With the tab tucked beneath the collar, the sharp silhouette stands out. Rather than a wide spread, we aimed for a more closed, regular-style collar, adjusting through fittings to achieve the ideal shape.

The tab is easily stored inside the collar, but as it's such a charming feature, I plan to wear it exposed for a while.

When the collar is up, the tab fastens under the chin. Though I may rarely button it in practice, the fact that it functions properly rather than being purely decorative is important to me.

The collar is finished with machine stitching. While I love hand-stitching, this was one area where machine stitching was more appropriate -- and it shines here.

Rail stitching -- the detail is so captivating I could stare at it for hours.

Split Raglan

One of the key charms of this coat lies in the sleeve construction. From the front, the sleeves appear to be set-in like a traditional jacket...

But from the back, they look like raglan sleeves.


In fact, the coat features a "split raglan" sleeve design, where set-in sleeves in the front and raglan sleeves in the back meet at the shoulder seam. Commonly seen in military coats, this complex construction strikes a balance between comfort and production efficiency -- a smart solution for garments designed for functionality.

It's rare to see such a detail in a made-to-order or bespoke coat. Even Mr. Kojima, with all his experience, had never tailored one before. Yet the result was of exceptional quality. Visually, it offers the elegance of set-in sleeves with the relaxed feel of raglan -- a combination that's both rare and compelling. For someone like me who prefers subtle individuality, this unique design hits the mark perfectly.

Even the back style was deliberately kept simple -- no tabs, no buttons. A single hand-stitched seam runs down the center, adding character. I find the natural wrinkling here absolutely charming.

Sleeve Tabs, Hip Pockets, Fly Front

The sleeve tabs mirror the collar tab with their trapezoidal shape -- a unique design choice, since sleeve tabs are usually rectangular or pointed.

They allow you to tighten the cuffs against wind and rain. While long tabs or belts are more common, I really like these shorter versions -- they feel unique. The bottom edge of the tab being parallel to the slant of the cuff also gives a clean, structured impression.


The hip pockets -- typically buttoned on this type of coat -- were left simple and clean.

All stitching on the fly front is done by hand.


Inside the fly front, all buttonholes are hand-sewn.

Two-Piece Body and Side Darts

This side view might seem simple at first glance, but it's actually one of the coat's most bespoke elements -- subtle yet distinctly unique.


This coat uses our signature two-piece body construction -- eliminating the side panel (called *saibara* in Japanese tailoring) to create a clean structure with just a front and back body panel. This minimalist layout defines the coat's visual simplicity. When you raise the arm, you can see the slanted dart running from underarm to hip pocket -- an elegant structural solution.

Lining

Rather than placing the brand label near the inner pocket, I opted to stitch it onto the center back lining -- a nod to military aesthetics.

While original all-weather coats typically use self-fabric linings, we chose an Olmetex cotton-nylon blend instead. This makes the coat lighter and allows for smoother movement. I really like the subtle contrast between the body and lining in both color and texture.


The inner pocket area has a unique, almost playful character. Even the hidden interior is crafted with great care -- a clear expression of Mr. Kojima's love for the craft.


The buttons are replica plastic military buttons. Lightweight and easy to fasten, they truly live up to their reputation as military-grade hardware. Their match with the fabric is also spot on.

Packed with unique details beneath a simple silhouette, this "Bespoke Stainless Collar Coat" has been a joy to create. In the next article, I'll show you how it looks when worn -- stay tuned for Part 2.