A Long-Awaited Bespoke Stainless Collar Coat: Part 2

Tomohiro Hayashi

The bespoke stainless collar coat I had been eagerly awaiting is finally complete! Normally, I would photograph it right after completion while it's still in pristine condition — but this time, I chose to wear it a few times first to let it settle in. As a result, I believe it's already showing some wonderful character. I hope you enjoy taking a look.

In Part 1, I shared the background behind ordering this bespoke Staincollar Coat, along with its design details. In this second part, I would like to talk about how the coat looks and feels when actually worn.

Silhouette

Worn open, the coat reveals a gentle A-line that flares slightly toward the hem. The length is long enough to completely cover the knees. The sleeves were made slightly longer with future changes from wear and possible shrinkage in mind.

The carefully constructed split raglan sleeves appear set-in from the front. To keep the overall impression from becoming too dressy, the shoulders were intentionally made slightly wider and more relaxed.

When buttoned, the fly front conceals the buttons and gives the coat a very clean appearance.

This silhouette is exactly what I had envisioned. The tailoring creates a gentle A-line from both the front and back, fitting neatly around the chest before gradually opening toward the hem.

When worn open, the coat takes on even more volume. On clear days, I enjoy leaving the buttons undone and letting the hem move naturally in the breeze.

I particularly like the way the sleeves bunch naturally when I put my hands in the pockets. They were intentionally made quite generous to create this effect.

The unusual trapezoidal sleeve tab echoes the collar tab introduced below. Its original function is to tighten the cuff against wind and rain.

Combined with the hand-sewn stitching and buttonholes and the replica military-style plastic buttons, the cuff has a strong and distinctive character.

Back View

The back was intentionally kept simple. The key elements for me are the drape and the hand-stitched center seam. With this coat, I decided not to worry about wrinkles from sitting down. Instead, I want to enjoy the natural creases that develop through wear.

I particularly like the volume across the back and the way the center vent falls straight without spreading open. The fabric also shows its character beautifully from this angle, shifting between navy and almost black depending on the light.

Thanks to the split raglan construction, the raglan character of the sleeves becomes much clearer when viewed from the back.

The raglan seams are finished with a hand-sewn ladder stitch, which provides a subtle degree of flexibility as the arms move.

Staincollar

Since the coat takes its name from the collar, the design of this area was especially important. Here is a closer look at its distinctive shape.

The standout detail is the tab, which is integrated seamlessly into the collar and cut as part of the same piece of fabric. I particularly like its trapezoidal shape.

The tab can be tucked and fastened beneath the collar. I really like the compact, relatively narrow spread of this collar shape.

This is how the trapezoidal tab is stored beneath the collar.

When the collar is turned up, the parallel rows of stitching underneath become visible.

I rarely wear the collar up like this, but I quite like the more rugged impression it creates.

Here the tab is fastened beneath the chin. It was shaped so that it sits comfortably around the jaw without feeling restrictive. I might look a little unusual walking around like this on an ordinary day, but I would certainly like to try it in heavy wind and rain -- perhaps the coat's most functional mode.

Impressions

So how does it feel to wear? In short: light, soft, and comfortable.

Cotton coats can sometimes give the impression of being heavier than wool or nylon ones. This coat, however, uses a lightweight fabric together with minimal internal structure and lining, so it feels light both when worn and when carried. After wearing it for some time, I came to appreciate just how easy it is to put on and take off, particularly when traveling by train or moving between indoor and outdoor spaces. It can also be folded relatively compactly and placed in a bag when necessary.

Much of the softness comes from the fabric itself. The Olmetex cotton used here is smooth and supple despite its dense construction, with a feel that almost reminds me of high-quality shirting fabric. It drapes naturally and moves comfortably with the body.

As for comfort, I feel it comes from the combination of the fabric and the tailoring. The coat is lightly constructed to make the most of the cotton fabric's character and breathability. Together with its lightness and flexibility, this makes it useful across a surprisingly wide range of temperatures. Personally, I wear it until around late May in spring, again from September in autumn, and during Japan's rainy season in June. While it is not designed as technical rainwear, I have also found its water-repellent fabric reassuring in light rain.

Owning this coat has deepened my appreciation for both bespoke tailoring and clothing itself. It already feels like a piece I would like to keep for a very long time. Whenever the temperature allowed, I found myself reaching for it almost every day. I have worn it on trips and business travel, and even seeing it hanging on a rack gives me a certain sense of satisfaction.

Why do I keep reaching for this coat? Comfort and versatility are certainly part of the reason. But perhaps what I enjoy most is watching it change with wear. If it were a garment that simply deteriorated as it aged, I might hesitate to use it so often. Instead, I feel that the wrinkles, fading, and other signs of wear gradually add character, much like they do with denim or leather shoes. That makes me want to wear it without being overly precious about it, even on days when the weather is uncertain.

I plan to continue caring for it while wearing it as much as possible. I am curious to see how it will look in five, ten, or even twenty years. This is a coat I would like to grow older with.