A Long-Awaited Bespoke Stainless Collar Coat: Part 2

Tomohiro Hayashi

The bespoke stainless collar coat I had been eagerly awaiting is finally complete! Normally, I would photograph it right after completion while it's still in pristine condition — but this time, I chose to wear it a few times first to let it settle in. As a result, I believe it's already showing some wonderful character. I hope you enjoy taking a look.

In Part 1, I shared the background behind ordering this bespoke stainless collar coat, along with its design details. In this second part, I'll talk about how the coat looks and feels when actually worn.

Silhouette

Worn open, the coat reveals a gentle A-line that flares slightly toward the hem. The length is long enough to completely cover the knees. The sleeves were tailored to be as long as possible, accounting for future shrinkage or adjustments from wear at the cuffs.

The carefully crafted split raglan sleeves appear set-in from the front. To keep the look from becoming too dressy, the shoulders are intentionally wide and slightly dropped.

When buttoned, the coat has a very clean appearance thanks to the fly front that conceals the buttons.

This silhouette is exactly what I had envisioned. The tailoring creates an A-line effect both front and back -- fitting around the chest and gently flaring toward the hem.

When worn open, the coat takes on even more volume. On sunny days, I enjoy letting the hem catch the breeze with the buttons undone.

I love how the sleeves bunch up when I put my hands in the pockets. I had them made intentionally wide for this effect.

A rare trapezoidal tab, designed to match the collar tab introduced later. It's originally meant to tighten the cuff to block out rain and wind.

With hand-sewn stitching and buttonholes, paired with replica military plastic buttons, the cuff design makes a strong impression.

Back View

The back is intentionally simple. Key points are the drape and the hand-stitched center seam. For this coat, I've decided not to worry about wrinkles from sitting -- I welcome the natural creases that come with wear.

The volume across the back, and the way the center vent drops straight without opening -- it all looks perfect from behind. The fabric also shows beautifully: it shifts from navy to black depending on the light, offering a rich and expressive tone.

Thanks to the split raglan construction, the back clearly shows raglan sleeve styling.

The raglan seams are hand-stitched in a "ladder stitch" technique, allowing for natural stretch and movement that follows the arms' motion.

Stainless Collar

Since the coat is named after the collar, the collar design is especially important. Here's a look at its unique shape.

The standout feature is the tab -- seamlessly integrated into the collar and crafted from a single piece of fabric. The trapezoidal shape adds charm.

The tab can be tucked and fastened under the collar. I really love the compact, narrow spread of this collar design.

Here's how the trapezoidal tab is stored under the collar.

When the collar is popped up, you can see the rail stitching underneath.

While I rarely wear the collar up like this, I quite like the rugged look it gives.

The tab fastened under the chin -- it's tailored so the jaw fits comfortably without feeling tight. It might look a little suspicious walking around like this on a normal day, but I'd love to try it in heavy rain and wind -- its most heroic mode!

Impressions

So how does it feel to wear? In short: "light, soft, and comfortable."

Some may think cotton coats feel heavier than wool or nylon. But this one uses a lightweight, durable fabric, with minimal interfacing and lining, so it feels light both when worn and held. After using it for a while, I realized how easy it is to throw on and take off -- perfect for trains and shopping malls. It's compact enough to roll up and toss into a bag when needed.

The softness mostly comes from the fabric itself. The Olmetex cotton used here -- often called "luxury gabardine" -- is not only durable but also smooth and supple like high-end shirting fabric. It drapes beautifully and moves effortlessly with the body.

As for comfort, it's a synergy between the fabric and tailoring. This bespoke coat is unstructured to make the most of the cotton's breathability, keeping humidity out. Combined with its lightness and flexibility, I find it wearable through all but the peak of summer. Personally, I'll wear it through late May in spring, and again from September in autumn -- and during Japan's rainy season in June. It may not repel water like Gore-Tex, but it never lets rain soak through completely.

Owning this coat has deepened my love for bespoke tailoring and clothing itself. It truly feels like I've gained another lifelong companion. I wore it daily whenever the temperature allowed, and it's now second nature to reach for it -- just like slipping on sandals by the door. I've taken it on trips and business travel. Even seeing it hanging on a rack brings me comfort.

Why do I keep reaching for this coat? Yes, it's comfortable and versatile. But more than anything, I think it's the joy of watching it age. If it were the kind of garment that looked worse with wear, I might hesitate to use it. But this one only gets better as it breaks in -- like jeans or leather shoes. That's why I wear it proudly in the rain, and why I rely on it like a charm on unpredictable trips.

I'll continue to care for it while wearing it as much as I can. I wonder what it will look like in five, ten, twenty years. This is a coat I want to grow old with.