Bespoke Shoes: Full Brogue (Wingtip)

Tomohiro Hayashi

The bespoke shoes commissioned by Mr. S are now complete—a one-of-a-kind full brogue finished with Mr. Shirahama’s signature patina technique. We invite you to take a closer look.

Order Background

Mr. S had been considering ordering custom shoes as he could not find any ready-made shoes that fit his feet. By chance, during an internet search, he discovered that our store was hosting a YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER bespoke shoe trunk show, and promptly made a reservation.

Usually dressed in casual attire and mostly wearing sneakers, Mr. S wanted a pair of shoes he could wear for occasional outings, such as dinners, without appearing overly formal. Preferring footwear with more presence than basic designs, he chose the most decorative style of leather shoe--the wingtip (full brogue)--as the base design, paired with a special grain leather commissioned by Mr. Shirahama from the French tannery Annonay, and finished with a patina.

What is a Full Brogue (Wingtip)?

First, let's explain the term "brogue." A brogue refers to a low-cut shoe with decorative perforations.

Originally, these perforations were not merely decorative; they were a practical feature designed to improve breathability and drainage when walking in wet or marshy terrain. The toe cap, layered with an additional piece of leather, was intended to prevent water penetration. Around the 16th century, this functional yet visually appealing outdoor shoe, worn by the Celts in the Scottish region, caught the attention of the English. They adapted its design for hunting and other country pursuits, which led to its widespread use. Due to this origin, brogue shoes become increasingly sporty as the amount of perforation increases, making them more suited to casual wear than formal occasions.

Brogues are classified into three types--quarter brogue, semi brogue, and full brogue--based on the placement of perforations and the design of the toe cap. The pair I had made by Mr. Shirahama falls into the quarter brogue category. These feature a punched cap toe (perforations along the cap seam) but no medallion in the center of the cap, making them the most understated and relatively dressy style among brogues.

By contrast, a full brogue features extensive broguing across the shoe. As the name suggests, full brogues are synonymous with wingtips--the W-shaped "wing" design on the toe cap is a hallmark of this style. The other two types, semi brogue and full brogue, typically include a medallion (decorative perforations) on the cap, making them more casual than quarter brogues without medallions.

Given Mr. S's preference for a bold, casual look, the full brogue was the perfect choice.

The Finished Pair

Now, let us introduce the completed full brogue shoes.

A perfect balance of elegance and strength. The antique finish, flowing in an S-shape from the area near the little toe to the quarters on the left shoe, evokes the confident movements of Mr. Shirahama's hands during the finishing process.

The patina enhances the depth and shadows of the full brogue design. I had never realized that patina on grain leather could be this stunning.

A wingtip of perfect proportions, created through Mr. Shirahama's refined aesthetic sensibility.

The intricate medallion on the wingtip is arranged differently each time, ensuring no two pairs are ever the same.

The choice of a closed lacing system (balmoral) was intentional. I could gaze endlessly at the interplay between stitching and perforation.

Beautiful from every angle.

Soles so finely finished that one hesitates to wear them. The anti-slip grooves, individually carved using shards of glass, are breathtakingly beautiful.

A pleasing arrangement of nails. Attention to beauty extends to every corner.

Decorative nails to reinforce the toe. There's a certain sense of indulgence in wearing down such a beautiful sole--but that's exactly as it should be.

Delivery

The weather was perfect for the delivery day. After brief greetings, Mr. S tried them on immediately.

"In the best possible way, these exceeded my expectations!" he exclaimed. No wonder--the patina at the fitting stage had been lighter, with a cleaner finish. While working on the final patina, Mr. Shirahama decided that a slightly darker tone with a stronger antique effect would better complement Mr. S's usual wardrobe. The result was a perfect match, much to his delight.

Compared to smooth leather, it was uncertain how much depth patina could achieve on grain leather, but under sunlight, the result speaks for itself. The transparent gradation is a hallmark of patina work.

By darkening the toe and the perforated edges (perforations along the trims), the shoes gained a three-dimensional presence. Leaving the dark brown pigment unblended created a bold, powerful look.

The proportions of the wingtip, the toe shape, the shoe length--all perfectly balanced. Despite the bold design and leather choice, the overall harmony is remarkable.

The carefully adjusted closure achieved at the fitting stage was, of course, spot on.

Then came the delivery ritual--adding the first set of good creases. Starting with the right shoe, Mr. Shirahama positioned the foot precisely, lifted the heel, and worked in the creases.

This ensures no unwanted creases form later.

The same process for the left shoe.

The added creases gave the shoes even more character.

As you can see from the change in character just from adding creases, patina shoes develop personality quickly. We look forward to seeing how these evolve with wear and polishing. We hope Mr. S will cherish these expressive companions for years to come.

Mr. S was so pleased with the result that, upon delivery, he immediately commissioned his next pair--a pair of double monk boots in a special leather. We can't wait to share the finished result with you.