Bespoke Shoes: Full Brogue (Wingtip)

Tomohiro Hayashi

The bespoke shoes commissioned by Mr. S are now complete—a one-of-a-kind full brogue finished with Mr. Shirahama’s signature patina technique. We invite you to take a closer look.

Background of the Order

Mr. S had been considering ordering custom shoes because he could not find any ready-made shoes that fit his feet properly. By chance, while searching online, he discovered that our store was hosting a YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER bespoke shoe order event, and promptly made a reservation.

Mr. S usually dresses casually and often wears sneakers. He wanted a pair of shoes he could wear for occasional outings, such as dinners, without looking overly formal. Since he prefers footwear with more presence than very simple designs, he chose the most decorative style of leather shoe, the wingtip, or full brogue, as the base design. For the leather, he selected a special grained leather ordered by Mr. Shirahama from the French tannery Annonay, finished with patina.

What Is a Full Brogue, or Wingtip?

First, let me explain the term "brogue." A brogue refers to a low-cut shoe with decorative perforations.

Originally, these perforations were not purely decorative. They were practical details designed to improve breathability and drainage when walking across wet or marshy ground. The toe cap, layered with an additional piece of leather, was also intended to help prevent water from entering the shoe. Around the 16th century, this functional yet visually appealing outdoor shoe, worn by the Celts in Scotland, caught the attention of the English. The design was then adapted for hunting and other country pursuits, which helped it become more widely used. Because of this origin, brogue shoes tend to feel sportier and more casual as the amount of perforation increases.

Brogues are generally classified into three types: quarter brogue, semi brogue, and full brogue, based on the placement of the perforations and the design of the toe cap. The pair I had made by Mr. Shirahama falls into the quarter brogue category. Quarter brogues have perforations along the cap seam, but no medallion in the center of the toe cap, making them the most understated and relatively dressy style among brogues.

By contrast, a full brogue features extensive broguing throughout the shoe. As the name suggests, full brogues are also known as wingtips, with the W-shaped "wing" design on the toe cap being the defining feature. Semi brogues and full brogues typically include a medallion, or decorative perforations, on the toe cap, making them more casual than quarter brogues without a medallion.

Given Mr. S's preference for a bold and casual look, the full brogue was a very fitting choice.

The Finished Pair

Now, let me introduce the completed full brogue shoes.

A beautiful balance of elegance and strength. The antique finish, flowing in an S shape from the area near the little toe to the quarters on the left shoe, evokes the confident movement of Mr. Shirahama's hands during the finishing process.

The patina enhances the depth and shadow of the full brogue design. I had not realized that patina on grained leather could look this beautiful.

A wingtip with beautifully balanced proportions, created through Mr. Shirahama's refined aesthetic sense.

The intricate medallion on the wingtip is arranged differently each time, so no two pairs are ever exactly the same.

The choice of closed lacing, or Oxford style, was intentional. I could keep looking at the interplay between the stitching and perforations.

Beautiful from every angle.

The soles are finished so finely that one almost hesitates to wear them. The anti-slip grooves, individually carved using fragments of glass, are remarkably beautiful.

A pleasing arrangement of nails. The attention to beauty extends to every detail.

Decorative nails reinforce the toe. There is a certain sense of indulgence in wearing down such a beautiful sole, but that is exactly as it should be.

Delivery

The weather was perfect on the day of delivery. After a brief greeting, Mr. S tried them on immediately.

"In the best possible way, these exceeded my expectations," he said. That reaction was understandable. At the fitting stage, the patina had been lighter and cleaner in appearance. During the final finishing process, however, Mr. Shirahama decided that a slightly darker tone with a stronger antique effect would better suit Mr. S's usual wardrobe. The result matched him beautifully, and he was very pleased.

Compared with smooth leather, there was some uncertainty as to how much depth could be achieved with patina on grained leather. Under sunlight, however, the result speaks for itself. This transparent gradation is one of the hallmarks of patina work.

By darkening the toe and the brogued edges, the shoes gained a stronger three-dimensional presence. Leaving the dark brown pigment with some contrast created a bold and powerful look.

The proportions of the wingtip, the shape of the toe, and the overall length of the shoe are beautifully balanced. Despite the bold design and distinctive leather choice, the overall harmony is remarkable.

The carefully adjusted closure achieved at the fitting stage was, of course, excellent.

Then came the delivery ritual: adding the first proper creases. Starting with the right shoe, Mr. Shirahama positioned the foot precisely, lifted the heel, and worked in the creases.

This helps prevent unwanted creases from forming later.

The same process was done for the left shoe.

The added creases gave the shoes even more character.

As you can see from the change in character created simply by adding creases, patina shoes develop personality very quickly. We look forward to seeing how this pair evolves through wear and polishing. I hope Mr. S will enjoy these expressive companions for many years to come.

Mr. S was so pleased with the result that, at the time of delivery, he immediately commissioned his next pair: double monk boots in a special leather. We look forward to sharing the finished result with you.