Review of YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER Bespoke Shoes

Tomohiro Hayashi

YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER bespoke shoes are now complete. I’ve written my honest impressions based on seeing and wearing them in person. I hope you enjoy reading.

The bespoke shoes I commissioned from Mr. Yuki Shirahama of YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER have finally been completed. I've already worn them several times, and I'm sure many of our customers have seen them in-store. Nevertheless, I'd like to take this opportunity to share my impressions of the finished product.

The color I chose is a patinated dark brown. Rather than using dark brown leather from the outset, the process began with a lighter brown leather, from which the color was first stripped. Then, the patina was built up by layering the dye approximately four times to achieve a rich, deep brown. Unlike uniform dark brown, this shade has a remarkable depth and transparency, giving the impression of light penetrating the leather and revealing subtle variations in tone. No matter how long I look at them, I never tire of the view. As recommended by Mr. Shirahama, I'm truly glad I chose to try the unique patina offered by YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER.

This patina also offers significant functional benefits. Not only does it soften the leather and improve flexibility, but unlike surface-only patinas where color may easily fade, the dye penetrates deeply--ensuring the color remains vivid even after years of use. While traditional patina-finished shoes are often susceptible to water stains and not recommended for rainy days, Mr. Shirahama's patina repels water, making them wearable even in wet conditions. As beautiful as these shoes are, I can't say I'm eager to test them in the rain just yet (laughs), but for someone like me who wants to use them as a daily companion, this information is incredibly reassuring.

The toe shape is just right--not too round, not too pointed. It's neither a long nor short nose, striking a perfect balance. The overall form is incredibly appealing, and the proportions of the toe cap are flawless.

Hand-sewn welted construction. The stitching is fine and consistent--beautiful yet highly durable. A true marriage of form and function.

The details are remarkable--delicate stitching, refined broguing, strong bar tacks, and a beautifully grained leather surface. All the best qualities concentrated into one shoe.

Thanks to detailed measurements of the foot's thickness, the shoes are crafted with just the right amount of allowance. This creates a striking contrast between the vamp (the front section before the laces) and the eyelet section (where the laces tie). The eyelets securely hold the foot in place, preventing it from sliding forward, so even with minimal extra space, your toes won't feel cramped or painful.

Because my ankle bone sits low and tends to rub, the shoes were carefully scooped out in that area to avoid contact--an adjustment unique to the shape of my feet.

The heel is crafted without an outside counter (the reinforcement usually attached to the outer curve), resulting in a seamless one-piece heel. Just like with fine clothing, simplifying the design enhances the luxurious feel--and this heel is a perfect example.

The arch curves deeply--its inner contour is simply breathtaking.

Time to try them on!

Worn with a bespoke suit.

Incredible presence! And the comfort--amazing. There's a pleasant amount of room in the toe area, while the instep fits snugly. The shoes provide a secure hold without any unnecessary tightness.

The bone on the top of my foot tends to protrude, and with most shoes, by late afternoon it starts to throb and makes me want to loosen the laces. However, with these bespoke shoes from YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER, the upper is designed three-dimensionally to accommodate that bone, eliminating numbness even during long wear.

The gently lifted arch support feels fantastic. The arch of the shoe contours beautifully to the natural shape of my foot. It's not just about aesthetics--the arch supports the foot in place of the muscles, preventing fatigue even after long hours of wear.

This "low profile" appearance is a signature of hand-sewn welted shoes. Unlike Goodyear welted shoes, where the joint between the upper and the welt appears rounded, hand-welted shoes are stitched just beneath the edge of the upper. This gives a sleek look with no visible gap between the upper and the sole.

Even from the very first wear, the shoes form soft creases as I walk. When I return to a flat stance, the creases smooth out as if a wave has receded. The leather is remarkably soft and flexible. I've never worn shoes with leather this supple and refined. The bespoke shoes from YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER offer unmatched craftsmanship and material quality--there's simply no room for complaint. In fact, they're on such a different level from any shoes I've ever worn that it's difficult to compare. They may look like ordinary dress shoes, but they're truly something else.

Just like a suit, the overall balance of a shoe is crucial. During the fitting, Mr. Shirahama checked how the shoes would visually balance with the style of my suit and the taper of my trousers. Personally, I prefer not to make my feet look too large, and he achieved the perfect sizing. These shoes harmonize beautifully with my overall coordination.

The first bespoke pair I ordered from YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER turned out exactly as Mr. Shirahama promised: complete satisfaction from the very first pair.

<What I Loved>
・Utterly beautiful
・Outstanding comfort
・No fatigue
・A deep sense of satisfaction when worn
・Feels broken-in from day one
・Perfectly balanced with my wardrobe

<Minor Drawbacks>
・They're so precious I hesitate to wear them
・They demand equally refined clothing to match
・I find myself constantly thinking about the shoes while wearing them

Even after the photoshoot, I've worn them many times. With their high-quality leather and custom-made shoe trees carved from the last, the creases disappear like magic, keeping them in like-new condition.

As someone with slightly bowlegs, my weight tends to shift to the outside of my feet, which usually causes ankle rubbing and uneven heel wear. But with YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER's bespoke shoes, the weight distribution has been precisely calculated by Mr. Shirahama so that the pressure centers properly when stepping. My feet land with a stable axis, and the transition of weight is so smooth that I walk straight without even thinking about it. This experience made me realize that well-crafted shoes can improve not only the way you walk, but your posture as well. Honestly, I was stunned--almost scared--by how well they performed.

I still treasure the other dress shoes I've worn over the years, but these are on an entirely different level--they're practically in a category of their own. I've resolved to gradually build my collection one pair at a time. The price may feel daunting for a single pair, but once you wear them, the value becomes undeniable. For the future, I've come to believe that having one pair of truly perfect shoes is far better than owning five that don't quite fit.

If you have any questions about YUKI SHIRAHAMA BOTTIER, please use our Contact Form. For orders or in-person consultations, please make a request through our Reservation Form. We sincerely look forward to hearing from you.