Recommended Fabrics for Autumn/Winter 2020 Vol.5: "Fox Brothers"

At The Dressing Lab, our recommended fabric lineup has primarily featured Italian mills such as Caccioppoli and DRAPERS. However, we also carry a carefully curated selection of British fabrics. Among the most notable are DORMEUIL and, as featured in today's article, Fox Brothers.

Founded in 1772 in Somerset, in the west of England, Fox Brothers is a heritage mill with deep roots. Somerset, located near the port of Bristol, once flourished as a center of woolen textile production thanks to its convenient access to raw wool shipped from Australia. While the region has since declined, Fox Brothers continues to weave fabric in the same location to this day.

Fox Brothers' iconic fox trademark is well recognized, but the name actually originates from its founder, Mr. Thomas Fox. Since 2009, the brand has been led by Douglas Cordeaux--a celebrated well-dresser in his own right--who now carries the torch of tradition as CEO.

When one thinks of Fox Brothers, flannel inevitably comes to mind. Their flannel is considered the quintessential British flannel--so much so that the phrase "If it's not Fox flannel, it's not flannel" has famously been said, despite risking offense to other mills. In fact, Fox once held the trademark for the word "flannel" until around 1950.

Although Fox's flannel is made from carefully selected Australian Merino wool, it is not spun into extremely fine yarns like Super ○○'s, nor is it blended with cashmere. Despite being made from traditional wool, it ranks among the most luxurious flannels available. This is due to the painstaking methods used, which remain unchanged from the past. One traditional process includes beating the finished cloth with wooden hammers for six hours to achieve its distinctive texture. While both vintage and modern looms are employed, all fabrics are woven slowly to trap air and create a voluminous hand feel. This devotion to craft results in flannel that is firm yet soft and beautifully mottled--true Fox flannel, through and through.

Now, let us introduce the bunch books we offer at our store.

"VINTAGE FOX" Vintage Fox

One of Fox's greatest strengths lies in its extensive archives, which have been preserved since the 18th century. In the 2000s, the company faced a major financial crisis, but made a dramatic recovery under the leadership of its new CEO, Mr. Douglas Cordeaux. It is said that Mr. Cordeaux decided to take the helm after seeing the priceless archives stored at the Somerset mill and realizing their true value.

The "Vintage Fox" collection is a direct result of those historic archives. This special collection of 27 fabrics was selected from archive books dating back to the 1940s, offering a range that is both timeless and uniquely characteristic of Fox.
From richly colored solids with exquisite mottling to classic chalk stripes and a variety of checks perfect for both full suits and standalone jackets--the collection covers it all. In addition to staple greys and navies, earthy hues like brown and beige evoke a countryside feel that's both distinctively Fox and perfectly in tune with today's mood.

By the way, one reason Fox began producing flannel is believed to be the natural environment of Somerset, where the abundance of thorny plants demanded a durable fabric that could offer protection. The "Vintage Fox" collection carries with it the heritage of Fox and the spirit of Somerset's rugged landscape.

"FOX CITY" Fox City

If Vintage Fox represents Fox's deep-rooted heritage, then Fox City embodies the brand's modern identity while retaining its traditional essence. This plain-woven fabric weighs approximately 300g per meter, with no brushed surface or translucency, making it a versatile three-season fabric suitable for all but the hottest months. Beyond its colors and patterns, the intentionally matte texture is a standout feature that exudes understated elegance.

The dry, vintage-like texture and the smoky, mid-tone colors--so characteristic of Fox--are masterfully balanced. As durable and wrinkle-resistant as it looks, this fabric is perfect for travel suits or standalone trousers. Its ease of wear across three seasons makes it an incredibly practical addition to any wardrobe.

With over 250 years of heritage and the visionary leadership of Mr. Cordeaux, Fox Brothers is experiencing a remarkable resurgence. Curated under his direction, Fox's offerings are arguably more stylish than ever--despite their foundations remaining unchanged. In a time when suits are no longer mandatory uniforms, why not embrace the rich history, craftsmanship, and aesthetic sensibility of Fox fabrics in your next order? A garment made from Fox cloth will mold to your body, grow with wear, and surely become one you cherish for years to come.