TDL Bespoke Line: A Review of a Bespoke Jacket

We would like to introduce one of our customers' bespoke jackets. Let us take a closer look at the finished piece.

Mr. O's Bespoke Jacket - Completed Look

A three-button jacket with a three-roll-two stance. The flap pockets were intentionally designed as double-welt pockets. The overall balance is beautifully achieved.


This is where various grain directions converge--an area rich with subtle details.

A teardrop-shaped boutonnière hole. Discreet and beautifully refined.

The barchetta chest pocket features a restrained curve. The pattern matching is flawless, making the pocket blend seamlessly into the jacket--almost too perfect to pin a pocket square.

Three kissing buttons at the cuff.


The pattern alignment on the waist pockets is impeccable. Even the rounded corners of the flaps were carefully designed to complement the overall harmony.

The pocket follows the natural curve of the waist beautifully. While it may seem subtle, this detail is extremely important.

The relationship between the shoulder line and the gorge line is impeccable. This angle is simply irresistible.

For this special bespoke jacket, the client selected a fabric from FOX BROTHERS' "Vintage Fox" collection. This range revives carefully chosen archival designs in a modern context. The one-tone grey check flannel has a beautifully smoky nuance--distinctively Fox in character.

Fitting Session

The jacket was paired with grey trousers, which were made-to-measure and ordered additionally during the fitting stage. The tonal coordination creates an elegant and cohesive look.
This client pursues excellence in tailoring, while maintaining a strong preference for understatement. His ideal is "quality that does not draw attention, yet speaks for itself."

The opening of the front cut and the shaping of the waist--everything flows together in perfect proportion.

Despite the client's strong shoulders, the natural shoulder construction gives a soft impression. The line from the sleeve head to the chest is clean and free of excess.

The client has a pronounced forward shoulder posture, which can easily result in discomfort if not properly addressed. Comfort was a key focus--and when he tried it on, he smiled and said, "It feels light. It feels soft!" clearly delighted.

One of the distinctive features of our Bespoke Line is the two-panel construction without a side body panel. The dart running through to the hem subtly expresses this structure. The shape and width of the pocket flaps are, once again, perfectly balanced.

Since delivery, the client has visited us several times wearing the jacket--and each time, he enthusiastically tells us, "Bespoke jackets are simply the best!" He has already begun discussing his next commission, clearly becoming a true bespoke enthusiast.

Reflections on This Commission

Of course, one of the key strengths of bespoke tailoring lies in precise body corrections--such as forward shoulder adjustments--and the resulting comfort.
However, through this project, we were reminded that the true value of bespoke lies not only in fit, but also in the refined balance of every element: button placement, pocket positioning, front cut, and proportions--achieved through multiple fitting stages.
This sense of balance may not be immediately eye-catching, but it is what makes a garment truly timeless and worthy of long-term wear.

Another important takeaway is our ability to tailor not only the fit, but also the level of expression. This client sought subtlety rather than overt craftsmanship. While we used extensive handwork, we intentionally kept it understated.
Even within bespoke, every client seeks a different character--and the ability to adjust that nuance is one of bespoke tailoring's greatest appeals.

Ten clients, ten visions. We hope you enjoy our next bespoke review.