Bespoke Line: 1st Fitting Study Session

Recently, we had the pleasure of welcoming Mr. Kojima, the master tailor of our Bespoke Line, to our store. Alongside discussions regarding this season's bespoke trunk show, we also received an in-depth lecture on the first fitting process of our Bespoke Line. We would like to share the highlights of this experience with you.

The Difference Between MTM and Bespoke Measurement Methods

There are significant differences in both process and measurement methods between MTM (Made-to-Measure) and our Bespoke Line--even when tailoring a single suit.
With MTM, we first take the client's basic body measurements, then proceed with a fitting using a size sample (gauge garment) as a reference. The finished garment is typically completed within approximately one to one and a half months. At the time of delivery, a final fitting is conducted, and any necessary adjustments are made before completion.
In contrast, our Bespoke Line begins with far more detailed measurements during the first fitting. Based on these, a completely original pattern is drafted from scratch, followed by a basted fitting. The pattern is then revised, and an intermediate fitting is conducted, before proceeding to the final sewing stage and completion.

Purpose of the Lecture

Until now, for our Bespoke Line trunk shows held every few months, Mr. Kojima has personally conducted the first fittings for our clients. However, depending on timing, this sometimes resulted in extended lead times, or made it difficult for busy clients to attend the trunk show schedule.

With the aim of reducing inconvenience for our clients, we decided that I would master the first fitting process for the Bespoke Line, allowing us to accept bespoke orders at any time.

Additionally, by learning how bespoke garments are drafted directly from nude body measurements--rather than relying on gauge garments--we can further improve the accuracy of our MTM fitting process as well.

Contents of the Lecture

First, we began with a theoretical session. Using a dedicated bespoke measurement sheet, Mr. Kojima drew a simplified pattern diagram in my notebook, explaining exactly which parts of the body each technical term referred to.


We carefully reviewed what to measure, and how.

Mr. Kojima's explanations--backed by years of measuring, drafting, and verifying--were both highly persuasive and extremely easy to understand. The number of measurement points has been refined to the true essentials needed for pattern drafting.

Beyond simply learning how to measure, we also studied how each measurement translates into the pattern. Deepening my understanding of pattern drafting was particularly fascinating.

After covering the basics in theory, we moved on to practical measurement training. While I had previously assisted by recording measurements during bespoke orders, actually performing the measurements myself revealed many subtle nuances, including how much tension to apply with the tape.


Mr. Kojima first measured my nude body dimensions while explaining each point. (Normally this would be done over a shirt, but for demonstration purposes, I remained in my jacket.)

Our Bespoke Line uses a method known as the short-measurement system, taking approximately 20 precise nude measurements. Even this has been carefully curated to the minimum necessary points.

While some clients are surprised by this level of detail, compared to chest-based drafting systems, this method allows for a far more accurate and personalized pattern.

As I confirmed details with Mr. Kojima, I added notes to the measurement sheet. Incidentally, we were both wearing Drapers "Cotton Deluxe" Solaro in different colors that day--completely unplanned, which made us laugh.

Next, Mr. Kojima played the role of the client, and I measured his body.

We began by confirming the chest circumference and chest line, which serve as the primary reference point for jacket measurements. Maintaining horizontal accuracy is crucial.

Unlike MTM, bespoke involves many diagonal measurements. This allows us to understand the body's three-dimensional contours, including musculature and shoulder blade structure.

We also learned how to use shirt button placement as a reference to memorize the chest line height.

In addition to measuring, observing the client's posture, shoulder slope, balance, and natural stance is equally important. This observational skill is essential for both MTM and bespoke.

Here, we were measuring the trouser length. Trousers require fewer measurement points, but understanding pelvis angle and preferred waist position is critical.

After two rounds of practical training, Mr. Kojima reviewed my pattern notes. These will be carefully preserved as permanent reference materials.

After the lecture, we naturally transitioned into our usual fabric discussions--what to make next, seasonal recommendations, and so on.

Mr. Kojima's top recommendation: Drapers "Three Kings." The lightweight covert cloth is unique, but the gabardine's color depth and sheen are truly outstanding.

I inevitably gravitate toward earth tones like beige and khaki...

Having completed a Super 160's navy suit and now wearing a cotton solaro suit, my next targets are a linen suit and a cashmere Chesterfield coat. Bespoke evolves with every order--please look forward to our next creation.

After the Lecture

One of the most striking things Mr. Kojima said afterward was that "accurate measurements and perfect patterns alone are not absolute."
Some Neapolitan tailors even cut directly onto fabric without creating formal patterns--resulting in different outcomes each time. They believe that this is precisely what makes bespoke dramatic and alive.

Even Mr. Kojima himself never uses the same pattern twice, regardless of how successful a previous garment was.

While MTM values reproducibility, bespoke allows us to evolve, refine, and experiment with each piece--of course, always with the client's consent. This conversation made me fall even more deeply in love with bespoke.

Though one lecture does not make me a master, Mr. Kojima has given me his approval to conduct first fittings going forward. We will also apply this knowledge to further refine our MTM process.

After more than 15 years in bespoke tailoring, I still find endless opportunities to learn and improve. It is a lifelong pursuit--and one I embrace wholeheartedly.