2022 SS Recommended Fabrics Vol. 3: Jersey & Stretch Fabrics for Setup Suits

Tomohiro Hayashi

We are pleased to introduce a selection of jersey and stretch fabrics ideal for spring–summer setup orders. In addition to timeless solid options, this season’s lineup features an appealing range of new patterns. We invite you to explore the collection and hope you enjoy discovering the possibilities.

At The Dressing Lab, while we of course specialize in classic tailored suits and jackets, we also excel in creating sporty items--an area not commonly covered by traditional menswear tailoring salons. To differentiate these offerings from our classic Dress Line and Bespoke Line, we present them under a dedicated label: the Sports Line.

Among our Sports Line offerings, one of the most highly regarded items is the Easy Setup. Often referred to as a "setup suit," this style features a lightweight construction with minimal canvassing and lining compared to a traditional suit. It pairs effortlessly with knitwear, T-shirts, and sneakers, and is highly versatile--allowing the jacket and trousers to be worn together or separately with ease.

Unlike mass-market ready-to-wear setups, our Easy Setup offers an entirely different experience. As a made-to-order garment, it is tailored with the same level of precision as a classic suit--adjusting the fit and silhouette to your body and your preferences. For casual items, details such as jacket length, trouser length, and proportions that complement sneakers are crucial. With made-to-measure tailoring, these refinements are second nature.
Furthermore, our fabric lineup--curated specifically for tailor-made garments--offers a wide selection of colors and patterns, ensuring both durability and long-term wear. And because each piece is crafted in the same factory as our tailored suits, the result is a casual garment that still carries the refinement and presence of true tailoring.

This season, we are pleased to introduce our recommended spring-summer fabrics for Easy Setup suits, arranged by pattern category.

Houndstooth

Houndstooth is one of the most frequently requested patterns at our store. Technically a type of check pattern, it is called "chidori-goshi" (千鳥格子) in Japanese, as the shapes resemble flocks of small birds. In English, the jagged shapes are likened to a hound's tooth--hence "houndstooth."
While jersey fabrics used to be predominantly solid, the range of patterned options has expanded considerably in recent years for setups and jackets. Here are our top picks.

Dondi
Cotton-Silk Jersey

This luxurious jersey fabric is produced by Dondi in northern Italy. To be honest, we had not stocked this mill's fabrics before introducing Easy Setup orders--but it has now become indispensable. Founded in 1970 and currently part of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Dondi is renowned for supplying high-quality jersey fabrics.

This jersey consists of 64% cotton and 36% silk--an uncommon blend. With its silky hand, subtle sheen, and vibrant coloration, it exudes unmistakable refinement. It is our most popular material for Easy Sports Jackets at The Dressing Lab. Available in brown × white, black × white, and blue × navy.

Dondi
Cotton Jersey

A fine houndstooth pattern in 100% cotton jersey. Available in green, brown, and navy. Because of its subtle patterning, it can be worn almost like a solid. The soft handle of premium cotton jersey makes it ideal for an unlined jacket--easy to throw on over a T-shirt like a cardigan.

Vitale Barberis Canonico
Wool-Silk-Linen Jersey

From the ever-reliable Canonico comes this distinctive jersey fabric, blending wool, silk, and linen--the golden trio of spring-summer jacket materials. Available in brown, green, and blue, each with a soft, muted tone for an elegant impression. When paired with grey trousers or dress chinos, it creates a highly versatile business-casual jacket.

Seersucker

Seersucker originated in India in the 18th century as a soft flax fabric, later transitioning to cotton as the preferred fiber. The name derives from the Persian "seer" (milk) and "sucker" (sugar)--a charming linguistic detail. Fabrics are often compared to foods or wine, and seersucker is no exception. (It even brings to mind DRAPERS' "Salt & Pepper" tweed.) In Japan, it is known as "shijira-ori."
By varying warp tension, the finished fabric acquires a characteristic puckering and vertical texture. The raised surface reduces skin contact, allowing air to circulate--making it exceptionally comfortable in warm weather. Its natural crinkled texture also makes it resistant to wrinkles, eliminating the need for ironing. While traditionally woven in 100% cotton, modern variations now include stretch cotton and wool blends.

SUBALPINO
Cotton-Polyurethane-Nylon Stretch Seersucker

Subalpino, based in Biella, Italy, specializes in cotton fabrics. Their seersucker offers enhanced comfort with added stretch, and the color/pattern lineup--including wide-stripe and glen check--is perfectly aligned with today's styling trends.

Bold Stripe

Available in three colors. A full setup may be a bold choice, but as a standalone seersucker jacket, it is highly recommended. Its casual nature makes it easy to pair with T-shirts and denim--an ideal introduction to striped jackets.

Wide-Pitch Stripe

The stripes are so wide that only two white stripes appear within the bunch book sample. Yet the color palette is exceptional--available in grey, navy, and khaki. Ideal for a complete setup that can also be worn as separates.

Glen Check

This glen check is my personal favorite--I decided to place an order while photographing it. Available in blue-grey, blue, and brown. The slightly muted colors combined with the relaxed texture of seersucker create an outstanding balance. Pairing it with a washed shirt and knit tie would make for a wonderfully understated classic look.

Vitale Barberis Canonico
100% Wool Natural-Stretch Seersucker

Canonico's natural-stretch seersucker is made entirely of wool, offering a more refined appearance and excellent wrinkle resistance compared to cotton. Much like their well-received wool corduroy, this is quintessential Canonico--expressing sports fabrics through wool. Available in seven colors. The navy monotone at the bottom works beautifully for business, while the white-based stripe option is quintessentially seersucker.

Solids & Textured Weaves

Finally, we introduce our selection of solid and textured fabrics. A solid-colored setup is a wardrobe essential--easy to coordinate and suitable for nearly any setting. In addition to setups, drawstring trousers in these fabrics are also popular for summer.

Dondi
Cotton Jersey

This 100% cotton jersey resembles a hopsack weave and offers exceptional breathability. Available in white, light brown, blue, and black. Ideal for an unlined, unstructured jacket.

REDA
Reda Active
Super 120's Wool Jersey

When it comes to smooth wool jersey, Reda is unmatched. I myself enjoy wearing a double-breasted setup made from their greige wool jersey. Available in grey, blue, navy, and black. When tailored as a full setup, it delivers a refined yet relaxed "luxury casual" look. The mid-weight wool makes it suitable for all-season wear.

TG di FABIO
Wool-Linen-Cotton-Polyurethane

Founded in 1995, TG di Fabio is a young and innovative Italian mill, specializing in contemporary fabrics with refined casual appeal. This wool-linen-cotton blend has the look of stretch linen denim, making it ideal for setups as well as standalone jackets or trousers. Available in four colors.

Vitale Barberis Canonico
Super Sonic
Wool-Cotton Jersey

Canonico's wool-cotton jersey, often referred to as a meshed jersey, is the most open-air and breathable fabric among those introduced here. With 66% wool and 34% cotton, it combines wrinkle resistance, comfort, and breathability--an ideal spring-summer jacket fabric.
Perfect for those who love hopsack jackets but want a more casual, unfussy option they can throw on over a T-shirt. Available in light brown, sky blue, and navy. While slightly heavier, it also looks excellent with silver metal buttons for a blazer style, or shell buttons for a lighter impression.

We hope you enjoyed exploring our recommended spring-summer 2022 fabrics for setup suits. In addition to the fabrics introduced here, we always stock a curated selection of setup-appropriate materials, as featured on this page.

Many of our clients who try our Easy Setup for the first time return to reorder--thanks to its exceptional comfort and versatility. Once worn, it often becomes an essential part of their wardrobe rotation. I myself continue to reorder setup suits regularly. If you have yet to try one, we encourage you to start with a single set--one that will surely bring satisfaction. And of course, we warmly welcome returning orders as well.