Recommended Fabrics 2023SS Vol.3 – DRAPERS (Part 2): “PORTOFINO LINEN” & “BLAZON”

"PORTOFINO LINEN"

The DRAPERS bunch book composed exclusively of linen fabrics, "Portofino Linen," has been renewed.

"Portofino" refers to a small port town located in Liguria, northern Italy (the capital is Genoa). Its colorful and nostalgic townscape and harbor are said to have inspired the design of Tokyo DisneySea. Known as a luxurious summer resort that attracts celebrities from around the world, Portofino served as the inspiration for this refined linen collection by DRAPERS. The fabrics evoke a classic yet elegant resort style.

The Portofino Linen collection is composed of several qualities. Let's take a look at each one.

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"PLAIN" 260g

A beautifully lightweight plain-weave series available in a full spectrum of colors--from dark tones to vivid primaries. If you are looking for a clean, versatile linen jacket fabric, this is the perfect place to start. We recommend tailoring a shirt-jacket without lining or canvas, to be thrown casually over a knit or polo. It could even be washed intentionally for a relaxed, lived-in texture. This is a fabric meant to be worn soft, wrinkled, and full of character.

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"BLAZERS"

The blazer fabrics are offered in three distinct qualities. The first is "Drill," a substantial 350g twill with a denim-like character.

The second is "Herringbone," a lighter 280g option that impresses with its supple handle and the rich depth unique to herringbone weaves.

The third is the heavyweight 450g "3-Ply Hopsack." Made by twisting three linen yarns together and weaving them into a bold, open mesh structure, it delivers the robust presence one expects from DRAPERS, a house renowned for its hopsack fabrics such as "Montecarlo."

All three qualities have a substantial weight, making them ideal for creating a linen blazer that can be worn through spring, early summer, and autumn--leaving only the height of summer to lighter garments. The fabrics have enough structure to pair confidently with metal buttons. A double-breasted, six-button jacket with patch pockets immediately comes to mind. This is a fabric that promises aging, depth, and exceptional character.

DRILL

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HERRINGBONE

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3-Ply Hopsack

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"IRISH LINEN" 360g

Last but not least is the quintessential Irish Linen--this quality is suitable for suits. Unlike the softer jacket-weight linens introduced above, Irish Linen has a firmer, more structured handle, offering the durability needed for trousers. It is a material that grows increasingly supple and develops a beautiful hand the more it is worn.

With DRAPERS' refined color selection, this is a highly recommended option for anyone considering a linen suit.

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"BLAZON"

BLAZON is a special suiting collection woven entirely from carefully selected Super 150's Merino wool. Super 150's fibers are nearly as fine as cashmere, resulting in exceptional drape, a smooth hand, and an incredibly lightweight wearing experience.

While fine yarns can raise concerns regarding creasing and durability, DRAPERS addresses these points with precision. BLAZON is woven using two-ply yarns in both warp and weft, enhancing structure, improving press responsiveness, and offering excellent wrinkle recovery. This ensures that the fabric remains suitable for daily wear despite its luxurious fineness.

The range of patterns and colors is equally impressive. Classic British motifs interpreted through the DRAPERS aesthetic result in designs that strike the perfect balance--not too plain, yet never overly bold. Their mastery of accent colors in checks and stripes is remarkable.

From timeless herringbones and glen checks to wide-stripe suitings, the selection is irresistible. Below are some personally recommended highlights from the collection.

Checks

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Stripes

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Shadow Checks

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Micro Patterns

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Birdseye

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Herringbone

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If even one of these fabrics resonates with you, we would be delighted. At The Dressing Lab, we always keep the full DRAPERS collection available, and we warmly invite you to visit and explore the fabrics in person.

Photo Gallery

2023 SS Recommended Fabrics Vol. 2 — DRAPERS Part 1: “GOLDEN SELECTION” & “MONTECARLO” A Long-Awaited Bespoke Stainless Collar Coat: Part 1
Posted by Tomohiro Hayashi
Tomohiro Hayashi

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