Business and Leisure in Style: Bespoke Men's Cut-and-Sewn Tops for the Modern Gentleman

Tomohiro Hayashi

The long-awaited custom-made cut-and-sewn tops have finally debuted! With detailed sections such as "The Ultimate Cut-and-Sewn Fabric", "The Perfect Cut-and-Sewn Top for Jacket Styles, Only from a Custom Salon", "Specialized Sewing Techniques Known to Connoisseurs", and "Recommended Care Tips for Cut-and-Sewn Tops", this article is packed with valuable information. We invite you to take a look!

We are pleased to introduce our latest creation at The Dressing Lab: bespoke cut-and-sewn tops (T-shirts). Some may be surprised--"Custom T-shirts at a bespoke menswear salon?"--but this item was born from customer requests for a high-quality T-shirt that pairs well with a jacket or easy setup suit.

Initially, we considered naming it a "bespoke T-shirt," but after showing a sample of a mock-neck made with heavyweight fabric to our customers, many commented that it felt "more like a knit than a T-shirt." Inspired by this, we decided to call it a "cut-and-sewn"--a term that conveys a more elegant image than "T-shirt." Incidentally, "cut-and-sewn" is a Japanese-English term derived from "cut and sewn." It refers to garments made from knit fabrics (rather than woven fabrics like those used for dress shirts) that are cut and sewn together. T-shirts and polo shirts are types of cut-and-sewn garments, as are knit dresses and jersey pants. At our store, we use the term specifically for knit tops without buttons for easier understanding.

Our concept focuses on:

• Cut-and-sewn tops made with the ultimate fabrics for superior comfort and durability
• Dress-style cut-and-sewn tops designed to pair perfectly with jackets and easy setup suits, unique to a bespoke menswear salon
• Custom-tailored cut-and-sewn tops that fit each individual's physique and preferences, from "muscle fit" to "oversized silhouettes"
• Simple yet luxurious and distinctive cut-and-sewn tops crafted with the highest level of tailoring

While cut-and-sewn tops are familiar items available from fast fashion to premium brands, our bespoke approach infuses them with a unique level of refinement and distinction.

The Ultimate Cut-and-Sewn Fabric:
"Ultimate Pima"

The Dressing Lab's cut-and-sewn tops are crafted using "Ultimate Pima Cotton." Many may be hearing the name "Ultimate Pima" for the first time. It is a super-premium organic cotton, cultivated in the United States from the same plant variety as the world-renowned Sea Island Cotton grown in the West Indies of the Caribbean.

Let's take a moment to discuss cotton varieties and their qualities. In cotton, the longer the fiber, the higher the quality. Longer fibers produce fabrics that are smoother, less prone to pilling, and more comfortable to the touch. They also offer greater strength, allowing for the creation of thin yet highly durable fabrics. This principle is similar to wool and cashmere, other natural fibers.

Cotton is categorized by fiber length into short, medium, and long staple cottons. At the top of the ranking is "extra-long staple cotton," to which Ultimate Pima belongs. Extra-long staple cotton accounts for just 5% of all global cotton production. This grade refers to cotton fibers measuring 35mm or longer. Among them, the world's three most famous varieties are Supima from the United States, Giza from Egypt, and Xinjiang from China. You may be familiar with T-shirts made from Supima or Xinjiang cotton, or dress shirts crafted from Giza 45 cotton. In fact, all three varieties are selectively bred from Sea Island Cotton. Giza and Sea Island Cotton are also used in our bespoke dress shirts.

Let's compare Supima Cotton and Ultimate Pima Cotton. "Supima" is short for "Superior Pima," referring to high-quality Pima cotton grown in the U.S., named after the Pima Native American tribe or Pima County, Arizona. In contrast, "Ultimate Pima" means exactly that--Ultimate Pima. With an incredible fiber length of 38.7mm, Ultimate Pima surpasses not only organic cotton but all other extra-long staple cotton varieties, making its name truly fitting.

Despite its outstanding qualities, Ultimate Pima remains little known because of its limited production. It takes longer to harvest than regular cotton, and it is grown exclusively by a single contracted farm in New Mexico, USA. Naturally, its harvest volume is very low, making it extremely rare and expensive. Fabrics made from Ultimate Pima have a supple, cashmere-like hand feel, subtle luster, and a moderately dry touch. They become even softer with use, and thanks to the benefits of extra-long staple fibers, they are exceptionally durable despite being lightweight, allowing you to enjoy them for years as they develop character over time. It would not be an exaggeration to call it the ultimate cut-and-sewn fabric.

At The Dressing Lab, we have maximized the special qualities of Ultimate Pima to offer two fabric options: Lightweight and Heavyweight. We will explain the features and color variations of each later in this article.

Design and Details

At The Dressing Lab, our cut-and-sewn tops are thoughtfully designed to:
・Pair seamlessly under a jacket as an inner layer
・Look stylish and complete when worn alone as a top
This versatility allows our garments to adapt to any setting throughout the year. Let's dive into the specific features that set them apart.

Dress Cut-and-Sewn Tops
Perfectly Suited for Jackets

For a cut-and-sewn top appropriate for business casual, simplicity, high-quality appearance, and a clean finish are essential. However, simply layering a plain crewneck or V-neck top under a jacket does not automatically achieve an elegant business casual look. In fact, when pairing a jacket with a cut-and-sewn top, the most critical element is the "neckline."

Consider, for instance, an online meeting via Zoom. Since only the upper body--sometimes just the chest and above--appears on screen, how the neckline (the V-zone) looks becomes incredibly important. Whether your top appears like casual loungewear or polished business attire hinges entirely on the appearance of the neckline.

・Loose ＜ Fitted

・Low ＜ High

As these tendencies show, a neckline that fits snugly higher on the neck--a so-called "close-neck" style--is fundamental for a sophisticated dress cut-and-sewn top for adults. In contrast, tops with wide, open necklines like U-necks are not suitable for business scenes like online meetings, though they are excellent for creating a relaxed, casual impression in off-duty settings.
Since The Dressing Lab's cut-and-sewn tops are made-to-order, they can be customized to suit both dressy and casual occasions. For now, let's focus on options designed for an office-appropriate, dressier look.

Dress-like Neckline Variations

There are three main neckline designs for our cut-and-sewn tops: the Mock Neck, the Crew Neck, and the V-Neck. While these styles are familiar even in casual cut-and-sewn pieces, with a few thoughtful adjustments, they can take on a much more refined, dress-like appearance. Let's walk through the details that enhance their elegance.

Mock Neck

Once considered primarily for golf wear, the "Mock Neck" has now found acceptance in casual cut-and-sewn pieces as well. It is a familiar design at our shop through our cashmere knitwear, and is a detail that pairs exceptionally well with jackets.

The mock neck rises higher than the jacket collar, helping to prevent soiling and fulfilling the dress code principle that "the less skin is exposed, the dressier the appearance." For these reasons, the mock neck is regarded as the most refined of the neckline designs.

We offer customization for the height of the mock neck, with our basic recommendation being a substantial 5 cm. Additionally, by adjusting the neck fit according to each customer's measurements, we enhance the polished, tailored appearance.

Crew Neck

The crew neck remains the classic face of cut-and-sewn tops. For those who might find mock necks too reminiscent of golf wear, or prefer a cooler neckline in the summer, the crew neck is the ideal choice. But how does it truly perform when paired with a jacket?

The typical drawbacks of a standard crew neck are:
・The jacket collar directly touches the skin, leading to soiling and discomfort.
・It may appear too casual for business settings.
At The Dressing Lab, our dress-style crew necks have been carefully engineered to address these concerns.

First, addressing the issue of "jacket collar staining"--the areas where the jacket collar touches the body are typically around the sides and back of the neck. Our solutions include:
・A rib width of 3.0 cm for the neckline
・A straighter cut at the back neckline to increase height
These adjustments ensure that even a crew neck prevents direct contact between the jacket and the skin.

A side view of our dress crew neck top shows how the neckline is raised at the back to protect the collar area effectively.

Shown here with our Easy Sports Jacket, you can see how the dress crew neck is positioned neatly under the jacket collar.

The neckline rises higher than the top of the jacket collar, ensuring a cleaner appearance.

From the back, the cut-and-sewn neckline peeks out slightly above the jacket collar, demonstrating a thoughtful balance between comfort and elegance.

Moreover, to combat the concern that crew necks can appear too casual, we designed ours with a neckline that is 2 cm higher than usual, creating a close-fitting "tight neck" style. This results in a crew neck top that retains elegance and sophistication, making it perfectly suitable for work and refined outings.

V-Neck

Personally, I hadn't worn V-necks often before, but customer demand inspired us to create them. Like the crew neck, the larger the opening of a V-neck, the more casual it appears. For a V-neck that pairs well with jackets, we incorporated these design refinements:
・A shallow 3 cm V opening
・A straighter back cut to keep the jacket collar from touching the neck
・A narrow 1.3 cm rib width at the V-point for a more elegant finish

The gently contoured, shallow V-neckline offers a sleek and polished look, ideal for professional and refined impressions.

Dress-like Sleeve Designs

The sleeves of cut-and-sewn tops are categorized by their length. The main types are "Short Sleeves," "Long Sleeves," and "Three-Quarter Sleeves." For business casual purposes, either short sleeves or long sleeves are the most appropriate. Let's explore which lengths create the most refined appearance.

Long Sleeves

Long sleeves are the natural choice for pairing with jackets. Since they cover the wrist, they help minimize skin exposure, which enhances a dressy impression. However, sleeve length is critical. While we often recommend leaving 3-4 cm of drape in the sleeves of dress shirts for elegance, in the case of long-sleeve cut-and-sewn tops, excess sleeve length can create a casual look. For a dressier, office-appropriate finish, we recommend a sleeve length that stops right at the base of the thumb.

Additionally, there are three options for long sleeve cuffs:
① Ribbed
② Triple-fold stitched
③ Fabric-matched cuff
In terms of formality, ①<②＜③ -- the fabric-matched cuff offers the most refined appearance.

Our "Long-Sleeve Dress Cut-and-Sewn" tops feature 5.0 cm wide fabric-matched cuffs, similar in appearance to high-gauge knitwear, resulting in a highly polished long-sleeve look.

Short Sleeves

While long sleeves work well under jackets, many prefer short sleeves for a lighter feel in hotter seasons. The shorter the sleeve, the more casual (or sporty) the impression. Therefore, for a dress-like short-sleeve cut-and-sewn top, a slightly longer sleeve length is recommended. Also, for a smoother fit under a jacket's armhole, longer and narrower sleeves are ideal.

At The Dressing Lab, when proposing dress short sleeves to pair with jackets, we recommend sleeves that are 2-3 cm longer and narrower than those of typical casual T-shirts. This approach enhances the refined appearance and ensures a balanced fit under jackets.

That said, overly long sleeves can look awkward if they cover the elbows. Thus, we tailor sleeve length according to each customer's arm length. Slightly longer short sleeves offer a classic impression similar to short-sleeved knitwear. Even when worn alone without a jacket, longer sleeves project a more elegant look compared to standard short-sleeved T-shirts.

Perfectly Tailored for You: Cut-and-Sewn Tops That Match Your Physique and Style

Until now, we've focused on designs and sizing for "dress cut-and-sewn" pieces suitable for smart casual styles. Another hallmark of The Dressing Lab's offerings is the ability to create adult cut-and-sewn tops meticulously tailored to each individual's physique and preferences--a true advantage of made-to-order craftsmanship.

If you are someone who trains and wants to accentuate muscles like the biceps or pectorals, we can tailor the fit to enhance those features. If you're concerned about your midsection, we can adjust the body width for a flattering silhouette that highlights the shoulders and chest. Unlike ready-made garments, our made-to-order cut-and-sewn tops provide a perfect, customized fit. Even if you've tried highly ranked cut-and-sewn pieces before and found that "something feels slightly off," we encourage you to experience the difference that made-to-order tailoring can offer. Let's explore how we achieve this personalized fit in more detail.

・Tight Fit vs Relaxed Fit Necklines: Adjustable Neck Sizes

As mentioned earlier regarding dress-like neck designs, the fit around the neckline is crucial. The general rule is: for dress cut-and-sewn tops suitable for business scenes, a tighter neckline is ideal, while for relaxed settings such as resort wear or loungewear, a more open neckline is preferred. However, what if you have a particularly slim or thick neck? For slim individuals where matching the shoulder width would cause the neckline to be too loose, we can tighten the neckline in 1 cm increments for a snug, polished fit. Conversely, if you want to wear a mock neck stylishly but find standard sizing too tight around a thicker neck, we can loosen the neckline by 1 cm increments, creating a perfect mock neck that fits comfortably without feeling constrictive.

・Adjustable Shoulder Width, Body Width, and Sleeve Width

At The Dressing Lab, we not only offer adjustments for sleeve and body length but also "shoulder width," "body width (waist)," and "sleeve width." This ensures that we can tailor a cut-and-sewn top that fits perfectly and enhances any body type. If you wish to emphasize a more athletic silhouette, we can slightly narrow the shoulders and sleeves to highlight the chest and arms. If you prefer not to appear overly slim, we can deliberately add a bit of ease to the shoulder and body width. For those concerned about their midsection, we can maintain a sharp fit around the shoulders and arms while gently expanding the body width around the waistline to achieve a flattering and smart appearance.

・Muscle-Fit Cut-and-Sewn Tops to Highlight a Trained Physique

At the request of customers who train seriously at the gym, we developed a specific fitting style to enhance athletic body lines. First, shoulder width: while a standard dress cut-and-sewn top is tailored to just fit the shoulders, a muscle-fit cut-and-sewn top has the shoulder width adjusted 1-2 cm narrower, allowing the sleeve to sit higher on the shoulder. This adjustment emphasizes the developed shoulders and arms.

Sleeve length is another important element. While dress cut-and-sewn tops usually have sleeves that are 2-3 cm longer to reach around the upper elbow, muscle-fit tops are designed to have sleeves 2-3 cm shorter, ending right at the peak of the biceps ("the flexed muscle") for a more powerful impression.

However, this is not simply about making a smaller size. The body width remains comfortably loose enough to ensure a refined, sporty, yet elegant silhouette, without the top feeling uncomfortably tight or emphasizing the midsection unnecessarily.

・Relaxed, Fashionable Big Silhouette Cut-and-Sewn Tops

Big silhouette (oversized) cut-and-sewn tops create a relaxed, stylish vibe. While I personally love the look, getting the sizing wrong can make it seem like you're simply wearing an ill-fitting T-shirt. At The Dressing Lab, we can custom-order your ideal big silhouette top. For a properly balanced oversized look, we suggest increasing the shoulder width by 2-3 cm and the sleeve width by 1-2 cm compared to your standard size. The sleeve length should be slightly longer but not cover the elbows. While the shoulder and body widths are generous, the body length is kept neat, falling about 2 cm below the top of the hips, to avoid a sloppy impression.

You can pair this top with skinny pants for a sleek contrast or match it with wide trousers for a cohesive oversized style. Either approach works beautifully.

Two Fabric Weights and Five Color Variations Unique to Custom-Made Cut-and-Sewn Tops

While size is important, fabric thickness--whether lightweight or heavyweight--and color compatibility with your existing wardrobe are also key considerations. At The Dressing Lab, we offer two fabric weights and five color options to match your specific needs.

Lightweight

Our main fabric choice for cut-and-sewn tops: a lightweight material crafted from Ultimate Pima cotton that retains exceptional strength. The texture is luxuriously soft and fluid--so lightweight you might forget you're wearing it. Thanks to its lightness, it can be comfortably layered under knits or sweatshirts, and is also perfect for warmer seasons.

Color options include White, Black, Navy, Gray, and Khaki. All are basic, refined shades that integrate seamlessly into any wardrobe.

Heavyweight

Crafted using ample amounts of Ultimate Pima cotton, this densely knit heavyweight fabric is truly special. At first glance, it may resemble sweatshirt material, but the reverse side reveals the difference. While sweatshirts typically have a fleece interior (known as "pile knitting"), our heavyweight cut-and-sewn fabric has a smooth finish both inside and out, allowing it to be worn comfortably across all seasons.

Compared to wool, it feels like a fine Super 150's yarn densely woven into luxurious cloth. The hand-feel is plump and supple, with a unique luster and glide. Although it feels substantial when held, when worn, it feels surprisingly light--much like a high-quality, high-gauge knit--offering a comfortably enveloping sensation without any heaviness. It also resists transparency and sweat stains, making it ideal for those who want to wear white cut-and-sewn tops confidently or prefer garments that can handle perspiration well. Though cut-and-sewn items are often associated with spring and summer, the heavyweight version is equally suitable for autumn and winter wear thanks to its fabric volume--and because it's not fleece-backed, it remains surprisingly comfortable even in summer.

The heavyweight line comes in White and Black--both timeless options. Customers often comment that it feels like wearing an elegant cotton knit. Indeed, it's the perfect fabric for a refined "dress cut-and-sewn" look. Once you try it, you'll likely want both colors. The fabric's robustness also makes it ideal for mock neck designs, where durability and shape retention around the neckline are essential for maintaining a polished appearance throughout the day.

Achieving a Refined and Commanding Presence Through Simple, High-Quality Craftsmanship

At The Dressing Lab, our cut-and-sewn tops are a pursuit of ultimate simplicity. Unlike conventional designs that typically have brand tags sewn into the neckline, we have intentionally omitted neck labels to maintain a clean appearance and eliminate the discomfort and potential visibility of neck tags. Instead, our branding is subtly placed near the hem on the left side.

The small, cream-colored label with gold lettering reflects The Dressing Lab's understated style and commitment to refinement.

Just as with suits and jackets, the simpler the item, the more crucial its quality and attention to detail. Our cut-and-sewn tops use the finest "Ultimate Pima" cotton, whose natural luster and smooth texture exude superior quality and a commanding presence. Moreover, our sewing techniques complement the fabric's excellence, achieving the highest standards possible for cut-and-sewn garments. Key elements that balance "durability" and "comfort" include:

① Tenchi Stitching

② Set-In Sleeves

③ Binder Necklines

Let's explore each one in detail.

① Delicate Finish with Exceptional Strength and Flexibility: "Tenchi Stitching"

On our cut-and-sewn tops, the sleeve cuffs and hems are finished with "Tenchi Stitching," where a single line of stitching creates a refined dotted appearance.

Cuff finished with Tenchi Stitching

In contrast, typical cut-and-sewn tops often use "double-needle stitching," with two lines of stitching.
Cuff finished with double-needle stitching

Although double-needle stitching is highly efficient for mass production, Tenchi Stitching offers greater tensile strength, flexibility, and even if a thread breaks, the stitching self-tightens to prevent further unraveling, making it exceptionally durable.

Hem finished with Tenchi Stitching

Hem finished with double-needle stitching

Moreover, Tenchi Stitching moves flexibly with the fabric, enhancing wearing comfort and longevity. Its delicate, less visible stitches lend a particularly elegant finish, unlike the more prominent lines of double-needle seams. Due to the extraordinary skill required, only a few master craftsmen in Japan are capable of executing Tenchi Stitching, making it a rare and precious technique today--especially prized among vintage reproduction T-shirts.

② Tailored for Superior Comfort: "Set-In Sleeves"

Attaching sleeves to a garment can be done two ways:
① Sewing flat, connecting the body and sleeves together in one go
② Creating tubular body and sleeve pieces separately, then attaching the sleeve to the body

The first method is faster and commonly used in mass-produced shirts and cut-and-sewn tops. However, the second method--known as "Set-In Sleeves"--requires higher skill but yields better fit and superior comfort by preserving garment structure.

Our cut-and-sewn tops, like our dress shirts, use Set-In Sleeves to maximize wearing comfort. While it's easier to spot in a dress shirt, you can identify it in our cut-and-sewn tops by observing the subtle misalignment between the body side seam and the sleeve seam.

A. Standard cut-and-sewn top (flat-sewn side seam)

B. The Dressing Lab cut-and-sewn top (set-in sleeves)

This method ensures a garment that moves gracefully with the wearer. We encourage you to experience this difference in comfort firsthand.

③ Flexible Yet Durable: "Binder Necklines"

Have you ever had a favorite crewneck T-shirt where the neckline eventually stretched out and lost its shape? To prevent this, we use the "Binder Neckline" method rather than the simpler "lockstitch attachment" technique.

While lockstitching is efficient, it leaves exposed seam allowances inside, which can cause discomfort and deformation over time. In contrast, Binder Necklines wrap the garment body with the rib fabric and double-stitch it, providing a smoother interior and preventing excessive stretching. This ensures lasting structure, better comfort, and a polished appearance--qualities you will appreciate after extended wear.

Combined with Tenchi Stitching and Set-In Sleeves, our attention to these finer details results in cut-and-sewn tops that, while simple at first glance, offer unmistakable quality and comfort that discerning eyes can recognize.

For Long-Term Enjoyment: Recommended Care for Your Cut-and-Sewn Top

Our garments feature the finest organic Ultimate Pima cotton, strengthened by Tenchi Stitching and Binder Neck construction for enduring wear. Proper care will further preserve their beauty and structure over time.

Here are the three essential points for maintaining your cut-and-sewn top:

Point ①: Turn inside out, fold, and place into a laundry net before washing.

Point ②: Use a neutral detergent and a gentle "delicate wash" cycle.

Point ③: Dry by folding over a hanger or drying pole, not from the neckline.

Let's look into each in more detail.

Point ①: Turn inside out, fold, and place into a laundry net.

Turning your garment inside out protects the surface from fading and abrasion. Folding and placing it in a net prevents distortion during washing and minimizes wrinkles, saving ironing time afterward.

Point ②: Use a neutral detergent and gentle cycle.

Neutral pH detergents are ideal because they clean gently without damaging fabric fibers or accelerating fading. Avoid alkaline detergents, bleach, or brighteners, which can deteriorate even strong cotton fabrics over time.

Point ③: Dry by folding over a hanger or drying pole.

Wet cut-and-sewn garments are heavy, and hanging them by the neck stretches the neckline and shoulders. We recommend "fold drying," where the body is folded over a hanger or pole to avoid stress on delicate areas.

For heavier garments, you can use two hangers to better distribute weight and ensure faster drying.

Once dry, be sure to fold and store your garment rather than hanging it to maintain its shape.

By following these care tips, you can ensure your custom-made cut-and-sewn top remains in beautiful condition for many years.

We hope this guide helps you appreciate and enjoy your custom cut-and-sewn top. Whether for business or refined casual occasions, The Dressing Lab's "Dress Cut-and-Sewn" collection is designed to elevate your style. Please feel free to contact us via the Contact Form for inquiries or use the Reservation Form to schedule a fitting. We look forward to assisting you.