A New Full-Canvas Suit Model Debuts: Introducing the “Gold Model”

Tomohiro Hayashi

A new model has joined our Dress Line collection. This design incorporates the house style of our highly acclaimed Bespoke Line and translates it into a refined factory-made offering. With its exceptional presence and comfort, it is sure to make you debate whether to order this new model or our existing classic one. In this article, we compare the two models in detail—please enjoy the full introduction.

The Dressing Lab's Dress Line now features an additional model. While our Sports Line focuses on casual, lightweight tailoring, the Dress Line showcases authentically structured, fully canvassed garments crafted with a classic approach to bespoke-inspired tailoring.

Until now, the Dress Line offered a single model for suits and jackets. Thanks to the strong support we have received since our founding, that model has earned an exceptional reputation, with many clients placing repeat orders.
Characterized by a dignified yet soft impression--never imposing--the pattern blends classic and modern sensibilities with remarkable balance. Its versatility makes it suitable for formal occasions as well as everyday wear, and we take great pride in how universally well-received it has been.

Allow us to share the background behind the creation of the new Dress Line model. In 2021, with the support of master tailor Mr. Kojima, we launched the Bespoke Line--our fully bespoke service. During its development, we intentionally designed a house style distinct from the existing Dress Line, with a slightly stronger, more expressive identity.
The style blends elements of Florentine and Neapolitan tailoring--a unique aesthetic not commonly found elsewhere, and one that has become a signature of The Dressing Lab. Its popularity encouraged us to translate that house style into a made-to-measure pattern, resulting in the new model introduced in this article.

With the addition of this new model, the Dress Line now consists of two distinct styles. We have therefore named them accordingly: the existing Dress Line becomes the "Silver Model," while the new style--derived from our bespoke house model--is called the "Gold Model." With that in mind, let us introduce the key features of the Gold Model.

Features of the Gold Model

The natural shoulder line and the rounded, deeply cut front opening are signature elements shared with the Silver Model. The major distinctions include:
・A broader shoulder width
・A lower gorge line compared to the Silver Model
・A more relaxed, intentionally softened waist shape

The collar's higher rise works in harmony with the unpadded, broader shoulder to create a visually elegant sloping-shoulder effect.
By softening the waist suppression, the Gold Model offers a more relaxed, unpretentious aesthetic--distinct from the sharp, refined silhouette of the Silver Model.

A larger collar and generously curved lapel provide a stable, well-balanced visual impact.

The curved sleeve-head seam--which flows from the broad shoulder toward the chest--and the gently slanted gorge line parallel to the shoulder are distinctive details inherited from the Bespoke Line's house style. They are some of our personal favorite design elements.

We incorporated a "slanted dart," often seen in Florentine tailoring. Both the Silver and Gold Models are constructed from a simple two-panel front-and-back body without side bodies. However, unlike the Silver Model--which creates a sharper waist through its front darts--the Gold Model introduces a slanted dart positioned closer to the back panel, resulting in a silhouette closer to a refined box shape.
This design lineage is said to originate from American sack suits, such as Brooks Brothers' iconic "No.1 Sack Suit," later interpreted by Italian sartoria. In both traditions, the key is to maintain a relaxed appearance while ensuring the garment still follows the body's natural contours.

Because the slanted dart hides beneath the sleeve, it appears almost invisible from the front--contributing further to the relaxed appearance. The minimal gap between sleeve and body also reveals the gently shaped silhouette.

Jacket

Here is the Gold Model worn in practice. This fabric is from Caccioppoli's 2022 collection--a wool, silk, and linen blend featuring a brown and indigo check that perfectly matches my personal taste.
A narrow printed tie with playful motifs, paired with a washed denim western shirt, adds a relaxed charm that harmonizes naturally with the Gold Model's laid-back character.
Footwear is my first pair of bespoke shoes by Yuki Shirahama. The brown patina semi-brogue strikes an ideal balance--dressy without being formal, and casual without being loose--perfect for this suit.

While the Silver Model emphasizes a clearly pronounced waist and slim tapered trousers--my usual preference--the Gold Model works best with a softer waist, wider sleeves, and fuller-cut tapered trousers for balance.

Although fastening the front button is standard when wearing a suit, the relaxed nature of the Gold Model makes it equally appealing to wear open, letting the tie move naturally. The lightweight structure contributes to the comfortable, easy feel.

The back view highlights the elevated collar and intentionally relaxed shoulder line, creating a beautifully rounded shape. The balanced hourglass flow from shoulder to waist to hip is also clearly visible.

Inherited from the Bespoke Line, the gently slanted sleeve-head seam--from the dropped shoulder toward the chest--is one of the most captivating design elements.

In checked fabrics, the grain flow becomes especially clear. Beyond its relaxed appearance, the jacket benefits from superb forward-shoulder shaping, achieving outstanding comfort around the shoulders.

Here is the slanted dart on patterned fabric. The double-welt hip pockets without flaps are a personal signature inspired by the Bespoke Line, though flap pockets or patch pockets are also available.

Compared to the Silver Model, the Gold Model features a lower, more gently curved gorge line. Despite its relaxed expression, the collar sits securely on the shoulder, offering a stable, dependable fit--no gaping, even when seated. The balance between relaxation and precision is exceptional.

The collar's lift--its "nobori"--is deliberately accentuated. The back width is also designed with extra ease. As tailor Kojima explains, a higher collar rise can visually enhance the appearance of sloped shoulders, even for clients who do not naturally have them. This effect is one of my favorites.

Trousers

The trousers--one might even call them "trousers" in the traditional English sense--carry the Gold Model's identity through the bottom half as well. A wide waistband, double pleats, a fuller tapered silhouette, and a shorter hem express my interpretation of relaxed classic style.
Naturally, clients may choose a standard waistband, belt loops or side adjusters, and different pleat options.

Seen from the side, the wide waistband provides exceptional stability--almost like a refined, well-structured cummerbund. The pleats offer just the right amount of volume.

Because of the fuller silhouette, the fit from hip to thigh becomes especially important. The pattern ensures a clean drape--neither pulling nor excessive--providing excellent comfort even for those with a fuller hip line.

The extended waistband section above the zipper is known as the "extension tab." This feature becomes standard with wide waistbands. The curved shape of the waistband is particularly distinctive.

The combination of extension tab, side adjusters, and pleats creates a rich expression while maintaining a cohesive look.

Even worn separately, the trousers carry a strong presence. They are a perfect choice for standalone orders, especially in spring and summer when jackets are often removed.

From the back, the high-rise created by the wide waistband is clear. A V-shaped slit is added at the center back. Together with the elevated hip line, the design even offers a flattering leg-lengthening effect--an important point for many of us!

Differences Between the Silver and Gold Models

We hope this introduction to the new Gold Model has been informative. Compared to the refined, sharp fit of the Silver Model, the Gold Model delivers a more expressive, relaxed silhouette. Choosing between the two depends entirely on your preference and the impression you wish to achieve with your garment.
For example, those seeking a suit with a cleanly shaped waist, precise shoulder fit, and slim trousers will find the Silver Model ideal. Conversely, clients who appreciate a relaxed yet elegant suit with slightly fuller trousers may find the Gold Model aligns perfectly with their taste.
It can also be enjoyable to choose between models based on fabric--opting for the Silver Model for sharper dark suits, and the Gold Model for flannel or other expressive seasonal cloths.

Aside from silhouette, another key difference lies in the fitting process. While the Silver Model is made without a basted fitting--using a gauge sample as a reference--the Gold Model includes a basted fitting after the first fitting before completion. Although this requires additional time, it allows clients to experience the full pleasure of the custom-tailoring process.

Clients who have already ordered suits or jackets in the Gold Model have shared exceptional feedback: "It feels effortlessly comfortable yet perfectly fitted," and "The higher rise trousers make my legs look longer while fitting beautifully." We invite you to try on our in-store samples, and hope you will experience the Gold Model's unique comfort and style for yourself.